Cades Cove, Worth a Return trip?

After my disappointing experience on the train I wanted to cheer myself back up. The rain had finally passed and the sun had come out. The lovely clouds that form in the valleys  had dissipated by the time I retrieved my car and started back to Gatlinburg so I made the return trip through Newfound Gap without lingering. As a result I was nearing the fork to Cades Cove while the sun was just dipping down toward the horizon. Do I take a drive through or not??? I decided that yes, I wanted one more visit.

It was later than my last trip so the shadows were longer in the fields and down right dark in the wooded areas. No bear this time but the deer were very active,

Tennessee2014 429a copy

At first I thought this one was a fawn with spots but it was really just the way its winter coat was shedding.

Tennessee2014 431a copy

This one is more like I’m used to seeing deer…in the woods, not the open meadows. I think it’s one of my favorite pictures.

Tennessee2014 440a copy

This one was taken in the woods right next to the car! It was so dark the picture almost didn’t come out. As it is there’s not much color to be seen.

Tennessee2014 437a copy

The males don’t seem as skittish as our local bucks. They are right out by the road.

Tennessee2014 441a copy

Glad I stopped.

 

The View from the Train

Once I moved to the open air car I had a chance of getting a few pictures. Good thing because I get very grumpy when I can’t take pictures!

I got the train going around a curve

Tennessee2014 414 copy

Another of the train going around the curve.

Tennessee2014 416 copy

Lake Fontana

Tennessee2014 418 copy

The Trestle Bridge

Tennessee2014 419 copy

Train going around a curve.

Tennessee2014 420 copy

Back of the train coming around the curve. See the little red caboose.

Tennessee2014 421 copy

Lots of foliage.

Tennessee2014 417 copy

Roaring Fork

The drive back from the Cataloochee was a challenge. At least I didn’t meet any cars as I wound my way back out the 11 + miles of twisty dirt roads. The GPS gets really mixed up in the mountains. At one point I was on a narrow paved road where the curves turned back on themselves so tightly that the GPS thought I’d stopped moving! But eventually I came out just above Gatlinburg. One minute I had no idea where I was and the next I was looking a the BBQ restaurant where I’d had dinner the night before! What a full day of adventure!

Tennessee2014 359 copy

The next morning wasn’t quite as promising. Dark rain clouds were threatening and the weather report placed the possibility of rain at 60%. I decided to take advantage of the diffused lighting to look for some of the waterfalls in the area. Just outside of Gatlinburg center is the Roaring Fork area.

Tennessee2014 363a copy

Take a left at the light near the Space Needle then a couple of blocks down you’ll find the sign for Roaring Fork on the right. Brace yourself. It’s another narrow, one lane road. Roaring Fork is known for gushing mountain streams, historic buildings and waterfalls. This is where you find the trailhead for the Trillium Gap Trail and Grotto Falls. The trail passes behind the falls and is said to be a fairly easy hike.

Tennessee2014 361 copy

I drove the one-way Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail twice trying to find a place to park to get to the Trillium Gap trail but it was packed. The only parking was over 1/2 mile down a hill from the trailhead. Then you had a 1.5 mile hike to get to the falls. I was disappointed. I really wanted to visit Grotto Falls. Everyone talks about it which is probably why there were so many people there even with rain threatening. I just didn’t feel my back would hold up to the hike especially when you added on the extra distance just to get to the trail head from the parking spot. I had hoped visiting before the main tourist season and a rainy day would mean fewer people but apparently not.

Tennessee2014 355a copy

That disappointment aside this is a great little road. The stream than follows the road or vice versa is lively and gives many opportunities for photos. It crisscrosses back and forth from left to right and back with little one lane bridges providing passage for the cars.

Tennessee2014 358 copy

Near the end of the drive is a waterfall called  Place of a Thousand Drips. This is known as a “wet weather” waterfall. During stormy weather this waterfall is said to be dramatic. Since it was only threatening to rain it had only moderate flow when I was there. Another visitor said the area had experienced a very dry spring as well. Even so, the Place of A Thousand Drips is a really nice waterfall.

Tennessee2014 368a copy

 

Cataloochee

Well here I am. Sitting in the car waiting for sunset and ELK. I’ve finally reached the  Cataloochee. As sunset approached I decided to drive back through the valley. Near the little bridge the park service had erected rest rooms. I decided it might be wise to take advantage of them. When I returned to my car I spotted one of the rangers. At first he wagged a finger at me and said “Still too early” but then he must have felt bad for me because he had a change of heart.

Tennessee2014 303 copy

He told me there were 2 elk out by the “Old Palmer Place”.  He sent me back out through the gates where I found another dirt road to my left. About a mile down the road there was a farm house and right there I saw my first Elk in the wild.

Tennessee2014 304 copy

The Catloochee delivered as promised!

Tennessee2014 318a copy

Meanwhile back at the trail head, the herd arrived.

Tennessee2014 330 copy

Tennessee to North Carolina

A new day and another bright blue sky! So far the weather has been wonderful. I pulled out the Auto touring maps and decided to try the Newfound Gap Road. Just like a cove is another name for a valley in the vernacular of southern Appalachia, a “gap” is a low point along a ridge  or mountain range.

Tennessee2014 223a copy

The old road over the Smokey Mountains was at Indian Gap. When a lower , easier crossing was discovered it became the “Newfound” gap. Starting in  Gatlinburg you will climb approximately 3,000 feet passing through  hardwood, pine-oak and finally the evergreen- spruce- fir forest at the Newfound gap (5,046 ft.)

Tennessee2014 226 copy

Here on the Newfound Gap road it wasn’t wildlife that held your attention.

Tennessee2014 231 copy

It was the mountains. The vastness, the climb, the view to the valley below.

Tennessee2014 254 copy

At one of the many pull offs I marveled over the twists and turns of the road below me, the one I’d just traveled without a thought.

Tennessee2014 253 copy

A large parking area, a observation platform, restrooms and an entrance to the Appalachian trail all straddle the Tennessee / North Carolina State line.

Tennessee2014 267 copy

Tennessee2014 273 copy

Tennessee2014 260 copy

Tennessee2014 261 copy

Leaving the parking area and Tennessee behind you have a chance to detour up to Clingman’s Dome.

Clingman’s Dome Road climbs about 7 miles to within  1/2 mile of the highest peak in the Smokies (6,643 ft.) There’s a large parking area and restrooms where you can leave you car to hike the last half mile to the top of Clingman’s Dome and the observation tower. Everybody sing “On top of Old Smokey”. 🙂

Great Smoley Mountains 3 copy

Once you leave Clingman’s dome and head back down whether to Cherokee in North Carolina or back to Gatlinburg in Tennessee, it’s literally all down hill.

I continued toward Cherokee. I figured I’d arrive there about lunchtime and could decide where to go next while I enjoyed my lunch.

That proved to be a good choice. I continued to read my Auto touring guide over a sandwich at a very nice restaurant right on the main road.  The number 5 tour was the Cataloochee and from the looks of the map it might not be too far. AS I checked out and paid my bill I asked the cashier.

He told me it was still quite a hike out there and if I wanted to wait around I might see elk behind the high school right here in Cherokee. But if I was dead set on going to the Cataloochee all I had to do was follow Rt 19 through Maggie Valley to RT 278 and then watch for the signs. He suggested I get there between 5:30 and 7:30.

Seemed like a good idea to make the trip now since I was more than 1/2 way there already.