Are we there yet?

Posted on June 25, 2013June 25, 2013 by Dusty Roads

By late afternoon we were well past the snow line and the title says it all…Are we there yet?

People were getting restless. We had tickets to the dinner show so we didn’t want to eat in the dining car again but Lynn said we were still several hours out. In fact we were running so late that they were going to hold the start of the show for us. She said we were stopping a lot to get animals off the tracks. Interesting because you’d think someone would see the animals running away from the train.

At another stop a couple of people got on to do a presentation about the Iditarod and dog sledding. I think they were pitching one of the tours that featured the dogs and mushing.

While they were doing their presentation more shouts went up. This time the shouts were “bears”. And sure enough there were 3 of them. (Photo compliments of the internet)

Goldie Locks and the 3 bears sprang immediately to mind too. They were quite far away on a still frozen river but they were identified as “grizzlies”. Probably a family group of a mother and 2 older cubs. They were too large to be this year’s cubs and mature males are solitary except during mating season.

The “mushers’ gave up trying to pitch their tour saying that they couldn’t compete with grizzly bears but they must have done a good job because we booked a tour and so did the couple we were sitting with, Robert and Julia.

We crossed a huge trestle bridge. Robert came back from the platform and said he’s gotten a shot as the train approached it. I took mine through the window and got the shadow and look at that gorge! I was a lot warmer than Robert when all was said and done. 🙂

Around dinnertime we ordered a snack of a cinnamon roll. It came warm, all gooey, melty goodness. 🙂 That should hold me until we get to the lodge!

Shortly after that we had another bit of excitement. Again the action was way off in a valley along another river. This time the excitement was caribou. Looks like just one here.

But look what you see when I really enlarge this picture! There’s a 2nd one heading into the brush.

We spotted 2 first and than a bit farther on another 2. At least this was making the ride more interesting.

Here it is enlarged. I’m showing both pictures so you get an idea of how tiny and far away they were from the train.

Finally we spotted some buildings. We thought sure they must be the lodge but we were told no but soon.

When we finally pulled into the depot we still had to load onto buses for the last leg of the journey. We were handed a packet with our room keys and a map so we didn’t have to go through check in. That saved some time as we hot-footed it to our room to drop off our carry-ons and turn around to get to the dinner theater.

No time for pictures, as the white rabbit once said “I’m late, I’m late, for a very important date.” But we did get waylaid for just that…a picture.

Once in the dinner theater the usher asked if we were from the train that had been held up by the landslide! So now it was a landslide not animals. I think they need to get their stories straight. 🙂 In any case, dinner was served family style and they started serving almost as soon as we were seated.

I don’t know about Sandy but boy, I was ready for a good meal!

Into the Interior

Posted on June 24, 2013June 24, 2013 by Dusty Roads

As we left the coast behind we moved through the Alaskan Tundra toward the Alaska Range and Mount McKinley also known as Denali. That can get confusing because Denali is also the National Park and a State Park. I’ll try to remember to make clear which one I’m referring to.

We weren’t seeing many bald eagles now and the reason we were given was that we were leaving the coast behind and bald eagles need the coastal waters and rivers to fish, salmon being a big part of thier diet. The higher into the mountains we traveled the more likely to see golden eagles which survive on small ground animals like squirrels or hares. (Don’t call them rabbits!)

The food and beverage service in the car seemed to be concentrated closer to the bar where several groups were keeping the attendant and bartender busy. The food menu in the car was quite limited so we decided to try the dining car which was really just the first level of our car. The restrooms were on that level too so about noon all 4 of us headed downstairs. Since we’d only have to climb over each other if we went at different times we thought it’d just be easier to all go together.

The menu in the dining car was also quite limited but that makes sense when you figure they have to bring all of the supplies for the whole trip. Eggs benedict seemed to be a featured item. I ordered what I thought was a crab cake lunch only to get crab cakes with eggs benedict piled on top. At least I wasn’t the only one who misunderstood the menu.

Back in our seats cries of “Moose” started going up. Most of the sightings were on the opposite side from us. I managed to stretch up far enough to see some of them but after 1 attempt to shoot over everyone’s heads and across the car and through the window I decided it just wasn’t going to work and gave up.

The moose on my side were a possibility but the angle of the sun made the reflections from the windows cause distortions in the pictures.

Our seatmate, Robert, came back up to say he had gotten some pictures from the platform but that it was really cold standing out there. We had a few stops with no explanations. After sitting still for 5-10 minutes at each unscheduled stop we’d start up again with no explanation.

Mount McKinley came into view in the distance. This is a rare sight from what we were told. The mountain is so high it makes it’s own weather and its almost always shrouded in clouds and fog. Over and over during our stay we were told that only about 30% of visitors ever get to see the mountain and how lucky we were.

Today it was really clear so everyone’s camera came out, including mine. Well almost everyone’s. We heard one husband complaining to his wife: ” You brought me all the way out here to see a mountain!” I guess the wonder that is Mount McKinley is lost on some people. 🙂

Grand Pacific Glacier

Posted on June 17, 2013June 17, 2013 by Dusty Roads

There was a time, many years ago, when Glacier Bay wasn’t a bay. It was an ice field. The bay was completely covered by miles of ice. As the ice receded the bay was formed and at the head of the bay we now have the spectacular Margerie Glacier.

But right next to Margerie Glacier, barely noticed because of its spectacular cousin, is a remnant of that Ice field. The Grand Pacific Glacier lies at the very head of the bay to the right of Margerie as you approach. It looks like land. It looks like dirt. It’s a black line as it reaches the shoreline.

No pretty blue ice for this granddaddy of glaciers but if it weren’t for this dark and unassuming glacier, we wouldn’t have the Glacier Bay of today. Back in the 1600’s the Grand Pacific Glacier made a final surge, tightening its grip on the area. Before its last push was done the valley was filled with up to 4000 ft. of ice. Then it began its retreat leaving the characteristic U-shaped trench which gradually filled with water giving us the spectacular beauty we see today.

At this time the Grand Pacific Glacier continues to retreat . As it does it grows Glacier Bay a little each day. Prediction are that by 2025 the Bay may extend another 12 miles.

As we left Glacier Bay we headed into the open waters of Prince Williams Sound. Our Princess Patter said to keep our eyes open for porpoise and other small dolphins but the more open waters of Prince William Sound also brought more wave action and the good ship Island Princess began to rock a bit. Not too bad but for someone prone to motion sickness enough to send me to my bunk. Sandy was fine but chose to stick close. I think she used the ship laundry while I rested. My case of sea sickness wasn’t severe, just enough to be uncomfortable.

By dinner time most of the discomfort had passed even though we could still feel the ship’s motion more than I expected from a ship her size. Looking out the windows we could see why. The waves were running 4-6 ft. They were beautiful and mesmerizing but I didn’t trust myself to watch them for too long. I didn’t want to get queasy again as tonight was lobster night. That’s my favorite dinner on these cruises.

I haven’t said too much about the food on board but most of the time it was quite good and there was always food someplace from the Horizon Grill to the Pizza stand to popcorn by the pool. You certainly don’t go hungry.

The dinners were excellent, for the most part. We had a wonderful scallop dinner one night and of course the lobster and prawns were out of this world. My Beef Medallions one night were very tough and almost inedible which I found surprising and on our last night I chose the “thanksgiving” dinner of roast turkey. The theme was American but it was obvious that the meal could not have been prepared by an American because it was the worst turkey dinner I have ever had. But that was an exception not the rule.

By tomorrow we would be in College Fjord so the ship should stabilize as the waters there would once more be protected. I am looking forward to that.

Alaska Garden Party

Posted on June 13, 2013June 13, 2013 by Dusty Roads

I went to a garden party To reminisce with my old friends A chance to share old memories And play our songs again When I got to the garden party They all knew my name No one recognized me I didn’t look the same

But it’s all right now I learned my lesson well You see, ya can’t please everyone So ya got to please yourself

People came from miles around Everyone was there Yoko brought her walrus

There was magic in the air ‘N’ over in the corner Much to my surprise Mr Hughes hid in Dylan’s shoes Wearing his disguise

But it’s all right now I learned my lesson well You see, ya can’t please everyone So ya got to please yourself

Lott-in-dah-dah lot-in-dah-dah-dah

It was all I could think of…Ricky Nelson’s song Garden Party. Here we were at a Garden Party in of all places, Alaska. Not the first thing you think of when you think about Alaska and we’d certainly come “from miles around” and catching up with my sister included “reminiscing “.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. The bus picked us up at the Yukon Suspension Bridge. As we made our way back to Skagway we followed a steep and winding road back through White Horse Pass. We were basically retracing the same path we’d taken on the train up the mountains.

We arrived at Jewell Gardens & Garden City Glassworks right on time. We stepped off the bus to be escorted right into a little enclosed area decorated like a garden shed.

We were served tea and salad, then the main course of quiche followed by desert. The tea was good and the salad was awesome. I passed on the quiche and I think I skipped desert as I can’t remember what it was.

Lunch finished we headed into the gardens themselves. According to our guide the spring weather was about 2 weeks late this year so they were just beginning to plant now. Because of the extended daylight the short growing season translates into gigantic plants. The gardens have been in Skagway since he gold rush when it was one of the few places the miners could get fresh produce.

One of the vegetables that grows extremely well here is rhubarb. We saw lots of rhubarb beds and vintage pictures lined the fences showing the huge rhubarb leaves. Rhubarb was the perfect plant because it’s high in vitamin C so kept the miners and residents alike from contracting scurvy over the long dark winter.

Flower beds and native trees were laid out in what is sure to be a beautiful design once the plants begin to bloom.

Glass decorations made in their own glass blowing shop accented the beds.

And speaking od beds, along the back of the grounds was a series of ramshackle sheds. In each shed was a bed frame with flower seedlings.

They were meant as a rather whimsical salute to the shacks the prostitutes used back in the day, the gardens’s “red light” district. 🙂

Speaking of whimsy, an elaborate model train was set up and ran all through the grounds. The town and it’s miniatures represented different events in Skagway’s history.

Last but not least we watched the glass blowing. I’ve seen glass blowing demonstrations before but never one that was so detailed and intricate.

The finished products were available for purchase in the gift shop.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I60XNolzxuI

Jewell Garden is a certified organic garden. We saw the compost heap to prove it! But seriously, their whole style is dedicated to this pure form of gardening and if the quality of the salad we had at lunch is any indication of what organic gardening can produce, well then, keep up the good work!

Haddam Pizza

Posted on April 19, 2013April 19, 2013 by Dusty Roads

Following my jaunt around Gillette Castle I decided it was time for lunch. My past experience with off-season dining around Haddam had not been good. So I was up for trying someplace a little different from sub sandwiches or Dunkin’ Donuts.

Right on Saybrook Road before you make the turn to the boat docks was a mostly one story building with the sign Haddam Pizza. When I made my reservation for the Riverquest Eagle and Osprey Boat trip there was an ad for Haddam Pizza on the receipt. It seemed as good a place as any to try for lunch. There were a few cars in the parking lot so I assumed it was open.

There were 2 doors, neither clearly marked as the main entrance so I used the one that seemed to have a path of sorts to identify it. It led me into the bar area. It’s a pretty nice bar with a nice atmosphere. As I stood looking around the bartender called to me across the room. With a wave of an arm she let me know I was free to sit anywhere.

I was also looking for the lady’s room. The men’s room was right there near the bar where I came in but I didn’t see any ladies room so I turned left down a corridor which opened into another seating area and counter space. The lady’s room was off this area. The 2nd door I had seen apparently opened into this area. People came in and out here to pick up their take out orders.

To the left off the corridor were booths and a fireplace. I slipped into the first booth and made myself comfortable. The first thing that hit me was the aroma. It was such an amazing mixture of tomato and garlic and cheese, nothing overpowering, it seemed almost to tickle my nose. I ‘ve been in many italian restaurants and pizza shops but this was a more subtle flavorful aroma. It was so nice I had to comment on it to the waitress.

As tempting as the aromas were I chose to try the fish and chips. Haddam is not far from Long Island Sound so I assumed they must get fresh fish. I continued to look around as I waited for my meal. They weren’t really busy by any means but there was a steady flow of customers, some like me chosing to sit at a booth or table and other picking up.

When my fish arrived it was lightly breaded and fried but there were no greasy puddles on the plate nor did any grease or oil drip out when I cut into the fish. Always a good sign! The fish itself was tender and white . The presentation was attractive too with a curled orange slice and a lettuce leaf along with the lemon wedges and a dash of paperika. The french fries were crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. No complaints there.

As for the service, the waitress was pleasant and attentive and I willingly left her a 20% tip. I would go back and although the fish was good, the aroma of that sauce has stayed with me and makes me think that next trip I’ll have to try something else. Pizza or an italian dish..not sure which, but I really want to taste that sauce!