Rangeley and Saddleback

Rangeley and Saddleback

Main St Rangeley

The Little town of Rangeley may not be familiar to you but if you ski you most certainly have heard of Saddleback Mountain. It was while I was chatting with the waitress at the Red Onion that the importance of Saddleback became clear.

Saddleback Ski Resort

In the 1950’s ski fever hit the Rangeley area. Saddleback Mountain was developed into a world class ski resort. The influx of winter ski enthusiasts gave life to the little town if Rangeley. Saddleback actually opened for the 1960 ski season. The lower T-Bar opened on December 31, 1960, serving the Wheeler Slope. The upper T-Bar, serving Grey Ghost and Hudson Highway, opened in late January.

No gas sign from 1970s

No Snow, No Gas, Oh No!

Saddleback Resort continued expanding and upgrading, adding chairlifts and snow making machines. Then in 1973-74 poor weather combined with gas shortages resulted in a disastrous season for New England’s ski resorts. While 1974-75 was a better season, it was not enough to rescue Big Rangeley Corporation. In 1975, Casco Bank and Trust Co. foreclosed on the ski area and sold it to a company called Saddleback Kingdom.

The Appalachian TrailAppalachia Trail sign

In 1978, Massachusetts businessman Donald Breen purchased Saddleback and immediately began investing in it. Also that year, President Jimmy Carter signed H.R. 8803, which started a land acquisition plan for the Appalachian Trail. The Appalachian Trail Corridor runs through Saddleback and the proposed expansion area for the resort. Confronted with endless red tape and potential eminent domain losses, Breen held off on his investment as negotiations dragged on for over a decade.

Closure

In 2012 the Breen family announced the resort was for sale. In 2015 they announced that there would be new owners to open the resort in 2016.  The promised re-opening never came.

A New Hope

While I was in Rangeley the news hit the airwaves.  An Australian Company was buying  Saddleback. They would invest millions and open back up doing it right. The reopening date is contingent upon how quickly Majella Group can install a modern quad chairlift to replace an aging double chairlift, a light at the end of the economic tunnel.

 

Downtown Rangeley and the Red Onion

Downtown Rangeley and the Red Onion

Main St Rangeley Downtown Rangeley is a little, tiny downtown. When I was growing up we used to say our town was so small that if you blinked you’d miss it. That’s Rangeley.   Rangeley is the center of the Rangeley Lakes Region, a resort area. Surrounded by lakes, woods and streams, the emphasis here is on outdoor activities all year round. Gives new meaning to neither rain nor snow, well you know the rest.

Small but Varied

The Red OnionIn spite of it’s small size, Rangeley has  a variety of shops. There’s an outdoor clothing store, the mandatory antique shop, a Real Estate office, a snack bar and ice cream stand and several restaurants. I parked in front of a photo gallery but it was closed. No worries, I was more interested in food at that point than pictures. The local eating establishments have a varied schedule according to the hand out I received  at the resort, but the Red Onion was definitely open.

Outdoor Seating at the Red Onion

 

The Red OnionRed Onion Swashirt

The Red Onion seems to be a landmark in the area.

It’s advertised as a pizza restaurant but I didn’t see anyone eating pizza when I was there. They have really cute t shirts and sweat shirts so of course I had to get one. My one and only souvenir from my trip.

My lunch was a buffalo chicken salad. It was made with a lots of different greens, onions and tomatoes and really spicy buffalo chicken. It was quite yummy and really hit the spot.

The interior of the restaurant is simple but nice with booths and tables and a rustic feel. They also have outdoor seating but it was a little cool so I stayed inside. There’s an upstairs too but the waitress said they didn’t use that since it was hard to regulate the temperature up there with the sun coming in through the windows.

They had a large dessert menu and even though I shouldn’t I had to try the strawberry rhubarb pie. It was worth the sugar and calories. I have to give the Red Onion a 5 star rating.Tables in the Red Onion

booths in the Red Onion

 

 

Time to make the Decision not the Donuts

Decision Timewalking across the wire bridge in New Portland Maine

While I considered my options I spotted a young man walking his dog. I explained my dilemma and he recommended continuing on the back roads. Of course he, like my directions, left out a few things, like a T intersection. Which way now? Another decision! I chose right bumping along the dirt road for another mile or two before it changed back to hard top.

Back on Route 27.

Carrabasett RiverEventually I worked my way back to the first Wire Bridge sign. I’d gone full circle. At least I knew where I was now. I got back on RT 27 and started looking for Rt 234. Several miles along I spotted it but now do I go east or West? My directions didn’t say. I chose to go straight (west). It felt like I was driving forever as is typical when you have no idea where you’re going.

Strong

Eventually I drove into a town called Strong. Unfortunately  at that point I lost RT 234. This was really turning into quite the scenic drive. Like Gilligan’s 3 hour cruise, my 2 hour scenic drive was the never-ending drive heading into it’s 3rd hour. I was now on Rt 142 or was it Rt 145? I kept seeing signs for both but it was far too late to turn around. Best to keep on truckin’.

Phillips

Holy moly another T intersection but at least this one has road signs. 12 miles to the left to Phillips or 3 miles to the right to Errol. I don’t know Errol but I do know that I can find RT 4 in Phillips so Phillips it is. Just then the skies opened up and the rain started in torrents. It was just sunny! What happened!?

Route 4 and back to Rangeley.Field of Lupine

The rain stopped as quickly as it started just as I got on RT 4. Now it was deja vu. This was how I drove into  Rangeley the first day. I passed Small Falls. I would have stopped but I was afraid the rain might start again. I’ll save it for another day. Then I passed the dirt bank from the “You have reached your destination” fiasco. Next up was the trail head for the Appalachian Trail. I was on a roll now. I knew exactly where I was. I drove past the Suds and Sizzle, the IGA and finally my resort. I’d earned a lunch out for a change. I’m headed for the Red Onion.

Scenic Drive #2 continues

Scenic Drive #2 continues

After the ducklings and a moose I almost decided to call it a day. What more could I want and it was only 9 AM! But no, lets finish what I stated so back on the road to Stratton I went. The scenic drive continues. Route 16 connected with Rt 27 and I entered Carrabassett Valley. I passed Sugarloaf Mountain, a well known Ski Area, finally reaching the picnic/rest area in Kingfield.

Take a break, Stay awake, have a picnic

gray squirrelI have to say that rest areas in Maine, Vermont and New Hampshire are pretty top notch. This was a lovely picnic area that even had rest rooms. It’s  located right on the river and it was very clean. Some of the picnic tables had roofs over them to keep you dry if it should rain.  There were charcoal fire places for grilling.  This is where I added another varmint to my animal list, a grey squirrel. He didn’t stick around when I parked but I spotted him anyway.

Scenic Picnic area at the Kingfeild rest area

On the road again

Back on the road again I was looking for a sign  to a scenic overlook called Ira Mountain. According to my directions the road would be narrow but the view worth it. I never saw the sign for the overlook but I saw a sign that read, “Iron Bridge”. I bet it was near there.

The Wire Bridge  The Wire Bridge in New Portland Maine on my Scenic Drive

Having concluded that I’d missed that turn off, I was determined not to miss any more. The next item on the scenic drive list was Wire Bridge. I wasn’t sure what that was but I was not going to miss it. Entering New Portland I kept a close eye out for signs and there they were. I followed each turn exactly and then the bridge was in front of me. What a fascinating bridge! While I took pictures a car crossed it. I watched as the wire supports bounced and the bed of the bridge swayed. I had to walk across it. Then, of course, I had to drive across it. Once across the bridge I could park and walk down to the river. That gave me another perspective.

The Scenic Wire Bridge in New Portland

Now Where?

One problem with my scenic road directions is that they got me to the Wire Bridge but then they got kind of vague. Do I turn around and go back? Do I continue on this road? It turned into a dirt road on the far side of the bridge. The directions said to take Rt 234 back to Rt 4. But I haven’t seen any signs for RT 234 at all, what to do? What to do? This is Maine, not Massachusetts. I could drive for hours if I make the wrong choice!

Guess What Day it is

Guess What Day it is

hump day camel

Guess what day it is? Yup, it’s hump day, Wednesday, the middle of the week. My vacation is half over! I didn’t want to get out of bed. I didn’t want to think about the number of miles I’d logged looking for a stupid moose. It was time to get up and try again but oh my, I didn’t want to. It’s my vacation, roll over and go back to sleep.

A Scenic Drive is just what I need

I managed to laze around until 7:30 am when I gave in and packed up for another drive. This time I was going on a Scenic Drive. I was not looking for moose or any other kind of wildlife. This was going to be a relaxing 2 hour drive with maybe a stop to see a waterfall. The sun was shining and it was kind of cool so I tossed my hoodie in the car just in case.

Scenic Drive number 2Mama Duck and baby ducklings

On my handout from the resort I had 4 scenic drives. I did half of scenic drive #1 but ran into road construction before I could complete the 2nd half. Today I’d give #2 a try. The first step was to find Route 16 East. I had a good idea where Rt 16 was but I wasn’t sure if it was east or west. Remember , I am not looking for wildlife. With no expectation  I was pleasantly surprised that just as I saw the 16 east sign I also saw a duck. I pulled over and walked back with the camera. As I got closer the grass and weeds around the duck began to move and 4 baby ducklings emerged running to Mom. I stopped in my tracks. They were so cute but I didn’t want to scare them away so I took my pictures from where I stood and then backed away.

Route 16 East to Stratton

Maine Moose by the side of the roadBack on the road I headed down Route 16. I was the only car on the road this early so I poked along mentally ticking off what animals I’d seen most of so far…black flies, black flies, black flies. Ok so maybe a chipmunk or two, lots of crows (ravens?), 1 bat, that cute little fox kit and now the ducks. Just as I ticked them off I saw a moose. Yes, really! She was standing in a small field next to the road. I pulled over as carefully as I could. Mindful of the warning not to leave car doors open, I tried to slide out slowly so I could get the camera out of the car.

The Moose and IA Moose heading for the trees

The moose watched me carefully, ears twitching forward and back but she didn’t run away. I snapped a couple of pictures and tried to move a little closer. She took a couple of steps away then stopped. I stepped another couple of steps forward. She move a little too. We had quite the little dance going here. I’d move , she’d move. But like Cinderella at Midnight, the approach of an 18 wheeler sent Ms Moose heading for the trees. For such a big gangly creature she sure could move. I guess the universe rewarded me for my persistence even when I didn’t want to go driving around.