Tuzigoot National Monument

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Tuzigoot National Monument is the third leg of our journey to see the ancient ruins of the Verde Valley.

More Passport Stamps awaited me at the Visitor Center.  The Visitor Center has been undergoing renovations since November 2010. It looked like they are putting the finishing touches on the landscaping when we were there. Some facilities are available and there were rangers to offer advice and information. The restrooms were open. Have you noticed a trend? With all the water we were being encouraged to drink we took advantage of restrooms when ever they were available!

Anyway, we were now at Tuzigoot which means “crooked water” in Apache.

As you leave the visitor center a paved path leads off to your left. Follow that path and you will find yourself climbing a small hill. Located on this hill are the remains of a Pueblo village attributed to the Southern Sinagua. The site has been dated to around 1125 and was occupied until the early 1400’s when, like so many Sinagua sites in the area, it was abandoned.

The original pueblo was 2 stories high in places containing 77 ground floor rooms. Entry, like at Montezuma’s Castle was by way of ladders through the roof. Originally the village was a small cluster of rooms housing about 50 people but by the 1200’s the population had doubled and then shortly after doubled again as drought in the outlying areas sent refugees looking for food and shelter.

It was fascinating to climb among the ruins, amazing to think that there are any remains after all these years.

We climbed to the top of the ridge to very topmost ruin and looked out over the Verde Valley.

 In the west we could see the black slag pile in Clarkdale by the river. 

 If we looked very closely we could make out Jerome on the mountain side and Cottonwood.

 There is a flat area across from the ruins that used to be  where the tailings from  the smelter were deposited. In 2007 a few feet of soil was spread in this area and seeds from native vegetation scattered. In time it is hoped the area will recover boasting mesquite and creosote bush.

To the south you can see the Verde River crossing the end of the ridgeline and turning south recognizable from our train ride.

Views of the North and East are of the surrounding ridges and mountains. Not familiar with that side I can’t really tell you what we were looking at but you could certainly get a long view of the surrounding land.

We took our time wandering through the ruins but soon it was time to turn our thoughts to the evening tour. Not exactly “off roading”, we were taking a ride up Schnebly Hill Rd, Sedona at sunset. We had to met our guide and driver between 5 & 5:15. The tour starts at 5:30 so it’s time to get going if we want to be on time.

Castle in a Cliff

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After we left Montezuma’s Well, we got back on the interstate for another exit or two until we saw more signs. This time for Montezuma’s Castle. Both Montezuma’s Castle and Montezuma’s Well are National Park locations so I was able to collect park passport stamps at both locations. It was nice to have such well-marked parks. Often when I’m looking for a location the signs are vague or missing. These were right there in your face. No way to get lost! 🙂

As we were driving on the access road to the Castle parking lot a roadrunner crossed right in front of the car. Those little guys are fast! I could imagine the ” Beep-Beep”! As I was the designated driver there was no camera handy so Mr. Roadrunner escaped without a portrait.

The parking lot is paved and lined and in excellent condition. Once you park, your path takes you past the restrooms to the visitor center. The whole walkway is like a covered portico. The visitor center had a small gift shop and several rangers available to offer suggestions and answer questions.

Passing through the 2nd set of doors sets you on a shaded , paved path that is very easy walking. As you round the first bend in the path the Castle is right there in front of you. What an amazing sight! There is this huge adobe building clinging to the cliff face. The living area extends backward  into the cliff itself. This is the best preserved cliff dwelling in North America.

Unlike Montezuma’s Well, I had seen pictures of Montezuma’s Castle and even watched a documentary at one time so I thought I had an idea what to expect. Boy was I wrong. Nothing in my experience made me ready to see this building  clinging to the side of this cliff. It made me think of the nests swallows build that seem to just hang on the side of a cliff or barn. It is mind-boggling that these ancient people were able to accomplish this gravity defying feat.

The “castle” clings to a Verde Valley limestone cliff. The workmanship demonstrates the skill and tenacity of the Sinagua. They were very daring builders to put it mildly. Access to the dwelling would have been by ladder, with entry to the individual “apartments” through entry holes in the thatched roofs.

The building itself is  5 stories of stone and mortar that contained about 20 rooms and housed as many as 50 people. It’s precarious location perched as it is on the cliff, provided some protection from their marauding enemies. As you can see from the photo with the people at the base of the cliff, that structure is pretty far up there!

A natural overhang offered protection from the elements and provided shade from the hot desert sun. The ruins were so well-preserved when discovered that there were many artifacts still in the building. These artifacts supply archeologists with many clues about life at that time but it hasn’t answered the most burning question…Where did they go and why did they leave?

Farther up the path and still within sight of the “castle” there are more ruins. These were not as well-preserved as the main building, possibly because access was much easier. Built on the same pattern as the cliff dwelling most of the artifacts have been removed over the years by looters.

As the path turned back toward the visitor center leaving the ruins behind there is a small kiosk with an interactive display of what the cliff dwelling might have looked like in its hey day with the people performing the tasks and climbing the ladders in pursuit of their daily life.

The dwelling and the surrounding area has been a National Monument since 1906. Access to the dwelling has been denied since 1950 to preserve what remains of the site and to prevent further damage and looting.

The visitor center  includes a small museum with many of the tools used by the Sinagua to build the dwelling as well as other stone tools used for grinding grain, bone needles for sewing and ornaments. The Sinagua were talented artisans.

Over 350,000 people visit the monument annually. I am pleased to say I am one of them. A very interesting and worthwhile stop on our itinerary.

Montezuma’s Well

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Almost all of our tours are done. We have 1 more this after noon at 5pm, a sunset ride but for the most part our time is our own from this point on. So with the day open we decided to explore Montezuma’s Well.

I wasn’t at all sure what to expect. I just knew that I didn’t get a chance to go there on my last visit to Arizona and Sandy is very interested in Native American Culture so an ancient ruin seemed like a good way to spend some time.

Montezuma’s Well is easy to find. It’s clearly marked with large signs right off interstate 17. There are restrooms and a small ranger station next to the parking lot. The ranger was GREAT!. He was so out-going and friendly. He gave us lots of advice about what to look for on our walk. He obviously enjoys his job and is very good at it.

The trail to the “well” is paved and slopes slightly upward. The ranger told us to “drink plenty of water” ,the mantra of the desert , but even with the sun the walk wasn’t uncomfortable.

At the top the trail winds around a large pond of water. According to the literature it is the remains of a large limestone sinkhole. I expected a little stone well not this big hole filled with water! The sides are very steep and deep. Cave dwellings were visible in the walls of the well.

The water is warm but not from being in the desert. Apparently, what ever the source, the spring flows at a steady 76 degrees all year ’round. More than a million gallons of water a day flows continuously through this huge bowl in the desert floor creating a green oasis in the scrubby desert grassland.

A series of stone steps leads down to the water’s edge. The ranger said there were 100 steps. I didn’t count them but if it was 100 it was the easiest 100 I have ever walked.

 At the bottom the path winds through tall grasses and wildflowers until you enter a tree-shaded glen with the water on the left and a stone and cave style dwelling to your right. It was cool and hard to believe I was in a desert.

Sandy had opted to wait on top. While she was  waiting for me to take my little side trip she met some visitors from England that were bird watching. They were lucky enough to spot the Great Horned Owl that makes its home in the cliffs of the well. I, unfortunately, missed that. Still I am glad I explored the bottom.

Back on top and caught up with my sister we found the 2nd trail that the ranger had mentioned. I was able to convince Sandy to try this one. It was slightly steeper and narrower than the “100 step trail” but it was shorter. Only a couple of “landings” down and we turned a corner into a gorgeous glade.

 Huge Arizona Sycamores towered above us, water crest grew green in the stream along the base of the cliff and the water bubbles and gurgles where the well water empties into Beaver Creek. The foliage was so thick it gave a green cast to the light. It was just absolutely gorgeous, just as the ranger had said it would be. It was lovely and peaceful with the water gurgling close by. A perfect place to meditate or spend a day with a book. Still we couldn’t linger too long. there was  so much more that we wanted to see before our trip came to an end.

Back on top in the desert sun, we followed the trail back toward the parking lot.

 We hadn’t seen too much wildlife yet so when I saw one of the little lizards or geckos that seem to be everywhere I took a picture. It may not be much but it’s still wildlife. 🙂

One last note about Montezuma’s Well is that Montezuma was Aztec and the Aztec were never in Arizona. Apparently the early settlers to the area made the assumption that it was Montezuma’s doing and the name stuck. In fact the dwellings had been deserted for over 100 years before Montezuma was even born!

Well with that tidbit of information under our belts it was time to head over to the other misnamed site, Montezuma’s Castle.

Blazin’M Ranch

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Welcome to the Blazin’ M Ranch! This time the doors are open. Here we will enjoy a “Chuckwagon Supper” and a Live Western Show. I would hate to be attending a Dead Western Show…oh never mind!

The rain was back in an on again off again  fashion when we pulled into the parking lot. It picked up a bit as we claimed our tickets and got instructions on how to find our seats once the doors opened to the dining room/ auditorium. Until then we had about an hour to explore the replicated Western town.

There are 5 shops in this little town: a saloon, a winery an Olde Tyme Photo, a museum, and a mercantile shop filled with souvenirs, penny candy, cowboy hats and boots and more. You can also take a roping lesson or shoot a rifle at the Shootin’ Gallery.

We poked our heads into the Saloon first and there was a cowboy there I recognized from my first trip in ’08. Of course Sandy didn’t know who he was. I asked if I could get a picture of the two of them. Sandy had no idea what I was up to until after I took the picture. That was when I confirmed he was part of the show we were there to see. 🙂

My favorite shop is the museum which houses an extensive collection of miniatures, some of which are automated. They are just amazing to watch.

The grounds are attractive and neat except for a ton of the cardboard cut outs that you stand behind to have your picture taken by your friends.

As we strolled around the sun tried to come out again creating a mini rainbow right at the ridgeline.

 As  you can see by the signs there is quite a sense of humor on display already.

Since we weren’t going to drink in the Saloon or try to rope a mechanical cow or even try our hands in the shooting range, we headed into the big barn where the dinner and show will  take place.

 The barn is climate controlled and will seat up to 280 hungry cowboys (and cowgirls).

If you’re looking for a 5 star meal you have come to the wrong place. First everyone gets in a line based on where they are sitting. As you travel through the stations you are handed a tin plate then servers put the food on the plates and you walk back to your table.

Our menu consisted of some kind of cold corn salad…I only tried 1 bite and don’t really know what to say about it. It wasn’t bad but it wasn’t my cup of tea either. Next I tried the “Cowboy” baked beans.  I have had more flavor out of a can of beans from the supermarket. I think they forgot the molasses or something. Pretty poor fare so far.  The baby back ribs weren’t bad. They were fall off the bone tender and had some flavor. There was extra BBQ sauce on the table so I’d have to rate them a bit better. Next I tried the chicken and like the baby back ribs it wasn’t too bad and the extra BBQ sauce was there to help it along.

The roasted potatoes were pretty good. They were covered with cheese. Kind of made me think of cheesy potato skins. But the biscuits were the shining star of the meal. They were GREAT! I was just about to go begging for another one when a tall, tall cowboy came by flinging biscuits at anyone who asked for one. In the condiment basket in addition to the butter we found jam and packets of honey. Oh yeah Honey! We were now in heaven. There is nothing like a warm biscuit with butter and honey.

I would have been content with that but along came another cowboy with dessert. It was fruit cobbler (still warm ) and vanilla ice cream that was beginning to melt from the heat of the cobbler. That was pretty darn good too..although I will still vote for the biscuits as the number 1 food item. There was water, lemonade and coffee on the tables for beverages and the servers were quick to keep the pitchers filled up.

I tried for a shot of the stage before the lights went down. Do you see the Jackalope?

That prong horn was the only one we saw the whole trip!

The show is filled with old favorites (Happy Trails to you, Cool Water),  a Patsy Cline Set, a sing-a-long and the local bum/ clown for comedic effect. The surprise is that “Otis” can sing. Like the Jim Neighbor/ Gomer Pyle paradox, when Otis opens his mouth for a rendition of Tennessee Ernie Ford’s 16 Tons your mouth just hits the floor!

The show also features  our friend Jimmy from the Saloon earlier. He’s the lead guitarist but like George Harrison of  the Beatles, he is kind of quiet, letting his guitar do the talking for him even when he is featured in his large red sombrero performing a classic flamenco tune that had us clapping and stomping along.

Still my favorite moment of the whole evening, the reason I insisted we come back here again, was the finale. The song Ghost Riders on the Storm is a great classic anyway but the lights are down and the strobe light outside starts flashing calling our attention to the big windows along the side of the barn and there he is…the Ghost Rider on a racing, raging steed! It makes my pulse start racing just telling you about it. I love that part of the show!

Once the house lights came back up and the cast took their bows the crowd started to file out of the barn. The Ghost Rider and his trusty horse where available for pictures but since it was raining again we skipped that and headed right to the car. Time to head back to the condo in Sedona and decide on our destination for tomorrow. We’re on our own…only 1 tour booked and that’s not until 5 pm so we have lots of options!

Eagle Update

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UPDATE: Back in October of 2010 when this blog was still hosted by Blogger, I posted that an injured Bald Eagle had been spotted by the Verde Canyon Train Crew and rescued. The  Eagle was taken to a Wildlife Rehab Center in hopes of saving it and returning it to the wild. The train crew had noticed it’s mate keeping watch when they came to collect the injured bird. They hoped to be able to return it to the wild to reunite with its mate. Sadly the story did not end well. The rescued eagle was suffering from lead poisoning and did not recover. It is believed that the surviving eagle eventually found a new mate.

Eagles and condors both are subject to the risk of lead poisoning. Both birds tend to scavenge for food and sometimes the dead animals are ones that have been shot by lead bullets. As the birds eat the meat they ingest bits of lead from the bullets. If they eat enough of this tainted meat they develop lead poisoning and die.

There are bullets available that are not made of lead. Not being a hunter myself I can’t tell you what they are but I do know that there is a movement to encourage if not force the use of non lead  bullets when hunting near National Forests or other protected habitat.