Day 4 ~ Juneau

Posted on June 3, 2013June 3, 2013 by Dusty Roads | 6 Comments

Up early for our shore excursion, we headed to the Horizon Court for breakfast. As we sat by the windows looking out at the side of Mount Roberts we spotted 2 bald eagles soaring almost at eye level! They would fly around a bit and then land in the trees and sit for a little while then take off and do the whole thing again. I wondered if we could see any of the eagles from our balcony.

Breakfast over we hurried back to get ready for the shore excursion and check out the balcony view of the mountain. Sure enough there was a bald eagle perched on a tree top right across from our balcony.

Even so it was way too far for my normal lens. I first tried to hand hold the telephoto but I wasn’t quite steady enough. Then I tried using the tripod. What I forgot was that there was a vibration from the ship so I still got motion blur.

Frustrated I put the telephoto away because it was time to meet our guide for our shore excursion.

Today we are going whale watching and visiting the Mendenhall Glacier. If the weather clears after our morning we might take the tram up Mount Roberts.

The announcement that we had permission to go ashore finally came and we headed out to meet our guide. To our surprise Phil, our guide, said we were going on the whale watch first.

That was ok just a surprise based on the tour description. Still it probably all has to do with what the weather is like. When we left the ship there were some clouds but it looked like we might finally see some sun as the day progressed.

We piled onto the bus and were soon on our way to the marina at Auke Bay where we spotted another bald eagle perched on a pole. As we waited for directions from Phil another bald eagle swooped down toward the water then right back up and over our heads. Breath-taking!

I kept one eye on the eagle on the pole as we approached the whale boat. I was fascinated that It hadn’t flown away.

The Whale boat was enclosed so the passengers would be protected from the cold wind but it made pictures impossible through the scratchy, cloudy glass. The captain was in touch with other boats to make it easier to find the whales. Once we spotted a spout Phil promised to open the windows and hatches to the bow and stern.

As we cruised out into the open water Phil gave us a lesson on whales using little plastic models.

We saw a pair of eagles perched on some rocks.

Other eagles soared over the boat the way sea gulls fly over them here at home. Off in the distance we could see 2 glaciers.

One was identified as Herbert Glacier, the other one as Eagle Glacier.

All eyes were on the waves looking for that first blow but so far nothing. Then we spotted a buoy. Something was definitely on it.

Obviously it couldn’t be a whale. As the captain maneuvered the boat closer to the buoy Phil opened the windows and we looked at some big guys…Stellar Sea Lions, no little harbor seals here.

There were some in the water too but no room for anymore on that buoy. We took our time watching the sea lions until the captain got a call that some whales had been spotted out by the lighthouse.

Phil closed the windows and those of us standing outside came in to take our seats and we were off to try to catch up with the elusive humpbacks.

Totem Poles

Posted on June 2, 2013June 2, 2013 by Dusty Roads

Don’t feel bad if someone tells you you’re “low man on the totem pole.” Often, the most important figure can be found at the base, not on the top, as many believe. (Taken from the Port Guide of the Island Princess)

Ketchikan is home to the largest collection of totem poles in the world.

They stand sprinkled throughout the city, at Totem Bight State Park and at Saxman Native Village.

While we visited the Saxman Native Village we were invited to visit the carving shed, a large woodworking shop where totem poles and masks are carved by a master carver and his apprentices. Our interpreter joined us to give an explanation and answer questions.

The scent of the freshly carved wood permeates the carving shed with its fresh, clean smell. While we were visiting we had a chance to see a totem pole that was recently commissioned by a family in California. The carvings on the pole represented a baker and a wine maker. A figure is carved for each branch of the family. It is still a work in progress . The carving is still done by hand in the old tradition.

Nathan, the master carver, was in residence but could not be enticed to tell us the price tag on such a pole. His only comment was that “It was enough.” Nathan would not tell us how long it takes to carve a pole either. He is truly a man of few words.

A totem pole can identify a clan and placed by the front door of their lodge can tell the history of the clan.

Totem poles are erected for many reasons even to commemorate shameful events.
A potlatch was held in honor of Secretary of State Seward but when he did not reciprocate his ears and nose on his totem were painted red. A sign of disrespect. At one time his descendants asked how much it would cost to hold the potlatch now. When they were told the cost they decided to leave the totem painted as is.

Saxman Native Village

Posted on June 1, 2013June 1, 2013 by Dusty Roads

Our choice for our Ketchikan shore excursion was a visit to the Saxman Native Village.

Our tour vouchers were delivered to our stateroom. All of the information needed to locate our tour guide was listed on the voucher. At about 8am an announcement was made over the general PA system that permission had been received from the local authorities for passengers to disembark.

To leave the ship we needed our stateroom key and to get through the photo line. There’s always a photo op at each port of call with something that symbolizes where you are.

Since Ketchikan is known for the bald eagles that feed on the salmon and the Lumberjack Show, it was fitting that our photo op was with an eagle and a lumber jack!

Ketchikan was living up to it’s billing as the rain capital of the U.S. as we met our bus driver and guide, Keith.

Saxman Village is 3 miles south of town. It’s a working Tlingit community with totem poles on display and a carver-in-residence. It was interesting to me that the natives don’t want to be referred to as Native Americans or Indians or Eskimos. They consider these terms derogatory. They prefer “First People” and trace their heritage back to the Athabaskans or “Na- Dene” meaning the people.

Once we arrived at the Village we followed Keith along a short path through the forest stopping from time to time to learn about the rainforest.

Keith pointed out a big leafy plant with yellow flowers. I didn’t take a picture because I grew up with these plants but most of the others on the tour lined up to snaps photos. I borrowed one from the internet.

These plants are called skunk cabbage and they really do smell like a skunk. It seems this plant that I always considered a nuisance is really very important to the eco-system here.

As we stepped out of the forest we were facing the Beaver Clan House.

We entered a large auditorium where we met our Tlingit interpreter.

He explained a bit about the culture and language of his people before playing a video which explained the Tlingit history in the area. In general, Alaska Athabaskans occupied the vast interior coniferous forests. Only during the last 1,000 years did several Athabaskan groups move to coastal areas. There they occupied the shores of Cook Inlet in South central Alaska.

After the video we moved on to a large room where a modern Tlingit woman was sewing and beading ceremonial garments. We learned that this lady is our interpreter’s mother.

She had moccasins and hats on display for us to see and even hold and feel.

After about 15 minutes we moved on into the ceremonial room. Large and dimly lit this room held a stage where we would have the chance to see Tlingit ceremonial dances.

An elder made the introductions and the Cape Fox Dance Group took the stage.

Our interpreter was front and center but the children stole the show.

There were two, a young girl and a 3 year old boy.

The little boy was the son of the drummer and has been included in the dance ceremonies since he was two.

At the end of each dance the participants turned their backs to the audience. This was not to be rude but to show the embroidery on the back of their capes. These images represent the clan of the dancer. We were invited to take as many pictures as we wanted.

When it was time for the last dance the Tlingit asked for volunteers from the audience to dance with them. This is a great honor. The dance is not difficult. Each volunteer was draped with a cape and the drumming began again.

The dancing ended when the participants danced off the stage and out of sight. An announcement was made to meet outside for the rest of the tour.

Day 3 ~ Ketchikan

Posted on May 31, 2013May 31, 2013 by Dusty Roads

Vancouver to Ketchikan 535 Nautical Miles Speed 14.4 Knots

If Vancouver was considered our first port of call then Ketchikan is our first Alaskan Port of Call.

It’s still raining. That’s not too surprising because Ketchikan, besides being the “Salmon Capital of the World” is also the Rainfall Capital of the U.S. Ketchikan is located in what is sometimes called the “Banana Belt” of Alaska for it’s mild summer climate if you can tolerate the rain. They even have a Liquid Sunshine Gauge to measure the average rainfall which can reach 152 inches per year.

Ketchikan is located in the Tongass National Forest, part of a temperate rain forest that extends from Northern California through Southeastern Alaska creating a climate that allows for such majesty as the California Redwoods. Tongass is the earth’s largest remaining temperate rainforest with over 17 million acres of forest and protected wildlife preserve.

Ketchikan sits on its own island, Revillagigedo Island. This is such a tiny town it would only take about an hour to explore it on foot. Most of the island is a steep, craggy wilderness with the town hugging the shore. Most of the streets are built over a complex array of trestles and boardwalks.

From the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center to Misty Fjords there is so much to see in such a little town and so little time. We will only be in port for about 6 hours.

Speaking of Misty Fjords, this is a national Monument named for the weather conditions you are likely to encounter but the areas profound beauty has earned it the nickname of “Yosemite of the North”. Accessible only by floatplane or boat put the cost of this excursion out of our range for this trip. According to the passengers that did go, it was well worth the money spent.

When in the Salmon capital it’s important to know that there are 5 different Species of wild pacific Salmon. To remember the 5 types of Salmon just raise your hand.

Your thumb rhymes with Chum-Chum Salmon…
Your pointer finger can “sock” someone in the “eye” – sockeye Salmon…
Your middle finger is the tallest – King Salmon…
Slip a silver ring on your ring finger – Silver Salmon…
And your pinky – well that’s easy – Pink Salmon…

Ketchikan is sometimes called Alaska’s “First City ” because it’s the first major community travelers come to as they journey north.

Ketchikan was originally a summer fishing camp for the Tlingit (pronounced Kling-it). In 1883 a man by the name of “Snow” opened the first salmon saltery and a fishing town was born. When gold and copper were found in the surrounding mountains a supply center was needed and Ketchikan flourished.

Creek St, Ketchikan’s downtown section, is said to be the most photographed street in in Alaska! Now lined with shops and art galleries Creek St was once the town’s red light district.

Ketchikan was the first chance we had to learn about the cost of living in Alaska. Fresh produce is scarce and pricey and milk can run as much as $6.00 / gal. As we rode in the tour bus along Creek street we spotted a “Burger Queen”. Ketchikan has a Family Dollar or should I say $1.29 store. It lasted as a dollar store about 30 days before the cost of shipping in goods forced a price increase. But the best example was the local Subway where you could enjoy the foot long special for only $9.00. (if you have a local Subway you know that’s a $5.00 ft. long in the lower 48)

Even souvenirs are not immune. If you are a plus size expect to pay a surcharge of $3.00 per T-Shirt!

Ketchikan is home to The Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show but we decided to explore the culture of the native Tlingit people with a visit to the Saxman Native Village.

Day 2 at Sea

Posted on May 30, 2013May 30, 2013 by Dusty Roads

Last night after leaving Vancouver the Island Princess turned to starboard at Point Atkinson passing into the Straight of Georgia. Had we been looking we might have seen Point Atkinson Lighthouse at the mouth of Burrard Inlet but we were either in the Princess theater or perhaps sleeping.

Once in the Strait of Georgia we are headed north to Alaska at last. Vancouver Island lies to the west along the port side while the mainland and off shore islands of British Columbia lie to the east or starboard. This is the beginning of the famous Inside Passage.

The Inside Passage stretches for over 1000 miles north providing an almost continuous protected route to Alaska. We are following the path of such notables as Captain Cook and naturalist John Muir.

Following our breakfast buffet at the Horizon Court on the Lido Deck we retired to the Lotus Spa for our massages. I’d like to say it was pure heaven but only if you sprinkle in a bit of pain. It had been many years since I have enjoyed a deep tissue massage and I had the knotted muscles to prove it. It took my masseuse a good deal of effort to work the kinks out of my shoulders and upper back…Ouch! but in the end I was moving better than I had in years. I may have to consider doing this more often.

A sea day is either boring (if you don’t like cruising) or relaxing. In our case the rainy, raw weather followed us out of Vancouver. This is when the cruise director and his staff can really shine. It’s up to them to have enough activities to keep even the most restless of their passengers amused. On the Island Princess activities included a spinning class, yoga and zumba.

Shopping is also a big pastime. They even devote a channel to this subject on the ship’s TV lineup. Another big draw is gambling. The casino hosts a $500 Slot Tournament and later on a $60 Texas Hold’Em Tournament. There’s also bingo and a ballroom dance class. Today’s lesson the Cha Cha. Around 3pm, if the Cha Cha wasn’t for you, a line dance class was being offered in the Universe Lounge, one of the entertainment venues.

Round out the activities with a presentation about the Glaciers by the naturalist on board, an afternoon trivia game or an afternoon tea in the Bordeaux dining room.

Dinner tonight was one of the 2 formal nights planned for our 7 day cruise. This was the one time we saw the photographers in the dining room taking formal portraits.

Our night wrapped up with the evening show “Motor City” which as you have probably guessed was a salute to MoTown. It was a great show.

For the night owls the partying continued with a 2nd presentation of Motor City , more gambling tournaments, a dance party, a comedy show and movies under the stars. Never a dull minute.