Aye Calypso The Places You’ve Been To

Aye Calypso, I sing to your spirit

Calypso is still tied to the dock. I’m 15 minutes late but that’s on time by Island time. Racing to the gangway I am nearly knocked over by the force of the wind. These are no gentle Island breezes. It’s gusting and blowing like a hurricane. “We’re not going out in this are we? ” I call out. Tony, the first mate, waves a release at me and promises it will only get better. I’m skeptical. No captain in his right mind would take a boat load of tourists out in this kind of gale in Boston. By now I’m the last to board. I have to make a decision. To go or not to go, that is the question.

To ride on the crest of a wild raging storm

Ok so I signed the release, grabbed my gear and climbed to the bow of the 2nd deck. Almost immediately we cast off. Calypso is a beautiful catamaran. Her double hulls are built for stability. She has 3 decks as well as glass panels in the floor for those land lubbers that want to see what all the snorkeling and diving is about. The crew not only manages the ship, they act a servers too bringing around plates of fruit, muffins, warm cinnamon rolls and even egg and cheese croissants! 

To sail on a dream on a crystal clear ocean

So they were not wrong! As soon as we cleared  Ma’alaea Harbor and went around the point the wind died. We were heading toward Molokini and it had turned into a beautiful day. We had to come to an idle at one point while a mama humpback  whale and her calf checked us out. If a whale comes within 100 yards of a boat it puts that boat into “whale jail” until the whale moves off. The trip was just getting better and better and we hadn’t gotten to Molokini yet!

 

The Volcano Tour Begins

Evidence of Volcano Activity  is Everywhere

As we made the rounds to the various resorts we passed remains of past volcanic activity. Lava turns into very rich topsoil but it doesn’t happen overnight.  The Big Island is the youngest of the Hawaiian Islands. There are six volcanoes that have worked together over the last (give or take) one million years to create the Big Island. These volcanoes formed one after the other and partially overlap. From oldest to youngest their names are: Mahukona, Kohala, Mauna Kea, Hualalai, Mauna Loa and Kilauea. Three volcanoes are still active: Hualalai, Mauna Loa and Kilauea. Kilauea is currently erupting while the other two could erupt at any time. Mauna Kea is dormant, Kohala inactive and Mahukona has probably never breached the ocean surface.

The lava flows we passed on the Kona Side were from Mauna Loa’s last eruption is 1984

 

Lava flow to the ocean

Kona Coast

A Snow Capped Volcano

Halfway to Hilo we pulled into a picnic area. This was a former boy scout camp. It was clean and well maintained. The only negative was another tour had arrived before us and took the only handicapped table. Zane, our tour guide , and the young Aussie men pulled another table over to the edge of the paved walk way. This worked to allow our handicapped guest a way to wheel up to a table. Lunch was a excellent boxed lunch. The sandwiches and cookies were amazingly fresh. Zane explained that everything in the lunches from the fruit to the bread to the cookies were all local grown. In fact he had to wait for the cookies to come out of the oven this morning before he picked us up. It was cool while we picnicked. We were in the saddle between the 2 volcanoes, Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea. We could see the snow on the mountain tops.

Snow Capped volcano

 

Rainbow FallsHilo and Rainbow Falls

Zane told us that it would rain once we got to Hilo. Hilo is part of the rain forest and it rains every day. We skipped Akaka Falls and headed to Rainbow Falls. Sure enough it started to rain. When the sun is out there are rainbows over the falls caused by the spray, hense the name, Rainbow Falls. We’d just have to settle for the falls today, no rainbows.

tour bus

Whale Watching in February

Watch out for the Whales

February is the highpoint of the whale season in Maui. The whale season is said to run from Mid December to Mid May but I can vouch for February. You can even watch the whales from shore! I love the whales. I think they are amazing animals and here you get to see the tiny babies as well as the adults. Of course “tiny” is relative. A 2 ton baby isn’t tiny by human standards but next to its mama, its just a bit of a thing.

Whales

What’s a Little Motion Sickness?

My dinner cruise price included a whale watch trip. I hadn’t planned on going whale watching this visit because I forgot to pack my motion sickness patches. The whale watches can get a little rough and I am prone to sea sickness. How many people do you know that can get sea sick while scuba diving? I did!  But that’s a story for another day! Anyway I had a whale watch coming to me so I decided to cross my fingers and take a chance.

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Whale Watching with Hawaii Ocean Project

The Whale watch boat was berthed in Lahaina Harbor, a very popular starting point for many whale watching companies. To pull out of the harbor everyone has to be seated. This is true for all of the cruises. The crew of our ship made all the proper announcements but they didn’t enforce them. Adults and children were still wandering the decks as we cast off. They went on to announce that serious photographers should be seated on the lower deck in the bow. I found my seat in the bow and prepared my camera. I shouldn’t have bothered.

Were there Whales?

just missed but got the splash

We saw whales. There was a lot of breaching and tail slapping. I can’t criticize the trip for that. But I will say I won’t go on this trip again. Getting shots of whales is hard enough without playing a dodge game with people holding their cell phones up in front of everyone. I was competing with heads, elbows and children being lifted on shoulders. This is not a trip for a serious photographer. There are other whale watching boats that have stadium seating so no one has an obstructed view. Or I’ll take one of the smaller rafting tours. All the seats on those are good and its very exciting. Let the families go out on this trip. I’ll find a different one next time.

Tail Slapping

Finally Some Sun

College Fjord GlaciersThe Land of the Midnight Sun

As we entered Collage Fjord the sun finally came out. The gray, dreary weather that had been following us since we boarded the ship finally cleared. Without the heavy, gray cloud cover we began to see why this land is known as the land of the midnight sun. Even though we were on an early spring cruise sunset at this latitude was still around 10:30 pm.

Midnight sun

What is College Fjord?

College Fjord

Believe it or not, College Fjord was even more spectacular than Glacier Bay. Maybe it was because we had sunlight and blue sky but I think it had more to do with the proximity of the glaciers. There are a lot of them here and the Fjord is more narrow than Glacier Bay. All of the glaciers here are named after a college. This is just a partial list of the glaciers that line the Fjord.

The Wildlife of College Fjord

marine mammalThere was a Naturalist on board for the cruise through College Fjord. We’d just entered the mouth of the Fjord when they announced that we could see mountain goats on the mountain sides. Although I looked like crazy I couldn’t see anything that I could say for sure were animals of any kind. We kept watch for marine mammals like whales and porpoises but only one unidentified animal showed it’s head. 

Whittier just ahead

Our Cruise ship in Whittier

After College Fjord we cruised into Whittier arriving in the morning. As soon as we finished breakfast we were off loaded. Just look at all that snow! Some of our luggage was taken to the Captain Cook hotel in Anchorage to await our return. A smaller bag of necessities for our 3 days in Denali went with us to the train. The cruise portion of our trip was over. 

 

Glacier Bay to Prince William Sound

Magarie GlacierGrand Pacific Glacier

At the head of Glacier Bay next to the spectacular Margerie Glacier is a dirty black line of ice. This is the remains of the Grand Pacific Glacier. This granddaddy of them all is now receding at the rate of 30-60 ft per year. At one time it was this glacier that filled the area that is today Glacier Bay. As The Grand Pacific receded it left behind the U shaped trench to fill with water creating the magnificent Glacier Bay we see today.

Grand Pacific Glacier

Prince William Sound

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Grand Pacific Glacier marks the end of Glacier Bay. It was time to turn around and head out to more open sea. Prince William Sound is part of the Gulf of Alaska. It is located to the east side of the Kenai Peninsula. Out here the ocean is more open. It’s not as protected as the bays and straits we’ve been traversing so far. We’ve been told to stay alert and watch for abundant wildlife. Resident marine mammals include humpback, sei, fin, minke, and killer whales as well as Steller sea lions, harbor seals, and sea otters, all of which reach some of their greatest numbers in Prince William Sound. Even land animals can be seen on the narrow beaches. Some of the most common are black bears, grizzlies, moose and mountain goats. But I wouldn’t see any of them.

 

Along with open water come the waves

By now I considered myself a seasoned cruiser. I’d never been on a ship this large that rocked. I’d even told my sister that she wouldn’t need Dramamine. But Prince William Sound did me in. Seas were running 4-6 ft. Not huge but large enough for a pronounced rocking motion. It was actually pretty gentle, up and down from peak to trough and up again. If it had been a wild ride I’d probably have been ok. My adrenaline would have kicked in. Instead this gentle up and down motion sent me heading for my bunk. I spent the afternoon napping and  fighting the nausea of sea sickness So I missed the pod of orcas that passed the ship in the middle of the sound.

Orca

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