The Arts and Crafts Trail

After the trip up the Space Needle and the Moonshine tasting I was ready to call it a day. I wasn’t sure where the trolley stop was on main street so I found myself walking back down the hill.

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Back at the Aquarium I decided to take one more ride before I went home. I settled on the yellow line which takes you around to the various artist studios and craft shops. Gatlinburg is very “big” on crafts.

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Gatlinburg’s craft  community is the largest group of independent artisans in  North America. This historic 8-mile loop has been designated a Tennessee Heritage Arts & Crafts Trail. Established in 1937, these artisans whittle, paint, sew, cast, weave and carve to create original collectibles such as candles, baskets, quilts, brooms, pottery,
jewelry, dolls, ceramics, scrimshaw, silver smithing, leather, stained glass, wearable fashions, fine photography, frameable art, oils, watercolors, and also lodging, restaurants, cafés, tea room, soda fountain and candy shops.

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Although the loop is only 8 miles it takes an hour to complete the loop on the trolley because there are so many stops.

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While riding along on this one we passed a covered bridge and farther along a beaver lodge. The driver insisted the lodge was occupied but the water was awful low and the lodge was in pretty poor repair. He admitted he hadn’t seen any beavers lately so my bet is on it being abandoned. It was still an interesting bit of scenery.

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Pulling back into the stop at the Aquarium the driver mentioned a herd of elk that he’s seen recently. I had to find out more. He said I’d find them in the Cataloochee. Almost as soon as he told me he backed off telling me it was too far to be bothered with and that I’d get lost and on and on. He really tried to discourage me which of course had the opposite effect.

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I’ve chased elk herds all over from Custer State Park in South Dakota to the lake country north of Sedona in Arizona and have ever seen a one. Maybe my luck is about to change!

Totem Poles

Don’t feel bad if someone tells you you’re “low man on the totem pole.” Often, the most important figure can be found at the base, not on the top, as many believe. (Taken from the Port Guide of the Island Princess)

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Ketchikan is home to the largest collection of totem poles in the world.

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They stand sprinkled throughout the city, at Totem Bight State Park and at Saxman Native Village.

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While we visited the Saxman Native Village we were invited to visit the carving shed, a large woodworking shop where totem poles and masks are carved by a master carver and his apprentices. Our interpreter joined us to give an explanation and answer questions.

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The scent of the freshly carved wood permeates the carving shed with its fresh, clean smell. While we were visiting we had a chance to see a totem pole that was recently commissioned by a family in California. The carvings on the pole represented a baker and a wine maker. A figure is carved for each branch of the family. It is still a work in progress . The carving is still done by hand in the old tradition.

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Nathan, the master carver, was in residence but could not be enticed to tell us the price tag on such a pole. His only comment was that “It was enough.” Nathan would not tell us how long it takes to carve a pole either. He is truly a man of few words.

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A totem pole can identify a clan and placed by the front door of their lodge can tell the history of the clan.

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Totem poles are erected for many reasons even to commemorate shameful events.
A potlatch was held in honor of Secretary of State Seward but when he did not reciprocate his ears and nose on his totem were painted red. A sign of disrespect. At one time his descendants asked how much it would cost to hold the potlatch now. When they were told the cost they decided to leave  the totem painted as is.

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