Iron Mountain Road, Black Hills, South Dakota

Leaving the Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary we made one brief stop at Crystal Falls and headed north to have our “official” Mount Rushmore experience as opposed to our “Accidental” visit when we first got here.

Crystal Falls, SD

As we approached Custer State Park we were treated to a majestic buck and his entourage. I pulled over and grabbed the camera. That buck wasn’t intimidated at all. In fact, as I came around the car to get a better angle he actually stepped forward, head up as if he were challenging me. He stood and stared while I took picture after picture before he turned and led his little band off.

Mule Deer Buck

Mule Deer

As I returned to the car I noticed for the first time that we had company. Other cars had pulled over to watch this brazen buck. As I returned to the car, the other cars pulled out and passed me. I collected their waves and thumbs up with pleasure.

Back in the car we soon came to the entrance to Custer State Park. Going left into the Park would take us on the Wildlife Loop Road that we toured with Dan and going right would take us up Iron Mountain Road to Mount Rushmore. So today it was a right turn for us.

Iron Mountain Road is part of RT 16A and The Norbeck Scenic Byway which also includes the Loop road and Needles Highway. The road climbs steeply up the mountain through one lane tunnels, be sure you honk your horn, over pigtail bridges and around horseshoe curves. The pigtail bridges are really interesting as they go over their own road so as we went over the bridge we could look down on the cars that were following us up the mountain.

The tunnels are lined up so that they frame Mount Rushmore and it’s tempting to stop for a photo op. I’m sure some people do but that day the traffic was very steady and it didn’t seem safe to stop. Needless to say, I have no pictures of this drive. I had both hands on the wheel and Sandy was white-knuckled in the passenger seat. She doesn’t like heights and this road was playing right into her worst phobias. I think anyone prone to car sickness should avoid this route too but I had a great timeJ We saw some RV’s trying it on for size and I suppose if your really careful and have good brakes that you’ll be fine but I wouldn’t do it. I’d leave the RV at home and rent a car for the day to make the drive.

Mount Rushmore  from Norbeck Observatory Point

At the top of the mountain is The Norbeck Observation Point. It has a well paved parking lot and rest rooms. There’s a trail down to an observation deck with awesome views. It was really cold up there on the mountain so we didn’t linger for too long. Besides, we had a date with 4 handsome men on a mountain.

I am adding 1 more picture to this post even though it’s more of an “aside”. As we headed to Iron Mountain Road we spotted a field with both antelope and deer. It was the first time I had noticed both together like that and all I could think of was the song Home Home on the Range and the line..”where the deer and the antelope play”. So I just wanted to share.

Where the deer and the Antelope play

For more information and and couple of photos of Iron Mountain Road, I have included a link.  http://www.allblackhills.com/scenic_drives/iron_mountain_road.php

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Spanish Mares and Don Juan

We were headed off to another area of the Sanctuary where a band of Spanish mares and their stallion, Don Juan hang out. Krista told us that Don Juan was small but mighty, keeping a loyal band of followers in line.

She said the Spanish Horses all have bloodlines that go back to the horses brought to the New World by the Conquistadores which is how they got the name “Spanish”. They can be recognized because they all have distinctive markings on their legs similar to the stripes you see on Zebras. Some also have lines on their rumps similar to buckskin markings and many are dusky colored although that is not a color requirement.

Run Wild, Run Free

On the way we had the thrill of seeing a small band of horses doing what you dream of wild horses doing, running. Krista pulled over so I could get out and try for a picture. The horses were way out of range of my zoom but even so it is one of my favorite pictures right up there with the Prairie Dog with the flower. I am sharing the original which gives you some idea of the scale of the land and the cropped version that features the horses. I like both! What’s you favorite?

Race the wind

We stopped at one point so we could admire a beautiful dun colored mare that seemed to have all the markings Krista had been telling us about plus a little bird. Sometimes everything just comes together!

Mare & Bird Friend

 If you look closely you can see the stripes on this mares rear legs.

Spanish Mare

We found Don Juan and his band of mares at one of the artificial watering stations that are set up around the sanctuary. Krista said they have tank trucks that make the rounds and fill the water tanks daily. The color segregation continued in this band too.

Don Juan's Band At the water trough

 

Best Friends

 

Don Juan

As you can see, Don Juan has the spanish markings too.

That wrapped up our tour and we headed back to the welcome center. In the process we drove by the spot we had seen the loose horse when we came in. It was gone so the wrangler must have rounded her up. Nearby a tiny Western Bluebird fluttered to a stop and I was lucky enough to get a picture. We heard the meadowlarks here too. It’s such a beautiful area.

Western Bluebird

Back at the parking lot I spotted a chicken coop but the chickens were different than any I’d ever seen. Loads of fluffy little chicks were running around.

Little balls of Fluff

There was also a coop of albino peacocks. Krista had pointed those out when we started out. I wasn’t interested then. I just wanted to see the horses so I said I’d get a picture later…but I forgot. So you’ll just have to take my word for it. Krista said they were mean anyway J

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Leaving the Sanctuary we turned our sight toward Mount Rushmore, the main reason for the trip. We would be driving Iron Mountain road to get there. That was fun!

 Interested? The Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary can use our support. Check them out at www.wildmustangs.com

 

 

Native Americans, Petroglyphs and Birds

As we headed out to the next stop on Krista’s tour she told us we would be going by a sacred site that the Lakota were preparing for a Ghost Dance. She told us that most white people are not allowed to observe a Ghost Dance because parts of the ritual are very misunderstood. To be invited you have to be able to prove that you have a Native American bloodline. She said that when the sanctuary was created the Lakota was given the use of the land for their rituals and celebrations.

Lakota Prayer Pole

We could drive by and we could take pictures as we go by but we can’t stop. I got a picture of the prayer pole.

Soon we were pulling up in front of a huge cliff. Krista took us up to the cliff and pointed out the petroglyphs. She said one of the “glyphs” had paint on it so it would show up better so I took a picture of the blue paint spot hoping I would be able to see them once the picture was blown up.

Painted Petroglyph

Wall carving

There were “modern” petroglyphs too, better known as graffiti but as Krista pointed out some day they will be ancient too and if humans are still around, someone will be standing there marveling at these carvings from the mid 1900’s.

On this same cliff were swallow nests and you could see the little birds in them. I took lots of pictures of these little birds. I’ve never been this close to these mud nests before.

Swallow nests on cliff face

As we pulled onto the gravel road to head to the next stop we saw a little bird run in front of the car. Krista laughed and slowed down. She said it was a Killdeer and that it would race the car. I leaned out the window to take pictures of this little bird as it ran along side us. When it couldn’t keep up anymore it flew a few feet ahead of us and then started running along all over again.

Killdeer

Killdeer ready to race

We were headed over to see the Spanish Mares and their stallion Don Juan when we drove into a very active prairie dog town.

Prairie Dogs

 I told Krista I’d seen lots of Prairie Dogs but had yet to get a “Really Good” picture. She said we had time to stop so pulled over to see if we could get lucky here. As if to prove that this was the best opportunity a little “dog” popped up on my side of the car with a flower in it’s mouth. Krista was yelling…”Look at that!…Did you get ? Did you get the shot?” and then he was gone back into his burrow. You be the judge…Did I get the shot?

Prairie Dog with Flower

 

Next time, Spanish mares and Don Juan.

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Wild Horses!

Finally there they were! The main event! As we came out of a stand of trees and a field opened up in front of us we couldn’t miss them. They were everywhere.

Krista slowly drove the SUV right into the midst of them. I was surprised that they didn’t run or stampede or something. Krista said the recent rains had finally broken the drought and the hoses were gorging themselves like they were at an all you can eat buffet. With this banquet in front of them, they paid no attention to us as long as we moved slowly and quietly.

Krista pointed out that the horses seem to segregate themselves. The herd had many different colors and patterns from roan to pinto to white or black but within the herd each color pattern seemed to stay close to others of the same pattern.. I had never heard that before but as I looked I could see that Krista was right.

Krista let us get out of the car but told us not to approach the horses so we stayed close to the SUV. We didn’t want to disturb these beautiful animals. We just wanted to enjoy the sight.

Eventually Krista said we should move on. There was another herd she wanted us to see so it was back in the car. Over another hill and we slowly pulled into another herd. Here is where I got some of the best shots. These horses were busy eating too but they also showed more interest in us.

Some of these horses had birds riding on their backs. The birds eat the bugs and flies from the horses’ coats.. The color/pattern segregation continued in this band too.

Back in the SUV we followed tire tracks past more horses to a lookout over the Cheyenne River Valley. Krista explained that the Cheyenne bends back and forth 7 times so is considered sacred by the native people. She said some of the herds never cross the river. They stay in the rugged “wild side “ of the sanctuary and only come down to drink from the river. Today we didn’t see any. The river valley was quiet.

At this point Krista said she was going to take us to see the petroglyphs so it was back in the SUV.

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More on our Sanctuary visit in my next post.J

Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary

I woke up really excited today. Wild horses have been running through my dreams all night. All of the stories and movies I’d ever seen or heard had my anticipation at a fever pitch.

It didn’t take us long to finish our Jimmy Dean breakfast, I confess I was nearing the end of my tolerance to JD sandwiches but they were fast and free, and then we were on our way.

We no sooner made the turn off RT 44 onto RT 79 South than we spotted 2 beautiful pronghorn. They were just standing there as though watching the traffic go by. Heads up, they made a beautiful picture in the early morning light. Sorry, it’s only in my mind, I was driving again and couldn’t stop, although I was really tempted to try.

Wild Turkey

We made good time, even stopping to get a picture of a turkey in full display and of a deer peaking out of a ravine.

Deer

The entrance is marked by a really attractive sculpture of running horses. We stopped for that picture for sure.

Wild Horse Sanctuary entrance

 Then we drove down a well graded dirt road. We passed horses that were behind a fence and then spotted one on the outside of the fence. As we continued on we went up a small rise and then back down a rutted portion of the road. Not too much farther on we saw some buildings and there were cars parked in the dirt parking lot. I think we have arrived..

Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctruary

We went into the building which we learned was one of the original homestead building. Now that the property was a sanctuary, the building was converted to the welcome center.

Visitor Center

It was about 9:30 am and our tour was for 10:00am so we had half an hour to look around and get checked in. I got my “Kitty Fix” when we met the Sanctuary Cat. When I travel I do miss my pets but I always seem to connect with at least one cat on each trip…I call that connection my “Kitty Fix”.

The Sanctuary Cat

Right on time our guide came out to meet up. This time our guide was a personable young lady named Krista who also happened to be one of the sanctuary photographers. That was great because she said she’d help me find some good shots. The tour was billed as “semi-private” but Sandy and I were the only ones on it so as far as I’m concerned, it was private. That gives us much more flexibility.

We told Krista about the horse we’d seen on the outside of the fence and she went back inside to tell one of the wranglers. Soon after we saw someone heading back up the road. Krista said he would round up the horse and get her back where she belonged.

Krista showed us the yearling paddock and explained that in order to manage the herd size, some of foals that are born on the sanctuary are rounded up and sold to offset the operating costs. She said that for the most part the herd size is managed by separating the stallions from the mares to prevent too many foals. South Dakota has been in the grips of a drought the last few years and if the horses had been allowed to breed, many animals would have starved even with human intervention. The horses are truly wild and are left to fend for themselves against the elements and predators. It sounds cruel at first but it’s really just nature’s way.

Yearling Sculpture

Krista soon had us in a large 4 wheel drive SUV and we were off. As we climbed a dirt road we asked about a statue of a black and white horse on the side of the road. Krista stopped the car and while I took pictures told us this was their “Little Horse on the Prairie”. We got a chuckle out of that and the joke let us know that our guide had a sense of humor.

Little Horse on the Prairie

The first stop on the tour was an overlook that Krista told us was used to film the ranch for several western films including Crazy Horse. Before we got out Krista checked the area for rattlesnakes.

Ranch Overlook

Several more stops followed where Krista pointed out the flora and fauna in the area, explained about sage plants and flowers and in general set the stage for the main event.

At one stop we caught up with another tour. One of the women was upset because her camera had stopped working. Both Krista and I looked at it but we couldn’t figure out what was wrong with it. I had 2 point and shoots with me as back up for exactly this reason. My DSLR hasn’t ever given me a problem but I have heard many horror stories of camera’s dying at the worse possible time so I always throw in a P&S or two just in case.

I offered to let the woman borrow one. I told her to just take the memory card and leave the camera with the front desk and I’d pick it up when our tour ended. Their guide was witness so I wasn’t too worried about the camera being stolen.

 

As we continued with our “nature “ tour, I admit I was getting restless for the wild horses.

It was worth the wait so I think I’ll let you wait another day too. I’ll tell you about the horses in another post. J