Tulum Ruins

Posted on February 10, 2013February 10, 2013 by Dusty Roads

Location, location, location…the mantra of the real estate industry was true even in Mayan times. Tulum’s greatest attraction is its location. The walled city perched on a bluff facing the rising sun offers nothing less than spectacular views. Tulum is also different because it is a “walled city” and the Mayan’s were not known for building fortified cities. Research suggests that Tulum was originally called Zama, meaning “to dawn” , which makes sense given its location.

It is speculated that Tulum was not so much conquered by the Spaniards as destroyed by the Old World diseases they brought which wiped out the native people who had no resistance. So like so many cities, Tulum was abandoned to the elements.

The Walled City of Tulum

Posted on February 9, 2013February 9, 2013 by Dusty Roads

True to the guidebooks’ promise the little shuttle dropped us at the entry to the ruins of Tulum but we hadn’t caught up to Paula and the rest of our group yet.

We had a new guide who was very considerate and kind. We had some stone stairs to climb before we actually reached the main ruins and he graciously helped some of the older guests as I helped a lady who had somehow attached herself to me. He never rushed anyone and always asked if we were ok.

Finally we saw the site spread out before us. Paula and our group were off the path ahead of us so our guide sent us to rejoin them and he went back for the next tram.

The site spreading out before us was impressive.

Paula was pointing out the various structures and points of interest before turning us lose to explore on our own.

While she was giving us a history an animal ran out from a clump of trees.

Of course I had to interrupt by loudly asking “What’s That?” and pointing. Paula looked and quickly dismissed it as being “our raccoon”.

It didn’t look like any raccoon I’d ever seen but before I could get a picture one of the other guests stepped between me and the animal. According to the internet it’s a coatimundi and it is called the Mexican Raccon.

Finally Paula pointed us in the direction of the beach and told us when we were done to come back to the bus. She gave us a time because we had to get back to the ship or end up staying in Mexico.

Castle in a Cliff

Posted on June 3, 2011June 3, 2011 by Dusty Roads

After we left Montezuma’s Well, we got back on the interstate for another exit or two until we saw more signs. This time for Montezuma’s Castle. Both Montezuma’s Castle and Montezuma’s Well are National Park locations so I was able to collect park passport stamps at both locations. It was nice to have such well-marked parks. Often when I’m looking for a location the signs are vague or missing. These were right there in your face. No way to get lost! 🙂

As we were driving on the access road to the Castle parking lot a roadrunner crossed right in front of the car. Those little guys are fast! I could imagine the ” Beep-Beep”! As I was the designated driver there was no camera handy so Mr. Roadrunner escaped without a portrait.

The parking lot is paved and lined and in excellent condition. Once you park, your path takes you past the restrooms to the visitor center. The whole walkway is like a covered portico. The visitor center had a small gift shop and several rangers available to offer suggestions and answer questions.

Passing through the 2nd set of doors sets you on a shaded , paved path that is very easy walking. As you round the first bend in the path the Castle is right there in front of you. What an amazing sight! There is this huge adobe building clinging to the cliff face. The living area extends backward into the cliff itself. This is the best preserved cliff dwelling in North America.

Unlike Montezuma’s Well, I had seen pictures of Montezuma’s Castle and even watched a documentary at one time so I thought I had an idea what to expect. Boy was I wrong. Nothing in my experience made me ready to see this building clinging to the side of this cliff. It made me think of the nests swallows build that seem to just hang on the side of a cliff or barn. It is mind-boggling that these ancient people were able to accomplish this gravity defying feat.

The “castle” clings to a Verde Valley limestone cliff. The workmanship demonstrates the skill and tenacity of the Sinagua. They were very daring builders to put it mildly. Access to the dwelling would have been by ladder, with entry to the individual “apartments” through entry holes in the thatched roofs.

The building itself is 5 stories of stone and mortar that contained about 20 rooms and housed as many as 50 people. It’s precarious location perched as it is on the cliff, provided some protection from their marauding enemies. As you can see from the photo with the people at the base of the cliff, that structure is pretty far up there!

A natural overhang offered protection from the elements and provided shade from the hot desert sun. The ruins were so well-preserved when discovered that there were many artifacts still in the building. These artifacts supply archeologists with many clues about life at that time but it hasn’t answered the most burning question…Where did they go and why did they leave?

Farther up the path and still within sight of the “castle” there are more ruins. These were not as well-preserved as the main building, possibly because access was much easier. Built on the same pattern as the cliff dwelling most of the artifacts have been removed over the years by looters.

As the path turned back toward the visitor center leaving the ruins behind there is a small kiosk with an interactive display of what the cliff dwelling might have looked like in its hey day with the people performing the tasks and climbing the ladders in pursuit of their daily life.

The dwelling and the surrounding area has been a National Monument since 1906. Access to the dwelling has been denied since 1950 to preserve what remains of the site and to prevent further damage and looting.

The visitor center includes a small museum with many of the tools used by the Sinagua to build the dwelling as well as other stone tools used for grinding grain, bone needles for sewing and ornaments. The Sinagua were talented artisans.

Over 350,000 people visit the monument annually. I am pleased to say I am one of them. A very interesting and worthwhile stop on our itinerary.

Montezuma’s Well

Posted on June 2, 2011June 2, 2011 by Dusty Roads

Almost all of our tours are done. We have 1 more this after noon at 5pm, a sunset ride but for the most part our time is our own from this point on. So with the day open we decided to explore Montezuma’s Well.

I wasn’t at all sure what to expect. I just knew that I didn’t get a chance to go there on my last visit to Arizona and Sandy is very interested in Native American Culture so an ancient ruin seemed like a good way to spend some time.

Montezuma’s Well is easy to find. It’s clearly marked with large signs right off interstate 17. There are restrooms and a small ranger station next to the parking lot. The ranger was GREAT!. He was so out-going and friendly. He gave us lots of advice about what to look for on our walk. He obviously enjoys his job and is very good at it.

The trail to the “well” is paved and slopes slightly upward. The ranger told us to “drink plenty of water” ,the mantra of the desert , but even with the sun the walk wasn’t uncomfortable.

At the top the trail winds around a large pond of water. According to the literature it is the remains of a large limestone sinkhole. I expected a little stone well not this big hole filled with water! The sides are very steep and deep. Cave dwellings were visible in the walls of the well.

The water is warm but not from being in the desert. Apparently, what ever the source, the spring flows at a steady 76 degrees all year ’round. More than a million gallons of water a day flows continuously through this huge bowl in the desert floor creating a green oasis in the scrubby desert grassland.

A series of stone steps leads down to the water’s edge. The ranger said there were 100 steps. I didn’t count them but if it was 100 it was the easiest 100 I have ever walked.

At the bottom the path winds through tall grasses and wildflowers until you enter a tree-shaded glen with the water on the left and a stone and cave style dwelling to your right. It was cool and hard to believe I was in a desert.

Sandy had opted to wait on top. While she was waiting for me to take my little side trip she met some visitors from England that were bird watching. They were lucky enough to spot the Great Horned Owl that makes its home in the cliffs of the well. I, unfortunately, missed that. Still I am glad I explored the bottom.

Back on top and caught up with my sister we found the 2nd trail that the ranger had mentioned. I was able to convince Sandy to try this one. It was slightly steeper and narrower than the “100 step trail” but it was shorter. Only a couple of “landings” down and we turned a corner into a gorgeous glade.

Huge Arizona Sycamores towered above us, water crest grew green in the stream along the base of the cliff and the water bubbles and gurgles where the well water empties into Beaver Creek. The foliage was so thick it gave a green cast to the light. It was just absolutely gorgeous, just as the ranger had said it would be. It was lovely and peaceful with the water gurgling close by. A perfect place to meditate or spend a day with a book. Still we couldn’t linger too long. there was so much more that we wanted to see before our trip came to an end.

Back on top in the desert sun, we followed the trail back toward the parking lot.

We hadn’t seen too much wildlife yet so when I saw one of the little lizards or geckos that seem to be everywhere I took a picture. It may not be much but it’s still wildlife. 🙂

One last note about Montezuma’s Well is that Montezuma was Aztec and the Aztec were never in Arizona. Apparently the early settlers to the area made the assumption that it was Montezuma’s doing and the name stuck. In fact the dwellings had been deserted for over 100 years before Montezuma was even born!

Well with that tidbit of information under our belts it was time to head over to the other misnamed site, Montezuma’s Castle.

Gillette Castle and State Park

Posted on March 5, 2011March 5, 2011 by Dusty Roads

As we cruised south on the Connecticut River our guides pointed out a huge stone building on a bluff overlooking the river. With no trees to block the view it was hard to miss and certainly does look like a Medieval castle.

I had noticed signs on the way to the boat landing referring to Gillette Castle and Gillette Castle State Park but I had never heard of it before so had no idea what it might be.

According to our guides, Gillette Castle State Park is located in Haddam, Ct. The Castle was built by “William Gillette as a private residence. It is said he came to visit and was so taken with the views that he bought 184 acres and built this huge stone house.

William Gillette was an American and made his money as an actor, most notably playing Sherlock Holmes on stage.

Gillette loved showing off his estate and even had a railroad track with a working steam engine so he could show his visitors around the grounds.

In 1882 Gillette married Helen Nichols of Detroit. They were blissfully happy. She died in 1888 from peritonitis caused by a ruptured appendix. According to our guides, Helen , on her death bed, begged him not to remarry and he honored that request. He was grief-stricken for years and in the Spring of 1890 was struck down by tuberculosis. By the time of his death he was almost penniless but he still had his home.

When Gillette died , he had no wife or children to inherit, his will precluded possession of the castle by any (and I love this) “blithering sap-head who has no conception of where he is or with what surrounded”.

Connecticut’s government took possession of the property in 1943 and renamed the home Gillette’s Castle and the land around it Gillette State Park.

The Castle is open during the summer and can be toured while the grounds are open all year. Even if the Castle is closed you can stand on the veranda and look out over the Connecticut River, enjoying the same views that so enamored William Gillette.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.