Totem Poles

Don’t feel bad if someone tells you you’re “low man on the totem pole.” Often, the most important figure can be found at the base, not on the top, as many believe. (Taken from the Port Guide of the Island Princess)

Alaska2013 140 copy

Ketchikan is home to the largest collection of totem poles in the world.

Alaska2013 183 copy

They stand sprinkled throughout the city, at Totem Bight State Park and at Saxman Native Village.

Alaska2013 171 copy

While we visited the Saxman Native Village we were invited to visit the carving shed, a large woodworking shop where totem poles and masks are carved by a master carver and his apprentices. Our interpreter joined us to give an explanation and answer questions.

Alaska2013 177 copy

The scent of the freshly carved wood permeates the carving shed with its fresh, clean smell. While we were visiting we had a chance to see a totem pole that was recently commissioned by a family in California. The carvings on the pole represented a baker and a wine maker. A figure is carved for each branch of the family. It is still a work in progress . The carving is still done by hand in the old tradition.

Alaska2013 173 copy

Nathan, the master carver, was in residence but could not be enticed to tell us the price tag on such a pole. His only comment was that “It was enough.” Nathan would not tell us how long it takes to carve a pole either. He is truly a man of few words.

Alaska2013 172 copy

A totem pole can identify a clan and placed by the front door of their lodge can tell the history of the clan.

Alaska2013 178 copy

Totem poles are erected for many reasons even to commemorate shameful events.
A potlatch was held in honor of Secretary of State Seward but when he did not reciprocate his ears and nose on his totem were painted red. A sign of disrespect. At one time his descendants asked how much it would cost to hold the potlatch now. When they were told the cost they decided to leave  the totem painted as is.

Alaska2013 181 copy

Saxman Native Village

Our choice for our Ketchikan shore excursion was a visit to the Saxman Native Village.

scan0010

Our tour vouchers were delivered to our stateroom. All of the information needed to locate our tour guide was listed on the voucher. At about 8am an announcement was made over the general PA system that permission had been received from the local authorities for passengers to disembark.

To leave the ship we needed our stateroom key and to get through the photo line. There’s always a photo op at each port of call with something that symbolizes where you are.

Ketchikan

Since Ketchikan is known for the bald eagles that feed on the salmon and the Lumberjack Show, it was fitting that our photo op was with an eagle and a lumber jack!

Ketchikan was living up to it’s billing as the rain capital of the U.S. as we met our bus driver and guide, Keith.

Alaska2013 170 copy

Saxman Village is 3 miles south of town. It’s a working Tlingit community with totem poles on display and a carver-in-residence. It was interesting to me that the natives don’t want to be referred to as Native Americans or Indians or Eskimos. They consider these terms derogatory. They prefer “First People” and trace their heritage back to the Athabaskans or “Na- Dene” meaning the people.

Once we arrived at the Village we followed Keith along a short path through the forest stopping from time to time to learn about the rainforest.

Alaska2013 137 copy

Keith pointed out a big leafy plant with yellow flowers. I didn’t take a picture because  I grew up with these plants but most of the others on the tour lined up to snaps photos. I borrowed one from the internet.

Skunk_Cabbage_-_Lysichitum_americanum-1649

These plants are  called skunk cabbage and they really do smell like a skunk. It seems this plant that I always considered a nuisance is really very important to the eco-system here.

As we stepped out of the forest we were facing the Beaver Clan House.

Alaska2013 138 copy

We entered a large auditorium where we met our Tlingit interpreter.

Alaska2013 174 copy

He explained a bit about the culture and language of his people before playing a video which explained the Tlingit history in the area. In general, Alaska Athabaskans occupied the vast interior coniferous forests. Only during the last 1,000 years did several Athabaskan groups move to coastal areas. There they occupied the shores of Cook Inlet in South central Alaska.

After the video we moved on to a large room where a modern Tlingit woman was sewing and beading ceremonial garments. We learned that this lady is our interpreter’s mother.

Alaska2013 136 copy

She had moccasins and hats on display for us to see and even hold and feel.

Alaska2013 134 copy

After about 15 minutes we moved on into the ceremonial room. Large and dimly lit this room held a stage where we would have the chance to see Tlingit ceremonial dances.

Alaska2013 142 copy

An elder made the introductions and the Cape Fox Dance Group took the stage.

Alaska2013 154 copy

Our interpreter was front and center but the children stole the show.

Alaska2013 145 copy

There were two, a young girl and a 3 year old boy.

Alaska2013 148 copy

The little boy was the son of the drummer and has been included in the dance ceremonies since he was two.

Alaska2013 169 copy

At the end of each dance the participants turned their backs to the audience. This was not to be rude but to show the embroidery on the back of their capes. These images represent the clan of the dancer. We were invited to take as many pictures as we wanted.

Alaska2013 155 copy

When it was time for the last dance the Tlingit asked for volunteers from the audience to dance with them. This is a great honor. The dance is not difficult.  Each volunteer was draped with a cape and the drumming began again.

Alaska2013 159a copy

The dancing ended when the participants danced off the stage and out of sight. An announcement was made to meet outside for the rest of the tour.

Day 3 ~ Ketchikan

Vancouver to Ketchikan    535 Nautical Miles        Speed 14.4 Knots

If Vancouver was considered our first port of call then Ketchikan is our first Alaskan Port of Call.

Alaska2013 099 copy

It’s still raining. That’s not too surprising because Ketchikan, besides being the “Salmon Capital of the World” is also the Rainfall Capital of the U.S. Ketchikan is located in what is sometimes called the “Banana Belt” of Alaska for it’s mild summer climate if you can tolerate the rain. They even have a Liquid Sunshine Gauge to measure the average rainfall which can reach 152 inches per year.

Alaska2013 097 copy

Ketchikan is located in the Tongass National Forest, part of a temperate rain forest that extends from Northern California through Southeastern Alaska creating a climate that allows for such majesty as the California Redwoods. Tongass is the earth’s largest  remaining temperate rainforest with over 17 million acres of forest and protected wildlife preserve.

Alaska2013 098 copy

Ketchikan sits on its own island, Revillagigedo Island. This is such a tiny town it would only take about an hour to explore it on foot. Most of the island is  a steep, craggy wilderness with the town hugging the shore. Most of the streets are built over a complex array of trestles and boardwalks.

Alaska2013 122a copy

Alaska2013 104 copy

From the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center to Misty Fjords there is so much to see in such a little town and so little time. We will only be in port for about 6 hours.

Alaska2013 105a copy

Speaking of Misty Fjords, this is a national Monument named for the weather conditions you are likely to encounter but the areas profound beauty has earned it the nickname of “Yosemite of the North”. Accessible only by floatplane or boat  put the cost of this excursion out of our range for this trip. According to the passengers that did go, it was well worth the money spent.

Alaska2013 100 copy

When in the Salmon capital it’s important to know that there are 5 different Species of wild pacific Salmon. To remember the 5 types of Salmon just raise your hand.

  1. Your thumb rhymes with Chum-Chum Salmon…Chum
  2. Your pointer finger can “sock” someone in the “eye” – sockeye Salmon…sockeye
  3. Your middle finger is the tallest – King Salmon…King
  4. Slip a silver ring on your ring finger – Silver Salmon…silver
  5. And your pinky –  well that’s easy – Pink Salmon…Pink

Ketchikan is sometimes called Alaska’s “First City  ” because  it’s the first major community travelers come to as they journey north.

Alaska2013 101 copy

Ketchikan was originally a summer fishing camp for the Tlingit (pronounced Kling-it). In 1883 a man by the name of “Snow” opened the first salmon saltery and a fishing town was born. When gold and copper were found in the surrounding mountains a supply center was needed and Ketchikan flourished.

Alaska2013 116a copy

Creek St, Ketchikan’s downtown section, is said to be the most photographed street in in Alaska! Now lined with shops and art galleries Creek St was once the town’s red light district.

Alaska2013 111a copy

Ketchikan was the first chance we had to learn about the cost of living in Alaska. Fresh produce is scarce and pricey and milk  can run as much as $6.00 / gal. As we rode in the tour bus along Creek street we spotted a “Burger Queen”. Ketchikan has a Family Dollar or should I say $1.29 store. It lasted as a dollar store about 30 days before the cost of shipping in goods forced a price increase. But the best example was the local Subway where you could enjoy the foot long special for only $9.00. (if you have a local Subway you know that’s a $5.00 ft. long in the lower 48)

Alaska2013 115 copy

Even souvenirs are not immune. If you are a plus size expect to pay a surcharge of $3.00 per T-Shirt!

Alaska2013 130 copy

Alaska2013 103 copy

Ketchikan is home to The Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show but we decided to explore the culture of the native  Tlingit people with a visit to the Saxman Native Village.

Alaska2013 131 copy

Day 2 at Sea

Last night after leaving Vancouver the Island Princess turned to starboard  at Point Atkinson passing into the Straight of Georgia. Had we been looking we might have seen Point Atkinson Lighthouse at the mouth of Burrard Inlet but we were either in the Princess theater or perhaps sleeping.

Alaska2013 081 copy

Alaska2013 080 copy

Once in the Strait of Georgia we are headed north to Alaska at last. Vancouver Island lies to the west along the port side  while the mainland and off shore islands of British Columbia lie to the east or starboard.  This is the beginning of the famous Inside Passage.

Alaska2013 082 copy

The Inside Passage stretches for over 1000 miles north providing an almost continuous protected route to Alaska. We are following the path of such notables as Captain Cook and naturalist John Muir.

Alaska2013 083 copy

Following our breakfast buffet at the Horizon Court on the Lido Deck we retired to the Lotus Spa for our massages. I’d like to say it was pure heaven but only if you sprinkle in a bit of pain. It had been many years since I have enjoyed a deep tissue massage and I had the knotted muscles to prove it. It took my masseuse a good deal of effort to work the kinks out of my shoulders and upper back…Ouch! but in the end I was moving better than I had in years. I may have to consider doing this more often.

Alaska2013 086 copy

Alaska2013 085 copy

A sea day is either boring (if you don’t like cruising) or relaxing. In our case the rainy, raw weather followed us out of Vancouver. This is when the cruise director and his staff can really shine. It’s up to them to have enough activities to keep even the most restless of their passengers amused.  On the Island Princess activities included a spinning class, yoga and zumba.

Alaska2013 087 copy

Shopping is also a big pastime. They even devote a channel to this subject on the ship’s TV lineup. Another big draw is gambling. The casino hosts a $500 Slot Tournament and later on a $60 Texas Hold’Em Tournament.  There’s also bingo and a ballroom dance class. Today’s lesson the Cha Cha. Around 3pm, if the Cha Cha wasn’t for you, a line dance class was being offered in the Universe Lounge, one of the entertainment venues.

Alaska2013 091 copy

Round out the activities with a presentation about the Glaciers by the naturalist on board, an afternoon trivia game or an afternoon tea in the Bordeaux dining room.

Alaska2013 094 copy

Dinner tonight was one of the 2 formal nights planned for our 7 day cruise. This was the one time we saw the photographers in the dining room taking formal portraits.

scan0007a

Our night wrapped up with the evening show “Motor City” which as you have probably guessed was a salute to MoTown. It was a great show.

For the night owls the partying continued with  a 2nd presentation of Motor City , more gambling tournaments, a dance party, a comedy show and movies under the stars. Never a dull minute.

Island Princess Revealed

Like all of the other cruise ships I have ever been on, the Island Princess was huge.

Alaska2013 126 copy

From Bow to stern the Island Princess measures 964.3 Ft.  Walk the halls back and forth just 3 times and you’ll almost have a mile! The ship is 105.6 ft. wide. She can carry a maximum of 2368 passengers and 810 crew members. The Island Princess first set sail in June of 2003.

The Island Princess has swimming pools. One is covered  but the other is in the open and eventually was drained as we cruised north and it got colder and colder.

Alaska2013 579 copy

Alaska2013 066 copy

Alaska2013 067 copy

There is a small casino.

Alaska2013 061 copy

Alaska2013 062 copy

A spa and beauty salon.

Alaska2013 599 copy

Multiple entertainment venues.

Alaska2013 055 copy

Movies under the stars (Even when it rain or so they claimed)

Alaska2013 068 copy

Restaurants

Alaska2013 054 copy

Open decks

Alaska2013 456 copy

Alaska2013 069 copy

An internet café…unfortunately because of the mountains the service was spotty and slow. I have an issue with paying for “minutes” when the service takes forever to connect. If the internet was fast I’d be the first to sign up. But I had to use it one day to answer just one work related email and it took 12 minutes of my 15 minute package to connect.

Alaska2013 056 copy

Alaska2013 060 copy

I remember my first cruise. I spent most of my cruise lost. The 2nd cruise was easier and I found this one easier still but Sandy was on her first cruise and the size of the ship and all it’s decks was like a maze to her. It all takes time. By the end of the cruise she’ll be an old hand at getting around.