Category Archives: Wyoming

A little Slice of the Old West

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Jackson Cowboy Neon SignJackson Hole, a Little Valley with a Big Old West Feel

The Wild West comes alive in Jackson. Jackson is the biggest little town in Jackson Hole and the county seat of Teton County.  Jackson is the town, Jackson Hole is the Valley. My visit was in the fall, a shoulder season so many of the rootin’ tootin’ cowboy activities were done for the year. To embrace the Old West Days you need to plan a visit on Memorial Day weekend. Jackson kicks off the tourist season with a celebration of western heritage. Enjoy the Jackson Hole Rodeo and the Town Square Shoot Out.

First Stop the Visitor CenterFlat Creek in the Elk Sanctuary

I was nearing the end of my visit to Wyoming and other than driving through Jackson I had spent very little time there. I thought I should take a few hours and explore. My first stop was the Visitor Center. You’ll find the Visitor Center as you drive into Jackson from the Airport. It will be on your left. It’s a large building right next to Flat Creek. In fact, there’s a large observation deck out the back of the building that looks out over the marsh. A great place for bird watching. Outside by the entrance is a statue of an elk.

Elk Statue

Inside the Visitor Center

Elk Herd Diorama

Maybe Welcome Center is  more appropriate because the inside was warm and welcoming. To your left is a diorama of an elk herd. Follow their lead to the 2nd floor to view beautiful paintings and prints of the Jackson Hole area. Back down on the first floor is a large  gift shop with the usual T shirts, sweat shirts and key chains but the registers are manned by rangers and very knowledgeable locals. They have all the most recent information on animal sightings and maps. Needless to say, I did not leave empty handed!

The Elk Herd Has Arrived

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The Elk are moving!

The elk are starting to migrate to the sanctuary. This was one of the things I was hoping to see. Timing is everything. Too early in the fall and they won’t have formed a herd too late and the antlers will be dropping and they will already be in the sanctuary. So far I haven’t seen too many elk and  no large herd. The sanctuary has been empty.

Elk Bucks

Teton Village

After the bear encounter I headed back to the resort at Teton Village. As I approached one of the ranches on my right I caught a glimpse of something moving in the field. As soon as I had the chance I turned around. No one else had noticed anything. There were no cars pulled over. I thought I must be imagining things but there they were. The biggest herd of Elk I’d seen so far. The males were sporting beautiful antlers. The main herd was both females and younger elk. Maybe  survivors from this spring? Needless to say I was mesmerized. These are majestic animals and they are right near my resort!

The Bull and his harem

An Elk Photo Op

A pair of Bull elk

I pulled to the side of the road. My camera was already on the seat with my long lens attached. I could use the car as support for the heavy lens. I settled in to watch the scene unfold before me. It was quiet. The bulls milled around the females but there was no bugling. I’ve since been told that they only bugle before the herds form. Once the males have their harems they get quiet again. Only one other car pulled over as I watched. I had the herd to myself.

Time to move on

Elk Migration

The herd put on a good show before finally moving off. A female leading the way and the bulls pushing from behind. 40-50 animals all moving together. They started at a walk, moved up to a trot but never hit a full out run. Breathtaking! I’m told that the herd can number in the hundreds and by the time the sanctuary is full in the winter there are thousands but this was enough for today.

 

Where are the Bears and other Animals?

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wolf

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Looking for Wolves, Bears and Other Critters

The Hayden and Lamar Valleys are known for wolves, bears and Bison and Elk. I’d had enough of the bison for one day. The Lesser Falls is really right at the junction of the 2 huge valleys. Hayden Valley is to the south. I would be driving right through it to return to Jackson.

Hayden Valley

Hayden Valley Yellowstone

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I stopped at several lookouts. The gentle rolling hills spread out below me but I didn’t see anything. Maybe it was too early in the afternoon or maybe the animals were back in the trees. Whatever was going on I was just there at the wrong time.

Entering Grand Teton National Park

Grand Teton NP

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The rest of the drive out of Yellowstone was uneventful. I didn’t take the time for any more stops. There’s always tomorrow. As I approached the entrance to Grand teton National Park I saw cars overflowing the parking area. There were crowds of people lining the road and 2 rangers. My first thought was an accident but as I drove past it became clear something was in the woods. My curiosity got the better if me and I turned around. Wonder of wonders I found a a place to park in the lot! Camera in hand I headed for the crowd.

 

Where’s the bear?Grizzly

When I joined the fringe of the crowd I quickly learned there was a grizzly bear in the woods. The rangers were trying to keep the crowd a safe distance from the bear. At first I couldn’t see what everyone was looking at but finally the bear moved into sight. At first he paid no attention to all the gawkers. He just scratched around in the leaf litter. Then he seemed to notice the crowd. The rangers were pushing frantically to get the crowd back while the bear headed right toward us. That was my cue to head for the car. After my bison experience I wasn’t going to press my luck.

Overheard in the Crowd

Approaching Grizzly

One onlooker near me observed that he was going to stick it out when the bear started toward us. He said he didn’t have to be able to run fast. Just faster than the slowest person there. Well, I figured I was the slowest in that crowd so retreat was the best option for me.

One More Waterfall

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Lower Falls Yellowstone River

I’ve got one more Waterfall on my list of stops for this day.  Lower Falls on the Yellowstone River is known as the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. I need to warn you, I didn’t fall in or get chased down to the bottom by a bear , or go over them in a barrel. I’ve noticed that I get far more “likes” when something scary happens to me. Unfortunately this will be disappointing for my thrill seeking readers. Its just an absolutely beautiful waterfall.

Lower Yellowstone Falls

Norris to Canyon Junction

I’m saving Norris Basin for my next Yellowstone trip so as my friends in the white Navigator turned left I continued on toward Canyon Village. There were a few more critter jams. The bison were taking their time crossing the road. At one critter jam the wait was over 20 minutes. I couldn’t see what was going on but once we started moving it was apparent. It was a huge herd of bison.  At Canyon Junction I made a right and soon spotted the parking area for the Lower Falls. A boardwalk leads out to a platform known as Lookout Point.

Lower Falls on the Yellowstone River

Red Rock Point

I really need to get over my back injury because on my next trip the trail to Red Rock Point is on my bucket list. The trail is only about a mile round trip but it’s steep! And I mean very steep! The bottom of this trail is consider the best place to experience the Lower falls and to get the best photos. Sadly,  I definitely wasn’t up to that hike this trip.

Red Rock Point

Inspiration Point and The Upper Falls

Another reason to return is that I didn’t see the upper falls at all. The road to Inspiration Point was closed and I wasn’t even aware that there was a side road called North Rim Drive. From what I’ve heard since my trip this allows for close views of the upper falls. Lower falls is the more spectacular if you base this assumption on size alone.  The Upper falls drops 109 ft. Pretty impressive by eastern standards but Lower falls drops 308 ft! Yes, I definitely want to explore this area more next trip.

Lower falls throws up spray

Yellowstone Wildlife Adventure

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ChipmunkBeware of the Wildlife

Wildlife watching is one of the top reasons people visit Yellowstone. Its thrilling to see animals in their natural habitat instead of a zoo. In every visitor center there are warnings and videos reminding you to give the animals their space. At the Old Faithful Gift Shop there’s a book titled  Death in Yellowstone: Accidents and Foolhardiness in the First National Park. Have you ever seen the TV show called When Animals Attack? There’s a clip from Yellowstone showing a Bison tossing a tourist into a tree. That was being shown at the Old Faithful Visitor Center. Talk about a cautionary tale!

Watch the Wildlife from Inside Your car

As I followed the White Navigator toward Norris Junction the road narrowed to a single lane in each direction. To my right the mountainside dropped down the the road. There wasn’t much of a shoulder. My Gaperguide was chattering about the geography of the area. To my left the mountainside continued to drop off. As I rounded a curve the White Navigator came to an abrupt stop. I couldn’t see why. There was a pull off on the left side of the road. Suddenly the Navigator pulled across the oncoming lane into the pull off. Now I could see the problem. There were two Bison on the barely existent road shoulder. I didn’t dare pass them.  I was much too close as it was.

Bison right next to the road

Bison are Unpredictable! 

The bison were clearly getting agitated. In an attempt to give them more room and diffuse the situation I pulled into the same pull off as the Navigator. I could see a narrow bridge ahead with no room for car and bison.  As the bison moved closer the lead animal began huffing and shaking his big head. As the pair approached our cars they focused on my little Toyota. It was as if the Navigator wasn’t even there. The big guy in front started to cross the road toward my car.

Before the Charge

Almost the Next Chapter in Death In Yellowstone

I was trapped! I couldn’t go forward and there was a drop off to my left. My first thought was to wonder if my rental car was covered for damage by bison. My 2nd thought was that if that 1500 lb animal hit my car I was going over the edge. I wouldn’t have to worry about the rental car. I’d be another chapter in the Death in Yellowstone book!

Getting ready to pass by

A Close Call

Just as I was saying my goodbyes to this world, the Navigator took off. This gave me room to move my car forward. When I did it was like I’d waved a red flag! Heads down the agitated animals  charged my car and I didn’t wait around. I slammed that gas pedal to the floor and headed for the bridge with both bison stampeding after me. Once I crossed the bridge the bison gave up. Heart  hammering I was happy to put some distance between those bison and me!

Too Close for comfort