The Great White North

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North to Denali

The farther north we went the easier it was to see that spring hadn’t really sprung yet. The scenery was spectacular but it was snow and ice. As the Denali Express rumbled over a trestle bridge we could look down into the steep chasm below. This was pretty rugged country.Trestle bridge shadow

raindeerA pair of caribou raced across a frozen river as we passed by. At one stop some mushers came on to talk to us about dog sledding. About that time someone spotted a coupled of grizzly bears fresh out of hibernation. They were just tiny dots in the distance. After the first excitement of the train ride wore off it began to get a bit long. Lots of people used the time to nap. The 9 1/2 hour trip seemed endless. Probably because it stretched to 11 hours before we pulled into the station in Denali.

 

Off the train and onto a bus

We all tumbled off the train and were immediately loaded onto a bus for the short trip to the Denali Princess Wilderness lodge.  The accommodations weren’t bad. And even if the weather was cold we had the warm Alaskan welcome to shake off the chill.

We didn’t have long to linger in the room because dinner was being served along with a stage show. The waitstaff were also the performers and they were amazing. After the show it was time to head to bed. The sun was just setting this far north but we had an early morning tour. We were going into the National Park. Hopefully we’d finally see some animals. Our park adventure was a half day tour. Turns out the best tour would have been the all day trip but once again we relied on our travel agent when selecting the excursion. 

Into Denali National Park

Our Tour Bus Awaits

In the morning after a huge breakfast at one of the resort restaurants (which were not included in the package) we climbed aboard another bus for our trip into Denali National Park. We began to see a little more animal life. There were a couple of moose and some caribou but no bears. We really wanted to see bears. When the all day tour returned they said they has bears surround their bus. Clearly we should have taken the longer trip. 

 

The Land Part of our CruiseTour

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Exploring the Land

Land and sea cruise tours are popular for Alaska. It’s such a big state. Loads of coastline for the “sea” but all that amazing interior. Some of it is really the last frontier. Look at all the TV shows. There’s Alaskan Bush People, Edge of Alaska, Life Below Zero, Alaska State Troopers, Wild West Alaska and the list goes on. Proof that Alaska is a fascinating place that has captured our imaginations. There was even a show about the Alaska Railroad. That’s how we planned to travel to Denali National Park, by train.

All Aboard the Princess Alaska Railroad

When you watch the Shows about Alaska, even the documentaries, the rail passengers are all seated in spacious rail cars, smiling and having a great time. On our itinerary we were arriving in Whittier in the morning but not boarding the train until the afternoon. There’d be time to explore this little town where everyone lives in one big building! Much of the ride would be at night since it was a 9 1/2 hour trip. That wasn’t what happened. We arrived in Whittier in the morning but we were sent immediately to the train. The seating was bench seats that faced each other with a table in between. Everything was bolted down so you couldn’t push back or move the table to get comfortable. With our carry-on luggage and bulky coats the seating was cramped. But it only got worse. Turns out that the seating wasn’t for 2 people. It was for 4!

The long and crowded ride

Our 9 1/2 hour trip actually turned into 11 hours. I did get a few photos and crawled over our seatmates a few times for bathroom breaks, a visit to the dining car and just to stretch my legs. The scenery was magnificent but it was hard to enjoy it when there was no room to turn around for a look. We had dome windows but it didn’t take too long to dampen any enthusiasm for looking out. This was very disappointing. Nothing like the experience we were told to expect. I found out after the fact that there is a commercial passenger train that goes to Denali but we weren’t on it. This train is owned and operated by Princess Cruise Lines. They packed us in like sardines so they could make a bigger profit. I can’t recommend this part of the journey.

Rating the Alaska Cruise

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How Should I Rate the Cruise?

I’m going to rate the cruise portion of this vacation separate from the land part. I’ll fill you in on the Denali portion separately. I also checked the archives for the model train pictures. I’m not sure if you can see all of the comments but my sister asked if I have pictures of the little train at the Garden Party.

Choo Choo

Miniature train

When we went to the Garden Party the location was not just a little restaurant. It was a greenhouse, garden and glass blowing business. The gift shop was filled with delicate glass flowers and other hand made gifts. Throughout the grounds were lovely glass ornaments and other decorations. One of the most fun was the model train. It actually ran around the gardens. It wasn’t just sitting on display.

Train station in miniature

The Luncheon

glass drageonsI keep referring to the Garden Party. The lunch was actually at Jewell Gardens & Garden City Glassworks. I also looked up our meal. It was tea and salad. The main course was quiche. I’m not a fan of quiche so that was probably why the lunch was “forgettable” to me. I didn’t eat the dessert either  and can’t remember what it was. But I am getting off track. It’s time to rate the cruise.

glass fish

The Rating – 4 Stars

This was a pretty good cruise. Alaska is phenomenal. But I couldn’t give it 5 stars for a few reason.

  1. I got Sea Sick
  2. We went at the wrong time of year-weather
  3. Some of the meals (on the ship) were not up to cruise ship standards
  4. We didn’t see a lot of animals as our travel agent promised

All in all this wasn’t a bad cruise, just not as good as it could be. I was surprised by several of the meals in the dining room. The beef medallions one night were very tough and the American Night, a Thanksgiving dinner with all of the trimmings, was horrible. The lobster night was a huge success and my favorite meal of the cruise. Yes I think a 4 is a fair rating for the cruise portion of the trip.

Finally Some Sun

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College Fjord GlaciersThe Land of the Midnight Sun

As we entered Collage Fjord the sun finally came out. The gray, dreary weather that had been following us since we boarded the ship finally cleared. Without the heavy, gray cloud cover we began to see why this land is known as the land of the midnight sun. Even though we were on an early spring cruise sunset at this latitude was still around 10:30 pm.

Midnight sun

What is College Fjord?

College Fjord

Believe it or not, College Fjord was even more spectacular than Glacier Bay. Maybe it was because we had sunlight and blue sky but I think it had more to do with the proximity of the glaciers. There are a lot of them here and the Fjord is more narrow than Glacier Bay. All of the glaciers here are named after a college. This is just a partial list of the glaciers that line the Fjord.

The Wildlife of College Fjord

marine mammalThere was a Naturalist on board for the cruise through College Fjord. We’d just entered the mouth of the Fjord when they announced that we could see mountain goats on the mountain sides. Although I looked like crazy I couldn’t see anything that I could say for sure were animals of any kind. We kept watch for marine mammals like whales and porpoises but only one unidentified animal showed it’s head. 

Whittier just ahead

Our Cruise ship in Whittier

After College Fjord we cruised into Whittier arriving in the morning. As soon as we finished breakfast we were off loaded. Just look at all that snow! Some of our luggage was taken to the Captain Cook hotel in Anchorage to await our return. A smaller bag of necessities for our 3 days in Denali went with us to the train. The cruise portion of our trip was over. 

 

Glacier Bay to Prince William Sound

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Magarie GlacierGrand Pacific Glacier

At the head of Glacier Bay next to the spectacular Margerie Glacier is a dirty black line of ice. This is the remains of the Grand Pacific Glacier. This granddaddy of them all is now receding at the rate of 30-60 ft per year. At one time it was this glacier that filled the area that is today Glacier Bay. As The Grand Pacific receded it left behind the U shaped trench to fill with water creating the magnificent Glacier Bay we see today.

Grand Pacific Glacier

Prince William Sound

Stock Photo

Grand Pacific Glacier marks the end of Glacier Bay. It was time to turn around and head out to more open sea. Prince William Sound is part of the Gulf of Alaska. It is located to the east side of the Kenai Peninsula. Out here the ocean is more open. It’s not as protected as the bays and straits we’ve been traversing so far. We’ve been told to stay alert and watch for abundant wildlife. Resident marine mammals include humpback, sei, fin, minke, and killer whales as well as Steller sea lions, harbor seals, and sea otters, all of which reach some of their greatest numbers in Prince William Sound. Even land animals can be seen on the narrow beaches. Some of the most common are black bears, grizzlies, moose and mountain goats. But I wouldn’t see any of them.

 

Along with open water come the waves

By now I considered myself a seasoned cruiser. I’d never been on a ship this large that rocked. I’d even told my sister that she wouldn’t need Dramamine. But Prince William Sound did me in. Seas were running 4-6 ft. Not huge but large enough for a pronounced rocking motion. It was actually pretty gentle, up and down from peak to trough and up again. If it had been a wild ride I’d probably have been ok. My adrenaline would have kicked in. Instead this gentle up and down motion sent me heading for my bunk. I spent the afternoon napping and  fighting the nausea of sea sickness So I missed the pod of orcas that passed the ship in the middle of the sound.

Orca

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