Category Archives: scenic drives

In the Cauldron Boiling and Bubbling

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A Boiling, Bubbling Brew

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Apologizes to Shakespeare (and Macbeth), but boiling, bubbling cauldrons are what went through my mind at the Fountain Paint Pots Loop Trail. This area has it all, mud pots, geysers, hot springs and fumaroles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fountain Paint Pots Loop Trail

That’s a mouthful. Good thing the trail is shorter than the name. Its only about .5 miles to complete the whole loop. It does have a slight elevation of about 50 ft. Plus the trail is a well maintained boardwalk making the walking easy.

Celestine Pool

Celestine pool

It was pretty windy the day I was there and the wind had a real “bite” to it. As I started up the boardwalk I passed a large, quiet pool named the Celestine Pool.  Don’t be fooled by its tranquil, steaming surface. In 1981 a young man and his dog both died here. The dog jumped into the steaming waters and the young man followed to save it. Neither survived the scalding water.

I wandered along for a few more yards then decided to save the rest of the trail for a warmer day. The wind was blowing the clouds of steam away from me so I was getting the full force of the cold without the tempering of a steam cloud. Sadly I didn’t make it to the boiling mud pots this trip.

 

Firehole Canyon DrFirehole Canyon Drive and Waterfall

Back in the parking lot I considered my options. Time to head more north to another loop road. This one is called Firehole Canyon Dr. The road is a 2 mile one-way drive through the Firehole River’s canyon. Here I found another waterfall. This one is the 40 ft. Firehole Falls. With it’s canyon walls and rushing currents it’s not a quiet , peaceful falls. This waterfall has a roaring energy.

 

 

Firehole River falls

There is a small parking area near the falls but no sidewalks on the side of the road closest to the falls. No one seems to let that stop them, myself included, as we jockey for the best photo we can get.

Firehole Falls

A little farther on you can go swimming in the river if you dare. There is parking and a set of stairs down to the river. I bet it’s a nice spot on a hot summer day.

Firehole falls flows over the boulder

Side trip of Geysers and Hot Springs

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Geysers abound on Firehole Lake Dr.

Just past Midway Geyser basin is Firehole Lake Dr. The concierge stressed that I should be sure to take this side loop.  At first I thought it was just more thermal features. But it turned out to be a great drive.

Unforgiving Landscape

 

Great Fountain GeyserGreat Fountain Geyser

I missed Great Fountain Geyser. I think it had just gone off. I could see the steam clouds ahead of me but when I got there it was over. This is one of the four  highest spouting geysers in Yellowstone. It’s fairly regular too but where I’d just missed it I’d have about 12 hours to wait for the next eruption so I waved at the steam and moved on.

White Dome Geyser

Eruption Begins at White Dome

I passed some steaming lakes and springs then turned a corner to spot a geyser that had built up quite a cone at the base. This is White Dome Geyser. According to my Gaperguide the eruption cycle is about 10 minutes so I pulled over to go on Geyser watch. It must have just gone off before I arrived because it took the full 10 minutes before erupting. I was much closer to White Dome than I had been to Old Faithful so in some ways this was more exciting.

White Dome Plume of Steam

There’s a board walk that goes around the base of this geyser. Some tourists were reading the information boards when it went off. Their reaction was priceless. I guess if I’d been sanding there and been surprised I’d have looked funny too!

An Active geyser

Paint Pots or Ravens

Fountain FlatsAs White Dome subsided I moved on. I drove past more steaming hot springs and possibly some geysers. I passed Firehole Lake. Looks inviting but you’ll scald you skin off!  As Firehole Lake Dr connected with the main loop road I spotted a sign for Fountain Paint Pots. I was anxious for a chance to try photographing those bubbling mud holes.

In the large parking lot I was greeted by a huge raven. These large “crows” are everywhere around Yellowstone and this fellow Pretty Ravenwas particularly friendly. After a brief chat with Mr. Raven I followed a long boardwalk out of the parking lot past steaming hot pools of water. I didn’t see any bubbling mud. And the wind was cold!

Next Stop: Lewis Falls

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Lewis Falls is just a 30 Ft Cascade

Parking for Lewis Falls is mostly by the roadside. Its just a short walk up a slight incline to a rocky outcrop with a good view of the falls. Even I was up to this much. I skipped the rocky trail that takes you right to the falls. It looked a bit slippery and icy from the snow in the area. I’d skipped this stop the day before because there were so many people. This early I was the only one here. Lewis falls 30 ft cascade

Lodgepole pines frame the waterfallNamed for Meriwether Lewis

Just as the Lewis River is named for Meriwether Lewis so too is the falls unless you want to say its named for the river. Even with the frothing cascade it’s hard to believe this river is carving out a 400 ft canyon just a little way downstream! On the opposite side of the road from the falls the river spreads out to a wide calm river meandering through a peaceful meadow. I’m told this is a great place to look for moose but the meadow was empty when I was there.

Standing in a Volcano

Everyone knows that Yellowstone is a super volcano but within that giant caldera are numerous vents and smaller caldera. It’s these features that create the bubbling hot springs, geysers and mud pots. According to the Yellowstone Guide Yellowstone Treasures by Janet Chapple, Lewis Falls marks the southern boundary of the caldera. I think she means the super volcano caldera. My Gaperguide talked about the road following the rim of the caldera so I think they are the same thing. Kind of amazing to think you are in such a huge active volcano.

Take a minute to Fish

The day before I spotted an angler perched on the overlook. He was whipping his fly rod back and forth and finally the line soared out in a graceful arch. I couldn’t do that if my life depended on it. It seems that most of the rivers are restricted to fly fishing. Check with the local rangers for rules and permits before you give it a try. Snow in the forest near the falls  

Is there a Photo Opportunity Here?

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Moose are high on my Photo Wish List

A moose photo is a challenge, at least for me. They are solitary creatures. Moose are the largest species in the deer family. The males have huge flat antlers. Other members of the deer family have treelike branching antlers. Moose are called Twig Eaters. It’s their ability to survive on twigs and browse that gave them this nick-name but they are also well known for eating tons of  aquatic plants when they can find them. My first moose picture was in Maine in the summer of 2012.

Nice moose – bad picture. My 2nd chance came in Alaska in 2013 from a moving bus while the moose scrambled up a dirt bank.

Is this my chance for The Moose Picture?

If you’ve followed my blog for long you know that I went to Maine in June of this year (2017) to try to get an iconic moose photo for my wildlife collection. I saw moose but they were pretty mangy looking.

A Moose heading for the trees

They were also by the side of the road. One thing about wildlife photography is that there’s a lot of luck involved. You need to be in the right place at the right time and hope the animals cooperate. Now here I was once again on the side of a road, camera in hand, hoping for that picture that would let me cross MOOSE off my list.

It’s a Moose on the Loose

As I reached Gros Ventre I ran into the biggest traffic jam yet. I kept driving but very slowly. I didn’t see anything. Then about halfway down the gauntlet of cars I saw it, a massive bull moose. He was in no hurry, or so it seemed. I saw the antlers first. The afternoon sun reflected off them but his dark coat seemed to blend into the brush. I expected him to head for the hills.

Come on Mr. Moose

Hey Mr. Moose give me a something worthwhile. I tried. He was certainly handsome enough. A nice shiny coat, big antlers and he was just strolling along. I snapped picture after picture but I just couldn’t capture the image I was looking for. I guess my moose photo quest will continue.

The Herd at Elk Flats Ranch

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Is that a Herd of Cows?

I’d just reached the open land of Elk Flat Ranch when I spotted a herd of something. The dark spots were scattered across the landscape. At first I thought they were cows, after all this is cow country. A lone car was pulled over while the driver scanned the horizon. Maybe there was more there than meets the eye so I stopped too. Good thing I did. I was about to see 3 of the major herd animals all in one place. The black spots I thought were cows were actually bison!

Bison and Elk at Elk Flats Ranch

B is not just for bears

Not just for bears, B can be for Buffalo or more correctly Bison. Those dark spots I was watching turned out to be bison. As I watched them I saw some other movement in the herd that didn’t seem to flow with the bison. I’d forgotten to pack my binoculars so I grabbed the camera. Not as much magnification as I’d have with binoculars but better than my naked eyes. Right in the middle of the Bison herd was a small herd of Elk.

Elk on the run

Elk & Bison herd

The elk herd consisted of several females and at least 2 bulls. The bulls were a mismatched pair, one set of antlers much larger than the other. The bigger bull seemed to be bullying the smaller one. Both were running circles around the females. It was like watching a National Geographic wildlife special for real! But wait, there’s something else moving in that herd and it’s not a bison or an elk.

Prong Horn Antelope too

On the outskirts of the combined Bison/Elk herd I spotted two moving objects that were much lighter in color and moved very differently than the lumbering buffalo or the elegant elk. It’s a pair of prong horn antelope. Could this be where the “deer and antelope play”? The prong horns seemed to be  with the herd and yet apart as they bounced around the fringes. Soon they would be joining other prong horns to start their annual migration.

Prong horn join the mixed herd

From zero to 4 in 30 minutes

From no animals to 4 different species in about 30 minutes! Bears, bison, elk & prong horn. Not bad for the afternoon! But I still have about 50 miles to go to get back to the Teton Club. Maybe there’s more in store.