Welcome to the Yukon

Move over Dudley Do-Right!

Dudley-Do-RightWe are standing in the famous Yukon Territory! ( Not really. Its actually British Columbia but don’t tell the tourists) There be gold in them thar hills! Or so the stampeeders believed but once they reached Lake Bennett with all of their supplies they had to wait for the snow to melt. Then they built rafts and waited for the Yukon River to melt. Once spring came, they sailed down the rapids into gold territory.

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According to the exhibits located at the visitor Center , miners put boats in the Tutshi River near the canyon where the suspension bridge is today. Looking at the rapids as they swirled down  under the bridge and beyond its hard to believe they could take fully loaded  boats and survive. Many didn’t survive and many other  lost everything except their lives.

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Tutshi River and Canyon today is one of the top white water rafting spots of North America.

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It was cold here. The wind was blowing. This is the start of spring in the north and it was cold. I’d tried to imagine how cold it must have been when the miners dragged their supplies here to wait for the spring thaw.

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But enough exploring the exhibits. It was time to cross the suspension bridge. That was what we came here for. No chickening out.

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This was a pretty sturdy bridge as suspension bridges go but when you got to the middle you were at the mercy of the wind that gained momentum as it raced down the canyon from the icy tops of the surrounding mountains.

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On the far side of the bridge was a platform and at the rear of the platform a wooden boardwalk that led to a tiny cabin. Just the basic 4 walls,a stove for heat, a bed frame and a tub for washing if you dared; this tiny cabin illustrated the conditions the stampeeders experienced  as they waited for spring.

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Chilled to the bone we returned across the suspension bridge to the visitor center to warm up and explore the souvenirs. The hot chocolate was pretty good too.

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This was where we had out passports stamped with the Yukon Suspension Bridge stamp.

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Gateway to the Klondike

The ship arrived in Skagway in the wee hours of the morning or maybe it was night.

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It’s getting harder and harder to tell with the late sunsets and early sunrises the farther north we go.

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Skagway is located at the northern tip of Alaska’s Inside Passage.

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As we roused ourselves for the day’s adventures we looked out on a busy dock with a rock wall to hold the bank in place.

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Above the rock wall on the boulders embedded in mountainside we saw logos and ship’s names painted. The story is that when a crew likes the captain they come ashore and paint the ship’s ID on the rocks, the higher and more dangerous, the more the captain is esteemed.

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After breakfast, with the all clear to go ashore, we headed down to find the excursion bus that would take us to the White Pass and Yukon Railroad.

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We needed our passports because this adventure would take us into the Klondike region of Canada.

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The train would take us through the White Horse Pass. During the gold rush in 1896 there wasn’t a train. The stampeeders ( prospectors) had to either take the Chilkoot Trail which was shorter but steeper or the White Horse Pass that was longer but summited lower at 2885 ft.  Both ways were challenging and deadly. The Canadian Mounties waited at Lake Bennett to check supplies. Anyone without enough to survive was turned back at the border.

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I can assure you the train was much easier but even today it was easy to see the challenge.  We passed huge gullies and mountainsides as the train wound its way to the summit.

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We passed over trestle bridges and passed into and out of fog banks and clouds.

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Water poured down the mountainsides  in everything from torrents to trickles as the snow on the peaks began its spring melt.

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Pretty soon we had reached the snowline but even though we were traveling through snow the water continued its downward path. At times we were so close to the mountain side that a foolish person could have reached out and touched the rocks as they flew by…and lost a hand or arm had they been so careless.

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At times we could see across the “gulch” where another train ahead of us was already traveling upward or maybe returning downward.

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We could see where we would soon be. More than any place else that we’d been, this train ride captured the true wildness of the Alaska mountains.

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I admit, I stood in the cold outside the car in an attempt to capture some of the fantastic wilderness that surrounded us. My efforts fell far short of what we actually saw. The fog or clouds (depending on who you ask) only added to the drama of the ride.

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Once we arrived at Lake Bennett we had to wait for the Canadian Customs Agents. We were told not to speak unless spoken to, to have our passports out and open and to NOT TAKE ANY PICTURES!

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2 Agents boarded and made their way down the aisle. They never smiled. They were quite intimidating. The only time they spoke was to ask a foreign visitor for his visa as well as his passport. He had the visas for his whole family so they checked all of them then left the train.

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The bus was waiting to take us to the next stop, a suspension bridge. Everyone headed to the lake to take pictures but the bus driver rounded us up with promises that we’d be back and we could take pictures then. He said we had a schedule to keep.

Mendenhall Glacier

Mendenhall Glacier is part of our tour package but for those who aren’t on a tour and wish to check it out there are regular shuttles that leave from Franklin Square  by the Mount Roberts tramway station.

Meanwhile back on our tour bus, Phil handed out Nature Valley Bars and bottled water as a snack before our hike to the glacier. The Mendenhall Glacier is one of 37 glaciers that flow down from the 1500 square mile ice field. The glacier  stretches  approximately  13.5 miles from the ice field right into the valley finally ending in Mendenhall Lake.

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The Glacier once covered the whole valley reaching it’s fullest extent around 300 years ago. Since then it has been in retreat. When Sandy and I planned out trip we joked we wanted to get to Alaska before the glaciers all melted. Scientists predict that Mendenhall Glacier won’t be visible from the Visitor Center  in another 40 years if it continues it’s current rate of retreat. Maybe our joke wasn’t such a joke after all.

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Meanwhile the retreating glacier often spawns large icebergs  that drift across the lake.

The area is known for it’s wildlife sightings as well as the glacier but today at mid-day we didn’t see much in the way of wildlife.

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At the edge of Mendenhall Lake is a beaver lodge but even the beaver were missing, maybe taking a siesta?

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We started our hike to the lake on an easy trail through more of the rain forest. Phil stopped often to point out different mosses and lichen.

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The trail opened out into more open, dryer land. Phil explained that the type of soil didn’t retain the water as well as the topsoil in the rainforest which resulted in the more sandy, open area. We could see  a waterfall churning it’s way down the mountains. At this time of year, spring, waterfalls are everywhere as the snow melt makes it’s way into the valleys. By summer these torrents will be little more than a trickle if they exist at all.

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While we waited for stragglers to catch up and enjoyed the sunshine, Phil told us the story of Romeo, the Glacier Wolf. I’ll share that with you in another post.

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With everyone together again, we started downhill to the shore of the lake and the glacier views we’d been looking for.

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Sure enough. the lake was filled with ice bergs.

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The glacier glowed blue in the shade of the mountain side.

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I am so glad the sun decided to come out today. They say the glacier is pretty in the rain but I find it hard to imagine it could be any prettier than it was today with the sun shining and the icebergs floating on the cold lake.

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A Sunny Day

The weather remains cool (50’s) but sunny. The local weatherman says we need rain and that we are running about 10 degrees below average in temperature. The Right Whales are feeding off Cape Cod and it seems every weekend there’s another benefit walk for something.

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The cats continue to drive me crazy. Last night after I went to bed I was awakened by loud growls. As I ran to the living room to break up the fight, Smokey at my heels,  Rocky bolted to a cardboard box and Buddy flopped onto his side next to it. They both looked at me like they were the most innocent creatures in the world. Clearly it was a “mock battle”.

Not so this morning at 6am when Buddy decided he wanted Smokey’s window seat. (Sigh) That was a real fight, if one-sided.  Poor Smokey! I wish I knew who removed his claws! We could pull off a few fingernails and see how they like it.

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What will happen when I’m away on vacation and not around to play referee?

But back to yesterday. Since it was a nice sunny day I headed out to take some pictures. I’ve been neglecting some of my favorite spots and it was time to see what was going on for spring.

Lake Rico was busy with families picnicking and kids fishing. Since I didn’t want to intrude I moved on to the Herring Run. I’d seen some great pictures from some of my friends but when I got there the only wildlife was a few grackles.

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I hung out for about an hour but nary a sea gull came to visit…lots of people but not much else.

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Next stop the Grist Mill Pond in Plymouth.

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Mr. Majestic was feeling his oats chasing the Canada Geese up and down the pond.  Mrs. Majestic was still on her nest.

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At one point he climbed up on the  bank and after clearing the area of his pesky nemesis he performed what can only be called his victory dance!

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Then off he sailed, head held high, obviously quite pleased with himself.

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Around the grounds of Gillette Castle

I’ve written about Gillette Castle before. https://aroundustyroads.com/2011/03/05/gillette-castle-and-state-park/

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But up until now I’ve never had time to visit the actual grounds. I’ve always viewed the castle from the river.

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I rolled into Haddam about 1pm and my River Cruise wasn’t until 4 pm so with time on my hand I followed the signs to Gillette Castle and State park.. The roads and entrance are well-marked making it easy to find.

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The drive in is quite pretty even this early in the spring. There’s a little pond with a picturesque stone bridge just before you reach the main parking lot. You can pull in here and park or continue on to the visitor center and Castle itself.

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I was still here too early in the season. Nothing was open except the grounds so you could walk around the castle, enjoy the views and follow the trails but the Welcome Center was closed as was the interior of the Castle and the snack bar.

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That’s ok with me.

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There will be plenty more to explore when I get back this way again.