Skagway

Posted on June 14, 2013June 14, 2013 by Dusty Roads

By now you’ve had a glimpse of just some of the things to do in Skagway. Although the gold rush has been a theme in the other ports of call, Skagway, more than the others seem to embody those days. We loved the train and the Suspension Bridge, even the history of the garden and the role it played in providing fresh produce, all related back to the Gold Rush.

We were in port until 8PM so there was plenty of time to explore after excursion, had we been so inclined. However we were hungry having skipped the Quiche so we returned to the ship to eat and relax instead. Cruising is all about relaxing and we certainly embraced it this trip.

The town of Skagway is compact and easy to explore on foot. Everywhere you look you’ll see a celebration of the Gold Rush. It’s estimated that 40,000 prospectors passed through Skagway on the way to the Yukon Gold Fields. Most of Skagway actually falls with in Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park .

One of the places we didn’t see that would have been interesting was the boot hill of the Gold Rush…Gold Rush Cemetery, the final resting place of heroes and villains alike.

Another landmark, the Red Onion Saloon built in1897, still stands at the corner of 2nd and Broadway. It’s current owners aim to keep it’s frontier spirit intact.

While there be sure you hear about Soapy Sam. Soapy Sam was really named Jefferson Smith and he was a notorious con man who with his gang of 100 ruled Skagway in 1897 & 1898. Besides running a telegraph office with no telegraph lines and freight companies that never delivered. He used many different tricks to separate the honest folks from their hard earned money…none of it legal. He even maneuvered himself into being mayor. But like a good wild west tale, Soapy met his demise in a gunfight that pitted good against evil in the guise of Frank Reid (the good guy) against Soapy (the bad guy).

But no happy ending both Frank Reid and Soapy Sam lay dead at the end of the fight. Still the shoot out did free the town from the grip of these bad of outlaws ending the 2 year reign of terror.

One last thing to consider doing in Skagway…pan for gold. There are excursions that will give you that chance. I imagine that water will be mighty cold.

As we were relaxing in our stateroom Sandy stepped out to the balcony. All of a sudden she let out a yell demanding that I come quick. There was some animal down on the rocks! I couldn’t quite make it out at first so I ran back in for the binoculars. It turned out to be an otter. We watched it for a good 10 minutes as it wandered up a path and then came back down to the rocks again.

Finally is slipped into the water and swam off. Seeing that otter made up for skipping our visit to the town. If we’d gone back to explore some more after our late lunch we’d never have seen Mr. Otter! And for me….its all about the animals!

Alaska Garden Party

Posted on June 13, 2013June 13, 2013 by Dusty Roads

I went to a garden party To reminisce with my old friends A chance to share old memories And play our songs again When I got to the garden party They all knew my name No one recognized me I didn’t look the same

But it’s all right now I learned my lesson well You see, ya can’t please everyone So ya got to please yourself

People came from miles around Everyone was there Yoko brought her walrus

There was magic in the air ‘N’ over in the corner Much to my surprise Mr Hughes hid in Dylan’s shoes Wearing his disguise

But it’s all right now I learned my lesson well You see, ya can’t please everyone So ya got to please yourself

Lott-in-dah-dah lot-in-dah-dah-dah

It was all I could think of…Ricky Nelson’s song Garden Party. Here we were at a Garden Party in of all places, Alaska. Not the first thing you think of when you think about Alaska and we’d certainly come “from miles around” and catching up with my sister included “reminiscing “.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. The bus picked us up at the Yukon Suspension Bridge. As we made our way back to Skagway we followed a steep and winding road back through White Horse Pass. We were basically retracing the same path we’d taken on the train up the mountains.

We arrived at Jewell Gardens & Garden City Glassworks right on time. We stepped off the bus to be escorted right into a little enclosed area decorated like a garden shed.

We were served tea and salad, then the main course of quiche followed by desert. The tea was good and the salad was awesome. I passed on the quiche and I think I skipped desert as I can’t remember what it was.

Lunch finished we headed into the gardens themselves. According to our guide the spring weather was about 2 weeks late this year so they were just beginning to plant now. Because of the extended daylight the short growing season translates into gigantic plants. The gardens have been in Skagway since he gold rush when it was one of the few places the miners could get fresh produce.

One of the vegetables that grows extremely well here is rhubarb. We saw lots of rhubarb beds and vintage pictures lined the fences showing the huge rhubarb leaves. Rhubarb was the perfect plant because it’s high in vitamin C so kept the miners and residents alike from contracting scurvy over the long dark winter.

Flower beds and native trees were laid out in what is sure to be a beautiful design once the plants begin to bloom.

Glass decorations made in their own glass blowing shop accented the beds.

And speaking od beds, along the back of the grounds was a series of ramshackle sheds. In each shed was a bed frame with flower seedlings.

They were meant as a rather whimsical salute to the shacks the prostitutes used back in the day, the gardens’s “red light” district. 🙂

Speaking of whimsy, an elaborate model train was set up and ran all through the grounds. The town and it’s miniatures represented different events in Skagway’s history.

Last but not least we watched the glass blowing. I’ve seen glass blowing demonstrations before but never one that was so detailed and intricate.

The finished products were available for purchase in the gift shop.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I60XNolzxuI

Jewell Garden is a certified organic garden. We saw the compost heap to prove it! But seriously, their whole style is dedicated to this pure form of gardening and if the quality of the salad we had at lunch is any indication of what organic gardening can produce, well then, keep up the good work!

Welcome to the Yukon

Posted on June 12, 2013June 12, 2013 by Dusty Roads

Move over Dudley Do-Right!

We are standing in the famous Yukon Territory! ( Not really. Its actually British Columbia but don’t tell the tourists) There be gold in them thar hills! Or so the stampeeders believed but once they reached Lake Bennett with all of their supplies they had to wait for the snow to melt. Then they built rafts and waited for the Yukon River to melt. Once spring came, they sailed down the rapids into gold territory.

According to the exhibits located at the visitor Center , miners put boats in the Tutshi River near the canyon where the suspension bridge is today. Looking at the rapids as they swirled down under the bridge and beyond its hard to believe they could take fully loaded boats and survive. Many didn’t survive and many other lost everything except their lives.

Tutshi River and Canyon today is one of the top white water rafting spots of North America.

It was cold here. The wind was blowing. This is the start of spring in the north and it was cold. I’d tried to imagine how cold it must have been when the miners dragged their supplies here to wait for the spring thaw.

But enough exploring the exhibits. It was time to cross the suspension bridge. That was what we came here for. No chickening out.

This was a pretty sturdy bridge as suspension bridges go but when you got to the middle you were at the mercy of the wind that gained momentum as it raced down the canyon from the icy tops of the surrounding mountains.

On the far side of the bridge was a platform and at the rear of the platform a wooden boardwalk that led to a tiny cabin. Just the basic 4 walls,a stove for heat, a bed frame and a tub for washing if you dared; this tiny cabin illustrated the conditions the stampeeders experienced as they waited for spring.

Chilled to the bone we returned across the suspension bridge to the visitor center to warm up and explore the souvenirs. The hot chocolate was pretty good too.

This was where we had out passports stamped with the Yukon Suspension Bridge stamp.

Gateway to the Klondike

Posted on June 11, 2013June 11, 2013 by Dusty Roads

The ship arrived in Skagway in the wee hours of the morning or maybe it was night.

It’s getting harder and harder to tell with the late sunsets and early sunrises the farther north we go.

Skagway is located at the northern tip of Alaska’s Inside Passage.

As we roused ourselves for the day’s adventures we looked out on a busy dock with a rock wall to hold the bank in place.

Above the rock wall on the boulders embedded in mountainside we saw logos and ship’s names painted. The story is that when a crew likes the captain they come ashore and paint the ship’s ID on the rocks, the higher and more dangerous, the more the captain is esteemed.

After breakfast, with the all clear to go ashore, we headed down to find the excursion bus that would take us to the White Pass and Yukon Railroad.

We needed our passports because this adventure would take us into the Klondike region of Canada.

The train would take us through the White Horse Pass. During the gold rush in 1896 there wasn’t a train. The stampeeders ( prospectors) had to either take the Chilkoot Trail which was shorter but steeper or the White Horse Pass that was longer but summited lower at 2885 ft. Both ways were challenging and deadly. The Canadian Mounties waited at Lake Bennett to check supplies. Anyone without enough to survive was turned back at the border.

I can assure you the train was much easier but even today it was easy to see the challenge. We passed huge gullies and mountainsides as the train wound its way to the summit.

We passed over trestle bridges and passed into and out of fog banks and clouds.

Water poured down the mountainsides in everything from torrents to trickles as the snow on the peaks began its spring melt.

Pretty soon we had reached the snowline but even though we were traveling through snow the water continued its downward path. At times we were so close to the mountain side that a foolish person could have reached out and touched the rocks as they flew by…and lost a hand or arm had they been so careless.

At times we could see across the “gulch” where another train ahead of us was already traveling upward or maybe returning downward.

We could see where we would soon be. More than any place else that we’d been, this train ride captured the true wildness of the Alaska mountains.

I admit, I stood in the cold outside the car in an attempt to capture some of the fantastic wilderness that surrounded us. My efforts fell far short of what we actually saw. The fog or clouds (depending on who you ask) only added to the drama of the ride.

Once we arrived at Lake Bennett we had to wait for the Canadian Customs Agents. We were told not to speak unless spoken to, to have our passports out and open and to NOT TAKE ANY PICTURES!

2 Agents boarded and made their way down the aisle. They never smiled. They were quite intimidating. The only time they spoke was to ask a foreign visitor for his visa as well as his passport. He had the visas for his whole family so they checked all of them then left the train.

The bus was waiting to take us to the next stop, a suspension bridge. Everyone headed to the lake to take pictures but the bus driver rounded us up with promises that we’d be back and we could take pictures then. He said we had a schedule to keep.

Next Stop, Skagway!

Posted on June 10, 2013June 10, 2013 by Dusty Roads

It was All Aboard at 8pm in Juneau as the Island Princess prepared to set sail shortly thereafter. It was getting lighter every night with sunset getting later and later as we traveled farther north.

Juneau to Skagway 99 nautical miles speed 10.8 knots

Before we leave Juneau behind a few tid-bits about the Capital of Alaska;

1. There are no roads into or out of Juneau. The only way to access the capital is by air or sea. If you have a need to visit the capital for Official Business then the state of Alaska will pay for your trip in and back out of the city.

2. Juneau is the 3rd largest City in Alaska in spite of it’s access problems.

3. The area of Juneau is larger than that of Rhode Island and Delaware individually and almost as large as the two states combined.

4. Downtown Juneau sits at sea level, with tides averaging 16 feet.

5. Juneau is the only U.S. state capital located on an international border. (Canada to the east)

So with that bit of trivia out of the way we will cast off and sail through the Upper Lynn Canal. By morning we will be safely moored in the Port of Skagway.

Skagway gets it’s name from the Tlingit people: ” a windy place with white caps on the water.” We have a very full day excursion in Skagway. We’re riding the rails on the White Pass & Yukon Railroad, visiting a suspension bridge, and ending with a “Garden Lunch”.

The Garden Lunch has me worried because I don’t eat Quiche and it sounds as though that might be the only option. We’ll just have to see.