Mount Rushmore National Monument, South Dakota

Back when I wrote about the carving on Stone Mountain, Ga. I introduced you to mountain artist and sculpture, Gutzon Borglum. At that time I said we would meet up with Mr. Borglum again in a later post in South Dakota. Well, that time is now.

Gutzon Borglum is the man who made Mount Rushmore possible. Borgum explored mountains and spires through out the Needles and Black Hills before he spotted Mount Rushmore.

Once the mountain of granite was chosen, Borglum had to decide who would be on it. Borglum explained his choices this way: Washington because he is the father of our country, Jefferson because he expressed our beliefs in the Declaration of independence and expanded our territory with the Louisiana Purchase. Lincoln was chosen for preserving the union and Teddy Roosevelt because he fulfilled the expansionist’s dream by linking the oceans with the Panama Canal”

Periodically there are suggestions to add a 5th head but that can’t happen. The area of usable granite is taken up entirely by the existing 4 heads. The original vision was for the men to be full body but money was always an issue.

Go to the auditorium at Mount Rushmore and watch the film about the carving of the mountain. It is fascinating and educational.

When we arrived at Mount Rushmore we found a modern parking garage and visitor centers with cafeteria, auditorium and gift shops. It was cold and rainy and I believe I even saw a tiny snow flake or two. It certainly felt like it was cold enough.

I loved the Avenue of the States, the walkway lined with granite pillars. Each Pillar was carved with 4 states and the date they joined the union. Each State’s flag flies from the pillar. The view was just what you see in the Movie National Treasure, Book of Secrets with Nicolas Cage.

We followed the trail to the Native American village but it was closed. Still we took a moment to get some pictures. Then we followed the board walk up the mountain to get a bit closer to the monument itself. At one point there was a small side spur that led into a cave. You could see the carving through a crack in the cave ceiling. I met a couple of young men in the cave and we walked with them for a bit. When we came to the stairs up the face of the monument, Sandy and I decided to pass on the climb but our young escorts went on.

We went back down the boardwalk to have dinner in the cafeteria and warm up before we went to sit outside for the lighting of the Monument.

BoardWalk

Somehow, somewhere one of us had heard that this was quite spectacular . We still had time to spare and since it was quite cold outside we explored the book store and souvenir shops.

Washington's Head from inside the cave

 We finally ended up on the upper level of the visitor center. There were benches facing a large window through which you could see the carving. We could stay in here and be warm for the lighting but we wouldn’t be able to hear the ranger’s speech. I took advantage of the seating and sat down. As I looked up at the carving I thought I saw a flash of light like a camera flash. I kept watching the area and pretty soon I thought I saw someone step out in the open and then duck back behind a tree. This happened a couple of times so I spoke up and asked if anyone else had seen this. At first everyone told me it was my imagination but when it happened again I pointed it out.

By now everyone around me was watching the rubble under the faces where the “action”: was taking place. Once we saw this a couple of more times and it was confirmed that there was someone up there, one of the others watching went to the Ranger and asked him about it. He said they were aware of the climbers and that it was illegal to leave the path and climb out like that. A “retrieval” team was on it’s way to apprehend the trespassers. The Ranger said that fines for this violation start at $250.00. We learned the description of the 2 interlopers and it sounded suspiciously like our two young escorts! They will have a nice fine to remember their little adventure.

The rain was coming down harder now so I asked the ranger what to expect from the Lighting. He said it was a brief ceremony and then they turned on the lights so the monument could be seen in the dark. No fireworks, no lasers, just a few spotlights.

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I carried this information back to Sandy and we decided not to hang around any longer. It was a long drive back to Rapid City and the weather was turning very nasty. It turned out to be a very wet and rainy drive .

I’m glad we didn’t stay any later than we did.

Iron Mountain Road, Black Hills, South Dakota

Leaving the Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary we made one brief stop at Crystal Falls and headed north to have our “official” Mount Rushmore experience as opposed to our “Accidental” visit when we first got here.

Crystal Falls, SD

As we approached Custer State Park we were treated to a majestic buck and his entourage. I pulled over and grabbed the camera. That buck wasn’t intimidated at all. In fact, as I came around the car to get a better angle he actually stepped forward, head up as if he were challenging me. He stood and stared while I took picture after picture before he turned and led his little band off.

Mule Deer Buck

Mule Deer

As I returned to the car I noticed for the first time that we had company. Other cars had pulled over to watch this brazen buck. As I returned to the car, the other cars pulled out and passed me. I collected their waves and thumbs up with pleasure.

Back in the car we soon came to the entrance to Custer State Park. Going left into the Park would take us on the Wildlife Loop Road that we toured with Dan and going right would take us up Iron Mountain Road to Mount Rushmore. So today it was a right turn for us.

Iron Mountain Road is part of RT 16A and The Norbeck Scenic Byway which also includes the Loop road and Needles Highway. The road climbs steeply up the mountain through one lane tunnels, be sure you honk your horn, over pigtail bridges and around horseshoe curves. The pigtail bridges are really interesting as they go over their own road so as we went over the bridge we could look down on the cars that were following us up the mountain.

The tunnels are lined up so that they frame Mount Rushmore and it’s tempting to stop for a photo op. I’m sure some people do but that day the traffic was very steady and it didn’t seem safe to stop. Needless to say, I have no pictures of this drive. I had both hands on the wheel and Sandy was white-knuckled in the passenger seat. She doesn’t like heights and this road was playing right into her worst phobias. I think anyone prone to car sickness should avoid this route too but I had a great timeJ We saw some RV’s trying it on for size and I suppose if your really careful and have good brakes that you’ll be fine but I wouldn’t do it. I’d leave the RV at home and rent a car for the day to make the drive.

Mount Rushmore  from Norbeck Observatory Point

At the top of the mountain is The Norbeck Observation Point. It has a well paved parking lot and rest rooms. There’s a trail down to an observation deck with awesome views. It was really cold up there on the mountain so we didn’t linger for too long. Besides, we had a date with 4 handsome men on a mountain.

I am adding 1 more picture to this post even though it’s more of an “aside”. As we headed to Iron Mountain Road we spotted a field with both antelope and deer. It was the first time I had noticed both together like that and all I could think of was the song Home Home on the Range and the line..”where the deer and the antelope play”. So I just wanted to share.

Where the deer and the Antelope play

For more information and and couple of photos of Iron Mountain Road, I have included a link.  http://www.allblackhills.com/scenic_drives/iron_mountain_road.php

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Spanish Mares and Don Juan

We were headed off to another area of the Sanctuary where a band of Spanish mares and their stallion, Don Juan hang out. Krista told us that Don Juan was small but mighty, keeping a loyal band of followers in line.

She said the Spanish Horses all have bloodlines that go back to the horses brought to the New World by the Conquistadores which is how they got the name “Spanish”. They can be recognized because they all have distinctive markings on their legs similar to the stripes you see on Zebras. Some also have lines on their rumps similar to buckskin markings and many are dusky colored although that is not a color requirement.

Run Wild, Run Free

On the way we had the thrill of seeing a small band of horses doing what you dream of wild horses doing, running. Krista pulled over so I could get out and try for a picture. The horses were way out of range of my zoom but even so it is one of my favorite pictures right up there with the Prairie Dog with the flower. I am sharing the original which gives you some idea of the scale of the land and the cropped version that features the horses. I like both! What’s you favorite?

Race the wind

We stopped at one point so we could admire a beautiful dun colored mare that seemed to have all the markings Krista had been telling us about plus a little bird. Sometimes everything just comes together!

Mare & Bird Friend

 If you look closely you can see the stripes on this mares rear legs.

Spanish Mare

We found Don Juan and his band of mares at one of the artificial watering stations that are set up around the sanctuary. Krista said they have tank trucks that make the rounds and fill the water tanks daily. The color segregation continued in this band too.

Don Juan's Band At the water trough

 

Best Friends

 

Don Juan

As you can see, Don Juan has the spanish markings too.

That wrapped up our tour and we headed back to the welcome center. In the process we drove by the spot we had seen the loose horse when we came in. It was gone so the wrangler must have rounded her up. Nearby a tiny Western Bluebird fluttered to a stop and I was lucky enough to get a picture. We heard the meadowlarks here too. It’s such a beautiful area.

Western Bluebird

Back at the parking lot I spotted a chicken coop but the chickens were different than any I’d ever seen. Loads of fluffy little chicks were running around.

Little balls of Fluff

There was also a coop of albino peacocks. Krista had pointed those out when we started out. I wasn’t interested then. I just wanted to see the horses so I said I’d get a picture later…but I forgot. So you’ll just have to take my word for it. Krista said they were mean anyway J

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Leaving the Sanctuary we turned our sight toward Mount Rushmore, the main reason for the trip. We would be driving Iron Mountain road to get there. That was fun!

 Interested? The Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary can use our support. Check them out at www.wildmustangs.com

 

 

Native Americans, Petroglyphs and Birds

As we headed out to the next stop on Krista’s tour she told us we would be going by a sacred site that the Lakota were preparing for a Ghost Dance. She told us that most white people are not allowed to observe a Ghost Dance because parts of the ritual are very misunderstood. To be invited you have to be able to prove that you have a Native American bloodline. She said that when the sanctuary was created the Lakota was given the use of the land for their rituals and celebrations.

Lakota Prayer Pole

We could drive by and we could take pictures as we go by but we can’t stop. I got a picture of the prayer pole.

Soon we were pulling up in front of a huge cliff. Krista took us up to the cliff and pointed out the petroglyphs. She said one of the “glyphs” had paint on it so it would show up better so I took a picture of the blue paint spot hoping I would be able to see them once the picture was blown up.

Painted Petroglyph

Wall carving

There were “modern” petroglyphs too, better known as graffiti but as Krista pointed out some day they will be ancient too and if humans are still around, someone will be standing there marveling at these carvings from the mid 1900’s.

On this same cliff were swallow nests and you could see the little birds in them. I took lots of pictures of these little birds. I’ve never been this close to these mud nests before.

Swallow nests on cliff face

As we pulled onto the gravel road to head to the next stop we saw a little bird run in front of the car. Krista laughed and slowed down. She said it was a Killdeer and that it would race the car. I leaned out the window to take pictures of this little bird as it ran along side us. When it couldn’t keep up anymore it flew a few feet ahead of us and then started running along all over again.

Killdeer

Killdeer ready to race

We were headed over to see the Spanish Mares and their stallion Don Juan when we drove into a very active prairie dog town.

Prairie Dogs

 I told Krista I’d seen lots of Prairie Dogs but had yet to get a “Really Good” picture. She said we had time to stop so pulled over to see if we could get lucky here. As if to prove that this was the best opportunity a little “dog” popped up on my side of the car with a flower in it’s mouth. Krista was yelling…”Look at that!…Did you get ? Did you get the shot?” and then he was gone back into his burrow. You be the judge…Did I get the shot?

Prairie Dog with Flower

 

Next time, Spanish mares and Don Juan.

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Wild Horses!

Finally there they were! The main event! As we came out of a stand of trees and a field opened up in front of us we couldn’t miss them. They were everywhere.

Krista slowly drove the SUV right into the midst of them. I was surprised that they didn’t run or stampede or something. Krista said the recent rains had finally broken the drought and the hoses were gorging themselves like they were at an all you can eat buffet. With this banquet in front of them, they paid no attention to us as long as we moved slowly and quietly.

Krista pointed out that the horses seem to segregate themselves. The herd had many different colors and patterns from roan to pinto to white or black but within the herd each color pattern seemed to stay close to others of the same pattern.. I had never heard that before but as I looked I could see that Krista was right.

Krista let us get out of the car but told us not to approach the horses so we stayed close to the SUV. We didn’t want to disturb these beautiful animals. We just wanted to enjoy the sight.

Eventually Krista said we should move on. There was another herd she wanted us to see so it was back in the car. Over another hill and we slowly pulled into another herd. Here is where I got some of the best shots. These horses were busy eating too but they also showed more interest in us.

Some of these horses had birds riding on their backs. The birds eat the bugs and flies from the horses’ coats.. The color/pattern segregation continued in this band too.

Back in the SUV we followed tire tracks past more horses to a lookout over the Cheyenne River Valley. Krista explained that the Cheyenne bends back and forth 7 times so is considered sacred by the native people. She said some of the herds never cross the river. They stay in the rugged “wild side “ of the sanctuary and only come down to drink from the river. Today we didn’t see any. The river valley was quiet.

At this point Krista said she was going to take us to see the petroglyphs so it was back in the SUV.

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More on our Sanctuary visit in my next post.J