When a Screensaver Sends You Back to Hawaii

 


A Morning Memory Triggered by the Koʻolau Mountains

A Morning Spark

It’s amazing where inspiration comes from. I opened my computer this morning to a breathtaking image — an aerial view I recognized instantly. Those dramatic ridges could only belong to the Koʻolau Mountain Range on Oʻahu.

Yes, I know. You already know I love Hawaii. But here’s the twist: I’ve only been to Oʻahu once. My heart belongs first to the Big Island, then to Maui. Kauaʻi is still waiting for me.

Before I get to the mountains, here are my quick impressions of the four most‑visited islands.

My Take on the Four Big Islands

  • The Big Island — Kīlauea, volcanic energy, and Parker Ranch. My favorite.
  • Maui (The Valley Isle) — My nickname: #1 Tourist Stop. Lots to do, lots to see, and plenty of upscale accommodations.
  • Oʻahu (The Gathering Place) — Chaotic, urban, crowded. Great attractions, but one visit was enough for me. Pearl Harbor is a must.
  • Kauaʻi (The Garden Isle) — Said to be the most traditional and the most natural. I haven’t been yet, but everyone insists I’ll love it.

The Mountains That Look Carved by a Giant Hand

Back to that screensaver photo.
The Koʻolau Mountains run along the eastern edge of Oʻahu — the eroded remains of a single shield volcano. Thirty‑four miles of ridges and deep green troughs.

To me, it looks like a giant hand dragged its fingers down the mountainside, leaving those dramatic grooves behind. Once you see it, you never forget it.

The Wind, the Cliffs, and a Battle in the Clouds

My sister and I explored this area on our trip in 2007. We started at Nuʻuanu Pali, on the recommendation of our Pearl Harbor guide. I think he hoped we’d hire him to take us, but we couldn’t coordinate schedules, so off we went on our own.

“Pali” means cliff, and Nuʻuanu is the site of a brutal turning point in Hawaiian history. During his campaign to unite the islands, King Kamehameha I drove the opposing warriors up the cliffs until many fell — or were forced — over the edge. Storyboards at the lookout help visitors understand the gravity of what happened there.

From the windy heights of Nuʻuanu Pali, the view opens to a deep green valley and the rugged Koʻolau Mountains, with Honolulu and the shimmering coastline far beyond.

And the trade winds? They’re no joke. The same winds that keep Hawaii comfortable on hot days become fierce at the Pali. We laughed ourselves silly trying to walk without being blown sideways. Crawling back up the path didn’t seem like a bad idea.

Ghost Crabs, Teasing Birds, and Chinaman’s Hat

After leaving the lookout, we drove down to the base of the mountain and stopped at a small beach park. We watched ghost crabs — tiny, transparent little things — scuttle across the sand and vanish into holes like magic.

The park was full of those silly white birds (cattle egrets), and they were the ultimate tease. Every time I tried to get a close‑up photo, they stepped just out of reach. They’ve clearly been tormenting tourists for years.

A more cooperative subject was Chinaman’s Hat (Mokoliʻi), the little cone‑shaped island sitting just offshore in Kāneʻohe Bay. But the real star of the park was the mountain itself, those unforgettable “finger marks” rising behind us.

If You Go to Oʻahu…

Step away from Waikīkī and the North Shore waves for a bit.
Go feel the force of the trade winds at the Pali.
Stand before the Koʻolau cliffs and let your imagination run wild.

Close your eyes and you might even hear echoes of that long‑ago battle — a true turning point in Hawaii’s history.


 

Aye Calypso The Places You’ve Been To

Aye Calypso, I sing to your spirit

Calypso is still tied to the dock. I’m 15 minutes late but that’s on time by Island time. Racing to the gangway I am nearly knocked over by the force of the wind. These are no gentle Island breezes. It’s gusting and blowing like a hurricane. “We’re not going out in this are we? ” I call out. Tony, the first mate, waves a release at me and promises it will only get better. I’m skeptical. No captain in his right mind would take a boat load of tourists out in this kind of gale in Boston. By now I’m the last to board. I have to make a decision. To go or not to go, that is the question.

To ride on the crest of a wild raging storm

Ok so I signed the release, grabbed my gear and climbed to the bow of the 2nd deck. Almost immediately we cast off. Calypso is a beautiful catamaran. Her double hulls are built for stability. She has 3 decks as well as glass panels in the floor for those land lubbers that want to see what all the snorkeling and diving is about. The crew not only manages the ship, they act a servers too bringing around plates of fruit, muffins, warm cinnamon rolls and even egg and cheese croissants! 

To sail on a dream on a crystal clear ocean

So they were not wrong! As soon as we cleared  Ma’alaea Harbor and went around the point the wind died. We were heading toward Molokini and it had turned into a beautiful day. We had to come to an idle at one point while a mama humpback  whale and her calf checked us out. If a whale comes within 100 yards of a boat it puts that boat into “whale jail” until the whale moves off. The trip was just getting better and better and we hadn’t gotten to Molokini yet!

 

Inside Volcano National Park

Volcano National Park is currently Closed

Our Visit to Volcano National Park was one of the last before Kilauea blew her top.  Who would have guessed that we were witnessing the start of something so big? The eruptions we witnessed were small compared to what was to come but we had no idea. At the time we thought our visit was pretty special. Kilauea has been erupting continuously since January 3, 1983. It’s considered a relatively safe volcano. Lava flows are easily out paced  just by walking quickly. For quite a few years the lava has been flowing into the sea and I was on the Big Island to see that. But Kilauea wasn’t in a cooperative mood. A week before my trip the lava flow into the ocean stopped. I had to settle for a National Park Tour.

The Chain of Craters Road

After leaving Rainbow Falls we headed to Volcano National Park. On the drive I entertained myself looking for Nenes. A nene is a rare Hawaiian goose that is also the Hawaiian National Bird. The Nene is only found in the Hawaiian Islands. I’ve looked for the Nene on every trip without success but one of these days I’ll see one.  As we entered the park and started down the Chain of Craters Road the rain began to let up. We made a couple of stops to look at some of the craters from previous eruptions. Finally about 1/2 way down to the plain we pulled over to check out the frozen lava flows. These ropy flows that are now frozen in place are Pahoehoe.  The lava we saw on the Kona side of the island was thick, blocky lava,called a’a. 

Cooled Lava

King of the Hill

Watching my tour companions scramble up the face of the lava made me think of the King of the hill games. I would never have considered climbing it! I was more interested in the new green shoots that were pushing their way through the hardened lava. Life will not be denied.

 

Jaggar Museum

The afternoon was passing quickly so we loaded back into the van and turned around. The last stop before dinner was the Jaggar Museum. The plan was to see the rim of the crater and spend some time in the museum. In the crater is a lake of lava. When I was here last the lake was quiet and crusted over. That was kind of what I expected now but we arrived just as the eruption was beginning. The rain was starting again but  no one was in the museum. Everyone was lined up at the rail watching the lava lake. The rangers were reporting the lake was rising and even as we stood there tops of lava fountains began to crest the rim.

 

I have a Volcano On My Mind

Old Faithful Erupts

Old Faithful

I want to see a Volcano

After all, I just visited a super volcano! Yellowstone is an amazing place to visit. Surround yourself with geysers, steam vents, boiling mud and steaming rivers. What you won’t see is lava or magma. In Yellowstone that’s still deep underground. We hope it stays there for a long time. An explosion of a super volcano would be devastating!

But I still want to see a volcano

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Back in 2007 I visited the Big Island of Hawaii. As part of my trip I spent a day in Volcano National Park. We drove through lava fields. We even saw the “VOG” in the distance. Vog is volcanic fog and its loaded with sulfuric acid. Needless to say we didn’t get close. We considered hiking over the lava field to see the glowing lava but the solid lava is like glass. Any little fall causes lots of cuts and bleeding. Right at the start one of our party tripped and fell. Lots of band aids later we all helped her limp off the lava and back to the car.

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Let’s Look from the air

After our mishap on the ground we thought we might be able to see the lava from the air. Our group didn’t want to try a helicopter but they were willing to take a small plane ride. We signed up for the tour of the island. As part of the tour the plane circled the vent with the boiling lava. It didn’t look like much from the air. We only had glimpses of the bright red. A cooler skin of black floated over the glowing lava.

Maybe another chance

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During the intervening years I heard about a boat trip along the shore. They go out at dawn and dusk when the lava flow glowed as it poured into the sea. That was way on top of my to do list. Then last week I checked the eruptions for Kilauea. It’s not flowing into the sea anymore! “Lava flow is still active on the pali and coastal plain, however the ocean entry is currently halted”. I may find my plans “foiled” again. Can’t wait to get there and find out!

The Thing About Hawaii

RainbowsHawaii is a Paradise to me

As this trip to Hawaii approached I was surprised by the different reactions I got from people that knew where I was going. I admit I was a bit ambivalent about this trip. It’s a long plane ride and I’ve been to Maui before. In fact I’ve been here quite a lot. As one person said to me “It’s a long way just to sit on a beach”. I have to agree with that but the trip was booked so I was going.

Upgrade To First Class

As I was checking in for my flight I was given the option to upgrade to first class. At least for the first leg of my journey from Boston to LAX. I made a quick decision and clicked on yes. Oh my! I think I am hooked for life. I’ve traveled first class before but only for short trips. I thought it was nice then but for a long flight it’s going to be a “must” in the future. Did you know that even water is served to you in real glass cups, not plastic?! The breakfast that came with First Class was a turkey and cheese sandwich on flat bread, a side of fruit and yogurt, a beverage and a bread choice like a cinnamon roll or biscuit. There was real silverware. No plastic knives and forks. I was given a warm towel to freshen up with. So nice.

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Grocery Delivery Perk

As you know from my last post I arrived at my resort with limited options for a late meal. My TimeShare offers a grocery delivery perk. I’ve never used it but maybe I’ll look into it for future trips. Basically you tell them what you want to have in the condo when you arrive, bread, eggs, juice, soda etc. And they order it and make sure it’s there waiting for you when you check in. If I had thought to use that I wouldn’t have been in a dilemma  about what to have for dinner.

Now That I’m Here

Hawaii has already begun to work her magic on me. I had a wonderful first night sleep. I can feel the tension of the last few months draining away and I haven’t done anything  more than look out the window at my ocean view. It’s like this every time for me. From that first trip back in 2007 to today Hawaii never fails to sooth and calm me. Hawaii is more than ocean waves and palm trees. I can get those in Florida. No,  there’s something else here.  I hope I don’t sound stupid but I really feel like the islands speak to my soul. Welcome to Paradise!

Under the falls