Totem Poles

Don’t feel bad if someone tells you you’re “low man on the totem pole.” Often, the most important figure can be found at the base, not on the top, as many believe. (Taken from the Port Guide of the Island Princess)

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Ketchikan is home to the largest collection of totem poles in the world.

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They stand sprinkled throughout the city, at Totem Bight State Park and at Saxman Native Village.

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While we visited the Saxman Native Village we were invited to visit the carving shed, a large woodworking shop where totem poles and masks are carved by a master carver and his apprentices. Our interpreter joined us to give an explanation and answer questions.

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The scent of the freshly carved wood permeates the carving shed with its fresh, clean smell. While we were visiting we had a chance to see a totem pole that was recently commissioned by a family in California. The carvings on the pole represented a baker and a wine maker. A figure is carved for each branch of the family. It is still a work in progress . The carving is still done by hand in the old tradition.

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Nathan, the master carver, was in residence but could not be enticed to tell us the price tag on such a pole. His only comment was that “It was enough.” Nathan would not tell us how long it takes to carve a pole either. He is truly a man of few words.

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A totem pole can identify a clan and placed by the front door of their lodge can tell the history of the clan.

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Totem poles are erected for many reasons even to commemorate shameful events.
A potlatch was held in honor of Secretary of State Seward but when he did not reciprocate his ears and nose on his totem were painted red. A sign of disrespect. At one time his descendants asked how much it would cost to hold the potlatch now. When they were told the cost they decided to leave  the totem painted as is.

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Saxman Native Village

Our choice for our Ketchikan shore excursion was a visit to the Saxman Native Village.

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Our tour vouchers were delivered to our stateroom. All of the information needed to locate our tour guide was listed on the voucher. At about 8am an announcement was made over the general PA system that permission had been received from the local authorities for passengers to disembark.

To leave the ship we needed our stateroom key and to get through the photo line. There’s always a photo op at each port of call with something that symbolizes where you are.

Ketchikan

Since Ketchikan is known for the bald eagles that feed on the salmon and the Lumberjack Show, it was fitting that our photo op was with an eagle and a lumber jack!

Ketchikan was living up to it’s billing as the rain capital of the U.S. as we met our bus driver and guide, Keith.

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Saxman Village is 3 miles south of town. It’s a working Tlingit community with totem poles on display and a carver-in-residence. It was interesting to me that the natives don’t want to be referred to as Native Americans or Indians or Eskimos. They consider these terms derogatory. They prefer “First People” and trace their heritage back to the Athabaskans or “Na- Dene” meaning the people.

Once we arrived at the Village we followed Keith along a short path through the forest stopping from time to time to learn about the rainforest.

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Keith pointed out a big leafy plant with yellow flowers. I didn’t take a picture because  I grew up with these plants but most of the others on the tour lined up to snaps photos. I borrowed one from the internet.

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These plants are  called skunk cabbage and they really do smell like a skunk. It seems this plant that I always considered a nuisance is really very important to the eco-system here.

As we stepped out of the forest we were facing the Beaver Clan House.

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We entered a large auditorium where we met our Tlingit interpreter.

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He explained a bit about the culture and language of his people before playing a video which explained the Tlingit history in the area. In general, Alaska Athabaskans occupied the vast interior coniferous forests. Only during the last 1,000 years did several Athabaskan groups move to coastal areas. There they occupied the shores of Cook Inlet in South central Alaska.

After the video we moved on to a large room where a modern Tlingit woman was sewing and beading ceremonial garments. We learned that this lady is our interpreter’s mother.

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She had moccasins and hats on display for us to see and even hold and feel.

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After about 15 minutes we moved on into the ceremonial room. Large and dimly lit this room held a stage where we would have the chance to see Tlingit ceremonial dances.

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An elder made the introductions and the Cape Fox Dance Group took the stage.

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Our interpreter was front and center but the children stole the show.

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There were two, a young girl and a 3 year old boy.

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The little boy was the son of the drummer and has been included in the dance ceremonies since he was two.

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At the end of each dance the participants turned their backs to the audience. This was not to be rude but to show the embroidery on the back of their capes. These images represent the clan of the dancer. We were invited to take as many pictures as we wanted.

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When it was time for the last dance the Tlingit asked for volunteers from the audience to dance with them. This is a great honor. The dance is not difficult.  Each volunteer was draped with a cape and the drumming began again.

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The dancing ended when the participants danced off the stage and out of sight. An announcement was made to meet outside for the rest of the tour.

Day 3 ~ Ketchikan

Vancouver to Ketchikan    535 Nautical Miles        Speed 14.4 Knots

If Vancouver was considered our first port of call then Ketchikan is our first Alaskan Port of Call.

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It’s still raining. That’s not too surprising because Ketchikan, besides being the “Salmon Capital of the World” is also the Rainfall Capital of the U.S. Ketchikan is located in what is sometimes called the “Banana Belt” of Alaska for it’s mild summer climate if you can tolerate the rain. They even have a Liquid Sunshine Gauge to measure the average rainfall which can reach 152 inches per year.

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Ketchikan is located in the Tongass National Forest, part of a temperate rain forest that extends from Northern California through Southeastern Alaska creating a climate that allows for such majesty as the California Redwoods. Tongass is the earth’s largest  remaining temperate rainforest with over 17 million acres of forest and protected wildlife preserve.

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Ketchikan sits on its own island, Revillagigedo Island. This is such a tiny town it would only take about an hour to explore it on foot. Most of the island is  a steep, craggy wilderness with the town hugging the shore. Most of the streets are built over a complex array of trestles and boardwalks.

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From the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center to Misty Fjords there is so much to see in such a little town and so little time. We will only be in port for about 6 hours.

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Speaking of Misty Fjords, this is a national Monument named for the weather conditions you are likely to encounter but the areas profound beauty has earned it the nickname of “Yosemite of the North”. Accessible only by floatplane or boat  put the cost of this excursion out of our range for this trip. According to the passengers that did go, it was well worth the money spent.

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When in the Salmon capital it’s important to know that there are 5 different Species of wild pacific Salmon. To remember the 5 types of Salmon just raise your hand.

  1. Your thumb rhymes with Chum-Chum Salmon…Chum
  2. Your pointer finger can “sock” someone in the “eye” – sockeye Salmon…sockeye
  3. Your middle finger is the tallest – King Salmon…King
  4. Slip a silver ring on your ring finger – Silver Salmon…silver
  5. And your pinky –  well that’s easy – Pink Salmon…Pink

Ketchikan is sometimes called Alaska’s “First City  ” because  it’s the first major community travelers come to as they journey north.

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Ketchikan was originally a summer fishing camp for the Tlingit (pronounced Kling-it). In 1883 a man by the name of “Snow” opened the first salmon saltery and a fishing town was born. When gold and copper were found in the surrounding mountains a supply center was needed and Ketchikan flourished.

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Creek St, Ketchikan’s downtown section, is said to be the most photographed street in in Alaska! Now lined with shops and art galleries Creek St was once the town’s red light district.

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Ketchikan was the first chance we had to learn about the cost of living in Alaska. Fresh produce is scarce and pricey and milk  can run as much as $6.00 / gal. As we rode in the tour bus along Creek street we spotted a “Burger Queen”. Ketchikan has a Family Dollar or should I say $1.29 store. It lasted as a dollar store about 30 days before the cost of shipping in goods forced a price increase. But the best example was the local Subway where you could enjoy the foot long special for only $9.00. (if you have a local Subway you know that’s a $5.00 ft. long in the lower 48)

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Even souvenirs are not immune. If you are a plus size expect to pay a surcharge of $3.00 per T-Shirt!

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Ketchikan is home to The Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show but we decided to explore the culture of the native  Tlingit people with a visit to the Saxman Native Village.

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Alaska Planning

It’s almost cruise time. The long-awaited Alaska Cruise and Denali Landtour is only about 6 weeks away. Yes, I’m still going. After all, it was paid for before I knew I was about to be laid off. The money is gone. It won’t solve anything by not going. And since it’s a cruise most of the meals are all paid  for as well. Our day-to-day out-of-pocket should be minimal unless we go crazy for souvenirs and since mine are usually the ones I take with my camera I’m not too worried.

We’re booked on the Island Princess. The web site describes her this way:

Island Princess was built to Panamax size – this means she was built to the maximum size a cruise ship can be to sail through the Panama Canal. A high percentage of balcony staterooms give passengers the chance to view this feat of engineering up-close, or take in stunning views of spectacular glaciers during cruises to Alaska. Featured on just one other Princess ship, the Bayou Café and SteakhouseSM is a unique dining venue on board in which to enjoy authentic New Orleans cuisine accompanied by live jazz.

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The only thing left is to decide what excursions we want to do while in port.

Our First Port of call is Ketchikan, the First City on the Inside Passage of Southeast Alaska.

With an estimated population of 14,070 in 2010, it is the fifth most populous city in the state.

Ketchikan  has the world’s largest collection of standing totem poles, located at three major locations: Saxman Village, Totem Bight, and the Totem Heritage Center. So of course we want to see those. Combining a visit to Saxman Native Village and the Totem poles seems like a perfect way to soak up some of the Native Alaska-American Culture.

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Visit Saxman Native Village and experience the rich living culture of southeast Alaska’s Native Americans. Get an exclusive look at the fascinating culture of SE Alaska’s original inhabitants. The Tlingits welcome guests in the traditional style that defines the culture of Southeast Alaska. A short video program introduces you to the culture and history of Saxman. You will then enter the Beaver Clan House where you are welcomed by song and dance by the Cape Fox Dance group. Visitors are encouraged to participate in the final dance, before moving on to the Saxman Totem Park, one of the largest gatherings of totems in the world. Your guide will help unravel the mysteries of these towering, majestic poles. At the Village Carving Center craftsmen pass on their skill to eager apprentices. Learn how modern day carvers differ from their ancestors and learn of their current projects around the world. Fine Alaska Native art and small mementos are for sale at the Native Faces store.

Now I just have to see if my travel companion , this time my sister not Joe, agrees. 🙂