Oak Creek Canyon

It’s the last full day in Arizona. Tomorrow we have to be up early to drive to Phoenix and board a plane back to reality, in this case reality is Albany Airport. So what to do today? We can take a drive…Monument Valley, Sunset Crater, Cameron Trading Post, Meteor Crater, Petrified Forest, Painted Desert…or a spa day…no more tours. I’m “toured out”.

We’ve been kicking this around all week. About the only thing we know for sure is that we’re going to do our souvenir shopping this morning then the day is ours!

Turns out the souvenir shopping didn’t take us long. Sandy knew exactly what she wanted to get and for whom. I stopped by the camera shop and Sandy actually found the last item on her list there so we were done in record time. We decided to take one last run up to the Native American stands on 89 A  for a last look at the jewelry and dream catchers.

After we made the last of our purchases there I asked Sandy if she wanted to stop at Slide Rock Park and she said no she wasn’t in the mood for hiking and it was still too cold for swimming in my book so we drove on up the winding canyon road of  89 A for the last time.

 At the top of the canyon where the road begins to straighten and flatten there is a sign for Oak Creek Overlook. I have never stopped here but figured why not. I don’t know when or if I’ll get back so let’s take 5 minutes and see what it’s all about.

Rand-McNally, that premier publisher of road maps, named this section of 89 A that winds through Oak Creek Canyon a “most beautiful drive” . The designation made it the first scenic drive in Arizona. A breathtaking series of switchbacks and hairpin curves makes maneuvering this highway a challenge unless you obey the speed limits…then it’s not too bad. I can now say I’ve driven this road at least a dozen times and I know what the road is about but as I mentioned in my post about the Bottom of The Canyon I had never looked into the canyon before. As the driver it is far better to keep your eyes and attention on the road.

Now as I parked my car at the top I wasn’t sure what awaited me at the overlook. We could see a lot of people. Far more than either of us expected but as we got closer we realized it was because the Native Americans had set up tables to display their crafts similar to the ones we had left just south of Slide Rock. I wandered through the tables but didn’t see anything more than what I had already purchased. I mainly wanted to see the canyon and it didn’t disappoint.

The walkway along the canyon rim follows a curving path giving you breathtaking  views into the depths of the canyon. Trees rise up and tower along the slopes. I had no idea the canyon was so deep or huge! Now I understand why  Oak Creek Canyon is sometimes referred to as a smaller cousin of the Grand Canyon.

The views reminded me of Joe’s (guide for Native American Journey’s) explanation that Oak Creek Canyon was formed along a fault line and that the fault had shifted twice to create this massive rift. Oak Creek, a tributary of the Verde River, flows along the bottom of the canyon and is credited with carving out much of what is today the existing Canyon. Oak Creek is one of the few perennial streams in this high desert region of Arizona.

As I continued on along the rim I spotted a red tail hawk floating on the thermals. To my surprise I was actually above the hawk when I first spotted him. The sun rays caught his back and feathers and turned him into a golden raptor and then he was circling higher and soon above me. It truly took my breath away to realize that the canyon was so deep that I could stand on the rim and watch a hawk start his upward spiral from below me. I would have expected that at the Grand Canyon but it was a surprise to me here.

As the moment passed I moved onto the last section of the lookout and there was the shot I have wanted since I first drove Oak Creek Canyon in 2008. There were the switchbacks and hairpin turns all laid out before me. Three big loops of highway and if you looked closely way down at the bottom the last bit of highway peaked through.

I am so very happy we stopped here. Even though the stop was short compared to some of the other things we had done, it was a real high point for me in this trip.

We had decided to drive on toward Winslow and the Petrified Forest. That’s quite a long drive so we wrapped up our visit and headed back to the car. I think I was still walking on air!

Schnebly Hill Road and Vista

Back in Sedona we parked the car in the same lot we’d used before with the 3 hour parking limit. We stopped in the Candy Shop to ask if we would be ok this late in the day if we ran over the limit. We didn’t know much about this tour or how long it would take.

Snoopy Rock

When we were talked into booking this tour we were just passing by a little kiosk and had stopped to look at the Montezuma’s Castle photos on the  wall. That was all the salesman needed. After he hit a brick wall with several other tour offers he noticed the camera around my neck and suggested this tour for Sunset Photos of Sedona. The tour was being booked through the concierge department of Diamond Resorts, the Time Share Group that I belong to so he offered us a discount if we took the tour. After some private discussion we agreed since Schnebly Hill Rd was not someplace we could really take the rental car on our own…or so we’d heard.

We arrived at the kiosk at 5 pm just like the salesman told us but no one was there. We hung around til about 5:10 when I said I would go look for the tour group. The tour was through “A Day In The West.” and I had seen their ticket booth down the street. I left  Sandy at the Diamond Resort booth in case the salesman came back and headed off to find the other ticket office.

At the “A Day in the West” ticket office I explained we were waiting down at the other location but that no one was there. The ticket agent said the salesman must be new because we were just supposed to come right there. She had our reservations in the computer so I trotted off to get Sandy. When I got there Sandy said no one had shown up there yet so back to a”A Day in the West” we went.

The folks at “A Day in the West” were a lot of fun. They all had a great sense of humor and were joking and kidding each other while we waited for our driver. One of the things I love about these tours in the jeeps is how gentlemanly the drivers are. I have seen women drivers but I haven’t had one for a tour, but the men offer their hand to help you in and out and are very attentive to your needs. I can’t say comfort because if you are looking for comfort you don’t want to take a jeep ride!

These jeeps are  four-wheel-drive high-clearance vehicles and although I won’t say for sure that they have special axles it sure feels like each  wheel can move independently. When they tell you to buckle up …do it !

On my last trip I took the Soldiers Pass off-road trip and I sat in the front. It was bumpy but I didn’t feel like I was being tossed all over. This time I let Sandy have the front seat thinking I would have a good vantage point for pictures in the back. Boy oh boy! I don’t know what the ride up front was like but if it hadn’t been for the seat belt I would have been on the floor or bounced  out of the jeep as soon as we hit Schnebly Hill Rd.

On a map Schnebly Hill Rd looks like any other meandering ride through the region but in fact with our guide pointing out the various rock strata and filling in the cultural background, this tour became a lesson in time, geology and local lore.

Back when Sedona was first settled the farmers and tradesmen took their goods to market in Flagstaff. The trip required the settlers to travel south 11 miles to  Beaver Head Station where they could then head east then north and in the process travel up a mountain. The whole trip took 4 days  one-way. Needless to say they were always on the lookout for a shortcut. The result of that quest was Schnebly Hill Rd. It took persistence, back-breaking manual labor using the picks and shovels of the day and a little black powder to eventually carve  a rough wagon road out of the steep canyon and connect with a dirt road that ran from Phoenix to Flagstaff.

Carl Schnebly wasn’t the first to use the wagon route but he was the one whose name stuck. He first used the road to transport lumber to build his home. Then once his home was complete he used it to make regular runs to Flagstaff taking produce for sale and returning with supplies and eventually the mail for his general store.

On a side note once Schnebly started acting as postmaster he had to submit a name for his settlement. Oak Creek Crossing and Schnebly Station were rejected as being too long so the little settlement became Sedona, named  after Carl’s wife.

Along with regaling us with these stories, our driver was mindful of the fact that we took the tour for photo ops. No camera in the world has a fast enough shutter speed to over come the shaking I was taking in the back of the jeep so frequent stops became the name of the game. We still had a lot of haze in the atmosphere but I did manage to get some photos although not the  really above average shot I am still looking for! (Any excuse for a return trip )

Schnelby Hill Rd zigs and zags 13 miles before it intersects any other road but our tour only covered about half that. 6 miles up rugged Bear Wallow Canyon we pulled over to a scenic overlook. This is Schnebly Hill Vista. We hopped out to stretch our legs and shake off the bumps and of course enjoy the view. It wasn’t sunset yet but it was close and it was beautiful.

We got pictures and also took some of the jeep and out guide before we clambered back into the yellow monster for the return trip down through the canyon. Sandy hates heights and expressed that concern to our driver. He was really nice so if nothing was coming the other way, he hugged the far side of the road away from the canyon drop off. Of course perched high in the back as I was, I could see it all! 🙂

You can see the winding dirt road we traveled in some of the pictures.

All together we were probably out for about 2 hours. It was a worthwhile trip but if you have back problems or any physical issues that can be aggravated by being shaken up like a cocktail mixer, I would suggest a different tour. By the time we got back I was treating the jeep like a bucking bronco and using my legs to absorb some of the worse  of the bounces and that seemed to make it a bit easier.

All in all it was a fun tour and I didn’t mind the bumps that much. It wasn’t a “sunset” tour but you could call it a “late afternoon” tour.

Blazin’M Ranch

Welcome to the Blazin’ M Ranch! This time the doors are open. Here we will enjoy a “Chuckwagon Supper” and a Live Western Show. I would hate to be attending a Dead Western Show…oh never mind!

The rain was back in an on again off again  fashion when we pulled into the parking lot. It picked up a bit as we claimed our tickets and got instructions on how to find our seats once the doors opened to the dining room/ auditorium. Until then we had about an hour to explore the replicated Western town.

There are 5 shops in this little town: a saloon, a winery an Olde Tyme Photo, a museum, and a mercantile shop filled with souvenirs, penny candy, cowboy hats and boots and more. You can also take a roping lesson or shoot a rifle at the Shootin’ Gallery.

We poked our heads into the Saloon first and there was a cowboy there I recognized from my first trip in ’08. Of course Sandy didn’t know who he was. I asked if I could get a picture of the two of them. Sandy had no idea what I was up to until after I took the picture. That was when I confirmed he was part of the show we were there to see. 🙂

My favorite shop is the museum which houses an extensive collection of miniatures, some of which are automated. They are just amazing to watch.

The grounds are attractive and neat except for a ton of the cardboard cut outs that you stand behind to have your picture taken by your friends.

As we strolled around the sun tried to come out again creating a mini rainbow right at the ridgeline.

 As  you can see by the signs there is quite a sense of humor on display already.

Since we weren’t going to drink in the Saloon or try to rope a mechanical cow or even try our hands in the shooting range, we headed into the big barn where the dinner and show will  take place.

 The barn is climate controlled and will seat up to 280 hungry cowboys (and cowgirls).

If you’re looking for a 5 star meal you have come to the wrong place. First everyone gets in a line based on where they are sitting. As you travel through the stations you are handed a tin plate then servers put the food on the plates and you walk back to your table.

Our menu consisted of some kind of cold corn salad…I only tried 1 bite and don’t really know what to say about it. It wasn’t bad but it wasn’t my cup of tea either. Next I tried the “Cowboy” baked beans.  I have had more flavor out of a can of beans from the supermarket. I think they forgot the molasses or something. Pretty poor fare so far.  The baby back ribs weren’t bad. They were fall off the bone tender and had some flavor. There was extra BBQ sauce on the table so I’d have to rate them a bit better. Next I tried the chicken and like the baby back ribs it wasn’t too bad and the extra BBQ sauce was there to help it along.

The roasted potatoes were pretty good. They were covered with cheese. Kind of made me think of cheesy potato skins. But the biscuits were the shining star of the meal. They were GREAT! I was just about to go begging for another one when a tall, tall cowboy came by flinging biscuits at anyone who asked for one. In the condiment basket in addition to the butter we found jam and packets of honey. Oh yeah Honey! We were now in heaven. There is nothing like a warm biscuit with butter and honey.

I would have been content with that but along came another cowboy with dessert. It was fruit cobbler (still warm ) and vanilla ice cream that was beginning to melt from the heat of the cobbler. That was pretty darn good too..although I will still vote for the biscuits as the number 1 food item. There was water, lemonade and coffee on the tables for beverages and the servers were quick to keep the pitchers filled up.

I tried for a shot of the stage before the lights went down. Do you see the Jackalope?

That prong horn was the only one we saw the whole trip!

The show is filled with old favorites (Happy Trails to you, Cool Water),  a Patsy Cline Set, a sing-a-long and the local bum/ clown for comedic effect. The surprise is that “Otis” can sing. Like the Jim Neighbor/ Gomer Pyle paradox, when Otis opens his mouth for a rendition of Tennessee Ernie Ford’s 16 Tons your mouth just hits the floor!

The show also features  our friend Jimmy from the Saloon earlier. He’s the lead guitarist but like George Harrison of  the Beatles, he is kind of quiet, letting his guitar do the talking for him even when he is featured in his large red sombrero performing a classic flamenco tune that had us clapping and stomping along.

Still my favorite moment of the whole evening, the reason I insisted we come back here again, was the finale. The song Ghost Riders on the Storm is a great classic anyway but the lights are down and the strobe light outside starts flashing calling our attention to the big windows along the side of the barn and there he is…the Ghost Rider on a racing, raging steed! It makes my pulse start racing just telling you about it. I love that part of the show!

Once the house lights came back up and the cast took their bows the crowd started to file out of the barn. The Ghost Rider and his trusty horse where available for pictures but since it was raining again we skipped that and headed right to the car. Time to head back to the condo in Sedona and decide on our destination for tomorrow. We’re on our own…only 1 tour booked and that’s not until 5 pm so we have lots of options!

Sedona Trolley

Good morning World! It’s the first full day in Sedona. After yesterday’s trials and tribulations we took our time getting up and out. I’ve been here before but  Sandy has not so it was fun listening to her oooh and ahhh over the beautiful red rock formations.

Thunder Mountain

Eventually we made our way out to the car and drove up 89A into upper Sedona. The place was packed with tourists. We just added 2 more to the head count. 🙂 I finally found a place to park. Although it seemed like it was part of the parking area it was way down on the bottom level next to the trash cans and recycling receptacles. That’s ok by me. There wasn’t a sign that said 3 hour limit so I guess it pays to “go slumming” now and then!

Since this is Sandy’s first visit I suggested we take the double ride on the Sedona Trolley. Their motto is that the Trolley is the “First , Best thing to do in Sedona”. I agree. The ride is not just a sightseeing trip, it also helps you get familiar with the layout of the town. Often the drivers make suggestions for places to eat or shop as they point the highlights along their route.

The trolley runs 2 tours, each one covering a different end of Sedona. We bought a combo ticket for both rides. It’s very reasonably priced at around $22.00 per person for the combo.  Once we had our tickets in hand we had about an hour before our trolley ride started  so we used it to explore the shops in upper Sedona. We are saving the actual shopping for the end of our stay but this gave us a chance to see what was available for souvenirs.

Of course “Dirt Shirts” are everywhere and you can watch the episode of Dirty Jobs on how they are made in almost every store.

Back at the trolley we headed out to the area of Sedona the locals use. There’s a Walgreen’s, a Safeway, McDonald’s, KFC and scores of nicer restaurants. We took a side loop to pull over for some photo ops with the Red Rocks like Coffee Pot Rock.

Coffee Pot Rock

 The driver pointed out the plateaus and mesas and buttes. They all probably started life the same way but erosion has changed them into their current shapes. A butte is a small flat-topped hill. Buttes are what is left of a mesa after it has eroded away and they are almost always taller than they are wide.  A mesa is a medium-sized hill or mountain with a flat top. To be really accurate there should be standing water on a mesa but not on a butte. Mesa is the spanish term for table. A mesa is large enough to run a herd of cattle or find wildlife. A plateau is a really big mesa. The Colorado Plateau is an example of a REALLY BIG plateau. Most are smaller than that and they are wider than they are tall.

The driver also told us about the various plants in the area and how the Native American’s used them in their daily life from medicines to making needles and using the fibers for sewing.  She told us  that about 80% of the desert plants have some use to the Native Americans.

Back at the trolley stop our driver left us and we got a new one. This one was a man, I think his name was Wayne. He told more stories including telling us which plants were used to make alcohol and which plants were hallucinogenic ending with “You too can believe in aliens or see a wild jackolope!”

Jackalope

It was this trip that took us out toward Oak Creek and the Chapel of the Holy Cross and the Millionaire’s Mansion that is sitting at the foot of the hill.

Chapel Of The Holy Cross

The Chapel of the Holy Cross is one of Sedona’s most famous landmarks . It is considered to be a very spiritually powerful location like the vortexes of Sedona. The Chapel is built around a simple cross that rises from an outcropping 200 ft above the desert floor. Admission is free but donations are appreciated. There are banks of candles as you enter if you wish to light one for a loved one.

The Mansion at the base of the hill the Chapel is located on gets almost as much attention as the Chapel. Here is a great example of spiritualism vs excess materialism. The mansion is a summer home for a Romanian Millionaire. It has an observatory, more bathrooms than bedrooms, multiple swimming pools and it’s only occupied a couple of months out of the year. The fence around the building actually has real gold in it.

This is also where we got a really good look at Bell Rock

Bell Rock

 and Court House Butte.

Court House Butte

There is also a formation they call the 2 nuns and next to that Madonna and Child.

2 Nuns

 

Madonna and Child

 

We also took a quick turn through the shopping area of Tlaquepaque.

As we headed back into upper Sedona the driver pointed out Snoopy Rock with Woodstock on his nose.

Snoopy Rock

We’d seen Elephant Rock earlier in the tour.

Elephant Rock

 He also  said there was a formation that was Lucy but I seem to have missed that one. Sandy said she saw it.

The double tour took us about  2 hours (1 hour each) so we got back to the trolley stop at about 3 pm. Just in time to get something to eat at the Canyon Breeze and recap our ride.

On the deck of the Canyon Breeze

We split a cheeseburger ( 1 cheeseburger at the Canyon Breeze is a 1 lb patty) and fries and sat  on the back patio admiring the view. Sandy spotted a little bird in the rafters so we tried to identify it as well as one we saw at the Chapel. We think we figured it out but I will save that for my post on the “Wildlife” of Sedona and Northern Arizona. Can’t give it all away at one time!

After lunch (brunch ) we made our way back through more shops toward where the car was parked. On the way we could smell the wonderful aroma of chocolate! At the Candy Store Sandy had a discussion with the mascot but we resisted for now. I am sure we will be back. It’s only day 1 so how long can  our will power last?

Back in the car we took a short ride up 89 a  into Oak Creek Canyon to the Native American Crafts stand. We admired the fine beadwork and fine jewelry. Sandy picked up a pair of earings.

Sandy wanted to write  postcards and get them in the mail early plus we had to be up a the crack of dawn in the morning to drive to Williams to catch the Grand Canyon Rail Road. To make it easy on ourselves we stopped at the local KFC and took some chicken back to the condo for dinner.

The evening was spent quietly relaxing. Sedona is a “dark sky” community so you can sit back and enjoy the stars without streetlights overpowering the view. It was cool, but not cold….yet!

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Seems like we didn’t do much but the day was full enough. I think we were both satisfied with the “laid back” approach.

Writer’s Block

Well it was bound to happen one of these days. I set a pretty ambitious goal to post something 6 days a week. The biggest problem is time. There is lots to write about but I like to give you up to date information and pictures. In fact, I subscribe to the old adage that a picture is worth a thousand words so if I have no pictures, I have no tales.

The past few days were a combination of things including weather that kept me from getting much exploring done. I didn’t even have much time to take pictures for my photo blog. I had my car in for maintenance so with no wheels to get around I missed being out and about gathering stories. It still need some more work too so I hope it won’t be tied up too long. After all I have places to go and people to see and things to do and then tell you all about it all here!

I asked Scout if he had any new tips and he admitted he hadn’t put anything together. He said he could have some in a day or two but by then I should be back on track.

I thought my friend Julie would bail me out with stories of her recent trip to Arizona and California but she had the day off so I haven’t caught up with her at work yet.

My cuz in Florida is going to share her experiences on trip she took to Ireland but she’s still putting that together. I have another co-worker that went to Ireland as well but I haven’t set up a time to get his stories yet. My fault on that one.

My friend Diane still has many, many stories and pictures to share but again I dropped the ball and didn’t leave myself enough time to get together  with her.

Another friend and co-worker, Jay, just got back from his rafting vacation but we haven’t had a chance to chat about that in any detail yet. I can’t wait to see his pictures and he says I can share them here. That will be a treat for us all, I am sure!

Well, sometimes it seems I spend more time making excuses and if I’d just taken that same time I would have had something to write but it’s just human nature, I guess.

I will be on my work schedule now for the next 2 days so I won’t have any time to go anywhere but maybe I can dredge something out of the archives that you might enjoy.

Or maybe I should remind you that you’re welcome to contribute too! I love your comments but you can also share you travel experiences too. Don’t be shy. Sometimes a fresh voice is just what’s needed. In the meantime I’ll share some photos from some of my jaunts. I’ve written about all of the trips shown in these photos but selecting the pictures makes me think that there may be more stories in them to share. Something to think about.

Well enjoy the pictures until I get my next post together. Remember my next trip is fast approaching and we know there will be a lot of things to share from that.

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