Category Archives: trains

Where the Wild Things Are

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As the train slowly pulled out of Whittier I realized that I had the wrong seat for photos. I had my back to the direction we were heading.

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The crew in our car introduced themselves. Our bartender was a snowbird from Florida who sells real estate for his full time job. There was also a car attendant to assist with drink orders, limited menu items and act  as tour director with narrations about the passing landscape. I liked her. An older woman, she had lots of personality and was very attentive.

Both were new at their jobs. They had completed the training together. This was the first run of the season. A “shakedown” trip for the whole team.

The Island Princess was a pretty sight as we got underway. It was a chance to really appreciate how huge she is.

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It was slow going as one would expect leaving a station but we didn’t gain any speed. Then we stopped. And waited, and waited. Finally the tour guide (I think her name was Lynn) got on the mike to explain the delay. Ahead was a tunnel that had been converted for both rail and auto but only 1 type of transport could use it at a time and right now there were cars in the tunnel so we had to wait.

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Eventually we were back on our way. Sandy’s seatmate went down to the platform where he spent a good part of the trip taking pictures to avoid the glare off the windows. I was seated on the inside and my seatmate wasn’t going anywhere, not even to use the restroom. I could have asked her to let me out but I wanted to photograph animals and so far I hadn’t seen any so I decided not to disturb her.

Lynn was telling everyone to keep their eyes open because this was a good opportunity to see moose and maybe a bear. Of course I was facing the wrong way and pressed in so tightly that I couldn’t move much. If we spotted any I would have to hope they were on my side of the train and not gone by the time the train went by them so that I could see them. I did have the camera out and ready just I case I got lucky.

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As the train passed Turnagain Arm of Cook Inlet we saw possibly 100 bald eagles. Many were sitting on the ice. Some were taking off and then landing again while others floated in the air. The sight was amazing but out of camera range especially through the glass. Eagles had become a pretty common sight since we’d been on the cruise but never in such numbers. I wanted to “turn again” to go closer for pictures. Of course being on the train made that out of the question.

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There were little towns along the route where we either slowed down as we passed through or stopped to either drop off or pick up supplies.

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As we rolled out of one town someone yelled  “Sheep!”. Sitting on an overhang above the train were several of the rare Dall Sheep. They looked like white dots of snow but when I looked through the binoculars they popped into view. That got my heart beating faster! Again, no photo op between the train’s movement, the thick glass of the dome car and the distance. Even the telephoto on my camera couldn’t do the job.

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It was only a couple of hours into our train ride so maybe we’d see something else. We were off to a good start.

All Aboard The Denali Express

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Bright and early we disembarked from the Island Princess for the last time. We passed through security checkpoints , under a plastic covered walkway right to the train.

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Our tickets had seat numbers but not seats like you might expect.  The numbers were really table numbers. When we first got on I thought it wasn’t too bad, even kind of cool. There was a table with a bench seat on either side. It wasn’t luxury but it would do. That was short lived because it turned out that there were 4 people to every table. That mean that unless you were about 12 years old it was going to be very cramped. It was a tighter fit than an airplane! To make matters worse we had to hold our carry-ons or put them under the table right where our feet were supposed to go.

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The brochure says “Princess Cruises exclusive Direct-to-the-Wilderness service allows you to step off your cruise ship in Whittier onto your unique Princess Alaska rail and arrive at your Princess wilderness lodge that same afternoon.”

I guess that was true. It was a short walk from the ship to the train. The 9 1/2 hour trip turned in an 11 hour trip but being in the land of the midnight sun, it was still daylight when we reached Denali.

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Another  brochure describes the trip like this: Our exclusive Alaska cruise ship-rail-lodge connection takes you straight to Denali National Park. While others are still in transit, you’ll be enjoying more time at one of our two Denali area lodges where fabulous Princess service meets the real Alaskan wilderness.

Well I don’t know if I agree with that. The cruise ship passengers that went to the lodge by bus got there before we did. It was more like we were the last to arrive.

The last quote I’m going to share is the best. Our luxury rail service direct to Denali will make all the difference in your Alaska cruise vacation. It’s one of the many reasons Princess Cruises is the leader in Alaska.

If that is luxury I’d hate to see “coach”. Sandy and I both love to take railroads whenever we can. Vintage sightseeing railroad trips are high on our list. When we put this trip together we insisted that we wanted to take the dome rail car to Denali. We were familiar with the dome cars on the Grand Canyon Railroad. This was nowhere near as nice as those. It would have been fine for a short trip but anything over a couple hours is cruel and unusual.

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The train is owned by Princess Lines. For the duration of the cruise and land tour you are always on or involved with Princess owned or operated properties so the deplorable conditions on the train came as a surprise after the opulence of the Island Princess.

I think it would have been fine if we’d had a little more room. The booths weren’t adequate for 4 adults.

Sandy didn’t say much about the crowded conditions but she tolerates people and crowds better than I do. Her issue was that we had a dome car for viewing but the dome windows were cracked!

They say you can never get a 2nd chance to make a great first impression. Denali Wilderness train didn’t make it. It was going to have to deliver some really special sights to redeem itself.

What about Skagway?

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Port of call # 3 is Skagway.  Skagway is billed as the Gateway to the Klondike; a place where “the romance and excitement of yesteryear linger around every street corner, every bend in the trail”. With that kind of build up it was pretty clear we’d have lots of excursions to choose from. We finally settled on a combo that includes The White Pass & Yukon Railroad and

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The Yukon suspension bridge , ending with a gourmet lunch. The official tour description follows.

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Travel aboard the White Pass & Yukon Route railroad, renowned as the “Scenic Railway of the World.” Against all odds this iron trail was forged through some of North America’s most rugged terrain. Relax in vintage railcars and marvel at the spectacular waterfalls, cliff-hanging turns, tunnels and historic sites you pass on your journey to the summit of the White Pass and beyond to Fraser, British Columbia.

Your trip continues by motorcoach as you travel just a few miles north en route to the Yukon Suspension Bridge. Some of the most magnificent scenery on earth greets you as you step outside, breathe the pristine air, and feel the thrilling sensation of a swaying walkway 57 feet above the churning rapids of the Tutshi River (pronounced TOO-shy). Observe Mother Nature in all her glory from the main platform, then walk through the museum-quality displays that detail the areas unique human and natural history.

Reboard your motorcoach for a scenic drive along the historic Klondike Highway. Discover the area’s amazing landscape from a different perspective as you return to Skagway. Along the way, your guide thrills you with stories of stampeders as you trace their footsteps along Brackett’s Wagon Road, Pitchfork Falls, Dead Horse Gulch and the infamous Tormented Valley. You’ll stop for photo opportunities along the way.

Continue your nature-filled tour to Jewell Gardens, site of pioneer Henry Clark’s family farm. The Clark farm grew produce for the thousands of miners on their way to Dawson City and the Klondike Gold Rush. Stroll the gardens and look for hand-blown glass, created on the premises, artfully placed among nature’s creations and the playful, G-Scale model railroad, built within a model town that looks a lot like Skagway did 100 years ago.

Considered the area’s premier organic flower and vegetable garden enjoy a gourmet lunch overlooking the spectacular blooms. You’ll savor a seasonal soup, organic garden greens and homemade quiche along with a freshly baked dessert. Many ingredients for your meal come from the edible landscape around you. Ample time is provided for you to browse the quaint gift shop before returning to your ship.

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The only problem I have with this tour is that I don’t like quiche. Who would have thought that in the heart of lumberjack country that the main course would be the food that earned the saying “real men don’t eat quiche”. I may not be a man but I haven’t met a quiche that I liked either! I hope the salad is good.