College Fjord

It’s the last day of cruising. We’re well on our way through the Gulf of Alaska and Prince William Sound .

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Glacier Bay to College Fjord         438 nautical miles               18.4 knots

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College Fjord contains the  largest collection of tidewater glaciers in the world each named after an east coast college or university.

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College Fjord is beautiful.  Sometimes a picture really is worth a thousand words.

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It seemed that we’d finally left the rain and clouds behind. The sun was bright, reflecting off the white  snow covered mountains.

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Once you enter the Fjord you will pass Holyoke, Barnard, Wellesley, Vassar, Bryn Mawr and Smith Glaciers on the port side. Harvard is at the head of the fjord.

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On the starboard side you’ll see Amherst, Lafayette and Yale.

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This is truly what you think of when you think of Alaska.

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The Story of Romeo

Ok I promised to tell you about Romeo so here it is.

This is the story of Romeo, the Mendenhall Glacier Wolf. I first heard it from our guide, Phil, but since then I have seen many children’s’ books. This version is condensed from The Alaska Cruise Companion.

Romeo’s story began one day in April 2003, when a young black wolf was struck and killed by a car within  1/4 mile of Mendenhall Visitor Center. Sad as this event was, park officials made the best of it  and retrieved the wolf so that at least  it could be prepared for display in the visitor’s center. They determined it was a female black wolf, which is a sub species of the gray wolf, and they also determined it was a young female. Young females will generally only leave a family pack with a new mate to start a family of their own, so park officials expected to see the mate in the area. Over the summer there was no sign but during the long, cold  winter nights of November that year, residents repeatedly heard howls of a lone wolf ringing across the wilderness of the lake.

The first sighting came shortly after the new year, in January 2004.  A local naturalist and author, Nick Jans , was skiing across  the Lake with his dog Dakota when he noticed a lone set of wolf tracks stretching across the lake. He took Dakota home and returned to the lake , and encountered the wolf for the first time.  It was alone and it was a young male black wolf.  A solitary wolf is unusual , especially in winter  when wolves typically regroup with their family packs  to ensure successful hunting, so when Jans reported the lone wolf sighting, wildlife officials presumed they had found the mate for the young female killed earlier in the year.

As the winter stretched on, the young wolf began to appear regularly  , even accompanying Jans and Dakota on their routings across the lake. The wolf would play with Dakota , just like any other dog might, and even took to following the duo home. There he waited outside  the house for the female lab to appear, leading to his nickname, Romeo. Unbelievably, this went on for many years. Romeo would disappear over the summer but return each winter once the visitors had left  and the lake was frozen over.

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The iconic appearance  of a lone black wolf against the dramatic backdrop of the snow-white lake was enough to draw attention on it’s own , but Romeo was also sociable, and other visitors to the lake had the same experience  as Jans and Dakota.  Romeo would appear and play with the pets even fetching tennis balls. He didn’t become a pet. No one tried to feed him or pet him but he quickly became a living legend in the region.

In 2009, the story took a sad turn. Romeo failed to reappear that fall and in fact was not seen or heard of again. Eventually a wolf pelt surfaced that was identified as Romeo’s, and in May 2010, two hunters were charged with illegally shooting the protected wolf.

Although Romeo is gone now he dispelled many misconceptions about wolves and in so doing has become a legend.

For more details Nick Jans has written a new book, Glacier Wolf, about his encounters with Romeo.

Mendenhall Glacier

Mendenhall Glacier is part of our tour package but for those who aren’t on a tour and wish to check it out there are regular shuttles that leave from Franklin Square  by the Mount Roberts tramway station.

Meanwhile back on our tour bus, Phil handed out Nature Valley Bars and bottled water as a snack before our hike to the glacier. The Mendenhall Glacier is one of 37 glaciers that flow down from the 1500 square mile ice field. The glacier  stretches  approximately  13.5 miles from the ice field right into the valley finally ending in Mendenhall Lake.

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The Glacier once covered the whole valley reaching it’s fullest extent around 300 years ago. Since then it has been in retreat. When Sandy and I planned out trip we joked we wanted to get to Alaska before the glaciers all melted. Scientists predict that Mendenhall Glacier won’t be visible from the Visitor Center  in another 40 years if it continues it’s current rate of retreat. Maybe our joke wasn’t such a joke after all.

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Meanwhile the retreating glacier often spawns large icebergs  that drift across the lake.

The area is known for it’s wildlife sightings as well as the glacier but today at mid-day we didn’t see much in the way of wildlife.

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At the edge of Mendenhall Lake is a beaver lodge but even the beaver were missing, maybe taking a siesta?

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We started our hike to the lake on an easy trail through more of the rain forest. Phil stopped often to point out different mosses and lichen.

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The trail opened out into more open, dryer land. Phil explained that the type of soil didn’t retain the water as well as the topsoil in the rainforest which resulted in the more sandy, open area. We could see  a waterfall churning it’s way down the mountains. At this time of year, spring, waterfalls are everywhere as the snow melt makes it’s way into the valleys. By summer these torrents will be little more than a trickle if they exist at all.

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While we waited for stragglers to catch up and enjoyed the sunshine, Phil told us the story of Romeo, the Glacier Wolf. I’ll share that with you in another post.

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With everyone together again, we started downhill to the shore of the lake and the glacier views we’d been looking for.

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Sure enough. the lake was filled with ice bergs.

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The glacier glowed blue in the shade of the mountain side.

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I am so glad the sun decided to come out today. They say the glacier is pretty in the rain but I find it hard to imagine it could be any prettier than it was today with the sun shining and the icebergs floating on the cold lake.

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