Glacier Bay

Posted on June 15, 2013June 15, 2013 by Dusty Roads

This is the post I’m sure you’ve all been waiting for and I have so much for show and tell. Glacier Bay Cruising is a highlight of many, many cruise lines for their Alaska trips. I admit we were really looking forward to seeing it. Mendenhall Glacier had only served to whet our appetites for more.

Skagway to Glacier Bay 113 nautical miles 11.5 knots

The Island Princess entered Glacier Bay from Icy Strait named for the multitude of ice bergs the first explorers found floating here. The Island Princess was selling tickets to “The Sanctuary” an adult only area of the ship. The Sanctuary has padded lounge chairs, “Serenity Stewards” to wait on you, blankets and Mimosas all for only $60.00 per person. The Sanctuary is located across the aft end of the ship.

The misty, cold, gray weather that had followed us so far continued to be with us as we entered Glacier Bay. We decided not to spend the money for the Sanctuary because of the weather. Even with blankets it seemed like we’d be warmer if we could keep moving around the deck. We learned later that we missed out on seeing a close up view of a pod of Orcas that frolicked in the wake. Maybe next time I’ll make a different decision. It’s also important to mention here that although Alaska in the spring is known for its rainy weather, we were experiencing much colder, wetter weather than is the norm. Everyone says spring is running about 2 weeks late. Just our luck! 🙁 But that means that you shouldn’t be discouraged about a late May cruise…next year could be glorious sunshine.

The Island Princess arrived off Bartlett Cove, Glacier Bay around 6 am where they picked up National Park Rangers. They set up a table neat the Horizon Court on Deck 14 plus they made announcements on the PA describing what we were seeing as we slowly cruised the bay.

I say slowly cruised the bay because Island Princess was moving through an ice field of bergs and small ice floes.

These bergs are a good indication that the glaciers are actively calving. Most of the bergs were pretty small or at least looked that way from 150 ft. up. I wonder if the people on the Titanic said the same thing…Oh they’re just little ice bergs. 🙂

The ice didn’t just drift out of the way. We could hear the bergs hitting the hull before they drifted off or slid down the sides.

Once again I can say it was cold especially when we leaning on the railing to see around other passengers or to avoid the annoying blue windows.

The closer we got to the Margerie Glacier the more the anticipation grew. People didn’t pay any attention to the many smaller glaciers that we passed as we traveled further into the bay.

Gateway to the Klondike

Posted on June 11, 2013June 11, 2013 by Dusty Roads

The ship arrived in Skagway in the wee hours of the morning or maybe it was night.

It’s getting harder and harder to tell with the late sunsets and early sunrises the farther north we go.

Skagway is located at the northern tip of Alaska’s Inside Passage.

As we roused ourselves for the day’s adventures we looked out on a busy dock with a rock wall to hold the bank in place.

Above the rock wall on the boulders embedded in mountainside we saw logos and ship’s names painted. The story is that when a crew likes the captain they come ashore and paint the ship’s ID on the rocks, the higher and more dangerous, the more the captain is esteemed.

After breakfast, with the all clear to go ashore, we headed down to find the excursion bus that would take us to the White Pass and Yukon Railroad.

We needed our passports because this adventure would take us into the Klondike region of Canada.

The train would take us through the White Horse Pass. During the gold rush in 1896 there wasn’t a train. The stampeeders ( prospectors) had to either take the Chilkoot Trail which was shorter but steeper or the White Horse Pass that was longer but summited lower at 2885 ft. Both ways were challenging and deadly. The Canadian Mounties waited at Lake Bennett to check supplies. Anyone without enough to survive was turned back at the border.

I can assure you the train was much easier but even today it was easy to see the challenge. We passed huge gullies and mountainsides as the train wound its way to the summit.

We passed over trestle bridges and passed into and out of fog banks and clouds.

Water poured down the mountainsides in everything from torrents to trickles as the snow on the peaks began its spring melt.

Pretty soon we had reached the snowline but even though we were traveling through snow the water continued its downward path. At times we were so close to the mountain side that a foolish person could have reached out and touched the rocks as they flew by…and lost a hand or arm had they been so careless.

At times we could see across the “gulch” where another train ahead of us was already traveling upward or maybe returning downward.

We could see where we would soon be. More than any place else that we’d been, this train ride captured the true wildness of the Alaska mountains.

I admit, I stood in the cold outside the car in an attempt to capture some of the fantastic wilderness that surrounded us. My efforts fell far short of what we actually saw. The fog or clouds (depending on who you ask) only added to the drama of the ride.

Once we arrived at Lake Bennett we had to wait for the Canadian Customs Agents. We were told not to speak unless spoken to, to have our passports out and open and to NOT TAKE ANY PICTURES!

2 Agents boarded and made their way down the aisle. They never smiled. They were quite intimidating. The only time they spoke was to ask a foreign visitor for his visa as well as his passport. He had the visas for his whole family so they checked all of them then left the train.

The bus was waiting to take us to the next stop, a suspension bridge. Everyone headed to the lake to take pictures but the bus driver rounded us up with promises that we’d be back and we could take pictures then. He said we had a schedule to keep.

Next Stop, Skagway!

Posted on June 10, 2013June 10, 2013 by Dusty Roads

It was All Aboard at 8pm in Juneau as the Island Princess prepared to set sail shortly thereafter. It was getting lighter every night with sunset getting later and later as we traveled farther north.

Juneau to Skagway 99 nautical miles speed 10.8 knots

Before we leave Juneau behind a few tid-bits about the Capital of Alaska;

1. There are no roads into or out of Juneau. The only way to access the capital is by air or sea. If you have a need to visit the capital for Official Business then the state of Alaska will pay for your trip in and back out of the city.

2. Juneau is the 3rd largest City in Alaska in spite of it’s access problems.

3. The area of Juneau is larger than that of Rhode Island and Delaware individually and almost as large as the two states combined.

4. Downtown Juneau sits at sea level, with tides averaging 16 feet.

5. Juneau is the only U.S. state capital located on an international border. (Canada to the east)

So with that bit of trivia out of the way we will cast off and sail through the Upper Lynn Canal. By morning we will be safely moored in the Port of Skagway.

Skagway gets it’s name from the Tlingit people: ” a windy place with white caps on the water.” We have a very full day excursion in Skagway. We’re riding the rails on the White Pass & Yukon Railroad, visiting a suspension bridge, and ending with a “Garden Lunch”.

The Garden Lunch has me worried because I don’t eat Quiche and it sounds as though that might be the only option. We’ll just have to see.

SNOW PASSAGE

Posted on June 7, 2013June 7, 2013 by Dusty Roads

This post is out of order. I should have shared it before the Juneau post as it is about our sea time getting to Juneau but better late than never. I hope you enjoy it.

Ketchikan to Juneau 272 Nautical Miles speed 17.2 Knots

Once we left Ketchikan we set sail to reach Juneau, the capital of Alaska. Overnight we’ll sail through Frederick Sound, then transit Stephen’s Passage finally sailing north through Gastineau Channel into Juneau.

In the afternoon we attended another presentation by the Naturalist, this time about the Gold Rush years in Alaska. It was ok, something to do, if you will. Most of what he presented was taken straight from the internet including his slide show of vintage photos. What he did say that got my attention was that as we leave Ketchikan we’ll approach Snow Passage. Estimated time of arrival is 6:45 pm. According to him we will see whales and he said he would be there to narrate.

At 6:30pm bundled up against the cold, rainy weather, Sandy and I arrived on the top deck with binoculars and camera in hand.

It wasn’t long before one of the other guests spotted a pod of “something”. They moved fast and were only visible for a moment each time they leapt through the waves. Clearly not whales , they were some kind of porpoise. They were much smaller than dolphins but they were not intimidated by the ship, coming right along the port side. No chance for photos, but exciting just the same.

Then it was back to our cold vigil watching for spouts. It took about 15 minutes but we spotted one. We followed the periodic “blows” from the bow to the stern as the whale moved south to our north. We never got a good look at the animal but we were pretty sure it was a humpback. We hung out for another 15 – 20 minutes but didn’t see anything more. The naturalist never arrived either. (I guess somebody didn’t get the memo.) I just knew if we left the whales would show up but it was cold and we didn’t want to miss dinner so we wrapped up our “whale watch” heading back inside to warm up.

Dinner lasted until about 9:30. We skipped the show and chose a quiet after dinner drink at the Crooner’s Lounge where Dan Hodge, Piano Entertainer, sang classic tunes filling in the history and obscure facts between songs. It was low-key, relaxing and fun. Situated right above the atrium we could people watch 3 decks along with the glass elevators.

It was still pretty light out.

Sunset was getting later and later the farther north we traveled but we had an early morning excursion in Juneau so reluctantly we decided to turn in.

Thar She Blows!

Posted on June 4, 2013June 4, 2013 by Dusty Roads | 6 Comments

All hatches and windows “Battened down”, all passengers seated and secured and we were on our way to Point Retreat Lighthouse.

The first blow was spotted ahead and to the right around 2 o’clock but we were too far away to see the animal. The captain throttled back, Phil opened windows and we all spread out to watch for the next spout. He could be anywhere.

I was standing in the bow area and heard it before I saw it. Right behind me there was a loud whoosh. All of us in the bow jumped and whirled around. The whale was behind us now. Those aft were getting a clear view of the hump.

This whale was cruising along. We’d see his back hump then it would glide beneath the waves only to break the surface 5 or 10 minutes later in another place. It wasn’t diving deep as it wasn’t showing it’s flukes at all. Finally we didn’t see it anymore but the captain got a call about some more so we moved off to check out those sightings.

Not too much farther away we saw another whale surface and blow. This one didn’t hang around too long and we caught a little bit of fluke as it did a shallow dive.

We were running out of time. We still had to get back for the 2nd half of the excursion.

We headed back toward the lighthouse.

It was on our way back to the harbor anyway. As we again approached we saw other whale watching boats and there were more spouts.

They were really close to land this time.

Finally as the captain reluctantly told us it was time to head back we got a report of a mother and a calf. It was on our way so we kept our eyes peeled and were rewarded with a glimpse of 2 blows traveling close together. We didn’t have time to stick around 🙁 but at least we got a glimpse.

As we pulled back into our berth in the harbor I checked the pole where the eagle was perched when we left. It was still there! It was almost as if it was waiting for us to get back safely. As we were unloading I saw it take off, dip toward the water then soar away.