Where are the Sharks? Where is the Valley?

Back on the tram we headed back to the info Center. As we traveled through the sawgrass prairie our guide turned to the landscape. The birds and alligators were still there but it was time to learn about the land. We stopped at a mound covered with trees where she explained that this was “Tree Island”. During the wet season it is surrounded by water but the canopy of the trees on the island keep the interior dry and the shade makes it cool. Everything from animals like Florida Panthers, deer,  alligators and even humans use these tree islands for shelter. Large tree islands doubled as homes for the native Florida Indians. There is room on the interior for small campfires and dry for sleeping.

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Moving on we passed the skeleton of a dead gator and an anhinga looking for a mate. You can tell when an anhinga is ready to mate by the colored circle around its eye. When they are searching for a mate the color of the circle becomes a brilliant color.

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Then she asked the million dollar question…why is this area called Shark Valley? As we looked around it didn’t look like a valley. The land looked pretty flat and there certainly wasn’t enough water for sharks. But that’s where we were about to be corrected.

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According to the guide Shark Valley is really a valley. To get to the coast you really have to go uphill. The rise may be slight and not that noticeable but it is there. Therefore this area does meet the definition if a valley: 1.low-lying area: a long low area of land, often with a river or stream running through it, that is surrounded by higher ground

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Ok so it’s a valley but where does the shark part come into it? The Everglades is not a swamp. The water is not stagnant. It is a slow-moving river filled with vegetation, hence the name “river of grass”, but it’s a wide shallow river still the same. And rivers go somewhere. The Everglades eventually connects to the sea.  At the junction where the fresh water Everglades meets the salt water of the sea an area of brackish  water exists. Here salt water crocodiles mingle with fresh water American alligators. It is the only place in the world where these 2 species exist side by side. And it is here that bull sharks enter the valley.

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Bull sharks are unique in the shark/fish world in that they can survive in both fresh and salt water. So in the brackish water where the ocean and fresh water meet, bull sharks come to hunt. The lower end of this valley connects to the ocean and creates that unique environment. Early settlers saw the sharks and the name Shark Valley stuck. 

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I attempted an internet search to confirm this explanation but so far my preliminary results have come up empty so I pass this along as a story told by our guide. It rings true to me. Florida is higher at the coast than the interior and bull sharks do survive in both fresh and salt water. That has been confirmed in many places of the world. So Welcome to Shark Valley. Definitely a place to visit when you get a chance.

On a Tram again….

There are 3 ways to visit Shark Valley-walking, bicycling or taking a ride on a tram.

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I’m a firm believer in getting the lay of the land before I head off on foot and I don’t have bicycle so the choice for me was easy. Tram Ride.

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The tram ride is a 2 hour tour narrated by a naturalist or park ranger.  It covers a 15 mile loop trail that is closed to private vehicles. At the half way mark is an observation tower. On a clear day you can see for miles.

At 11:00 am I took a seat on the bench near the Tram’s ticket booth. It was a beautiful, sunny day. For the next 2 hours I’d receive an education about the Shark Valley eco- system and it’s wildlife.

As other riders  joined me on the benches one of the attendants came by to chat. It was his role to give us the safety briefing. He told us to stay 15 feet away from all wildlife but especially the alligators and they can be unpredictable. He then went on to tell us about another tourist a few weeks back  who kept trying to poke the alligators. Seems he’d been watching too many reality shows like Gator Boys and wanted to see if he could out maneuver the gators the way they do on that show. After being warned repeatedly he was removed from the park and fined.

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About then our guide arrived and we loaded onto the tram. Right away we saw wildlife.  A red-shouldered hawk perched in the meadow.

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A mama gator and her babies sunned by the side of the pavement.

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A whole panne was filled with Wood Storks.

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Seeing so many of these our naturalist explained that these birds had been endangered because of habitat loss. They are very fussy eaters and if the water in the panne is the wrong depth or temperature or any of a number of other things, they will not feed there so it was exciting to see so many in one place.

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Herons were everywhere, all kinds as I had noticed by the info center.

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The tram would stop whenever our guide spotted something interesting so she could talk about it and give us plenty of time for photographs.

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We met lots of bicyclists. They gave us the right of way and waved as we passed. That looks like a great way to see the sights up even closer than the tram. I believe there is a bike rental kiosk located near the parking lot.

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About noon we reached the observation tower. We had about 1/2 hour here so we could climb the tower and take a look around. So far our guide had been pointing out the birds and gators and talking about the diversity of the wildlife in the Everglades. Now she let us head out on our own.

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We all clambered off the tram and headed up the paved path to the observation tower.

Birds, Turtles and Alligators…Oh My

The water was alive. There was no other way to describe it. The surface was in constant motion. Fish jumped, others bubbled and gulped at the surface and gars cruised just under the tea colored surface.

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Birds filled the trees. All kinds of birds. There were anhinga, egrets, herons, Great Blue, Great White, Tri Color, Night Herons.

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The little birds with the red face were everywhere.

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I could see turtles piled on the banks or swimming.

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But the alligators were the star attractions. The sidewalk ran along side the water and the gators were hauled out sunning themselves…everywhere! They didn’t seem to pay any attention to the people walking by.

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Gators, being cold-blooded, need the heat and sun to build up their energy supplies. They also can’t digest their meals without the sun. If they can’t get warm their last meal can end up rotting inside them and kill them instead of releasing life supporting nutrients.

There was so much to see and I hadn’t even left the parking area!

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The information center is located on a wooden observation deck that juts out over the water. From this vantage point I could see so much going on. I felt like I didn’t need to go anywhere else.

While I stood watching a small gator came swimming down the water channel.

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Almost immediately a large gator pushed himself into the water and began making a bee line for the smaller one. My first thought was  male/ female but my second was that the big gator might have been being territorial. I waited to see what would happen.

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The small gator picked up speed but the large guy stayed right on its tail until it seemed to pass an invisible boundary. At that point the big gator turned around and came back to his spot on the bank and the little gator continued on its way. My conclusion… territorial behavior and since the small one kept going it eventually left Big Guy’s turf.

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I stayed on the deck watching the action until almost 11:00. I had a ticket for the 11:00 Tram ride. After that I planned to explore some of the trails.

It’s the Journey…

Everglades National Park. It’s been an unreachable goal on so many of my Florida trips. Normally my visits take me to the Orlando area even when I am not visiting the Theme Parks and Orlando isn’t anywhere near Everglades National Park. Now that I’m in Fort Lauderdale finally getting to the park is a top priority.

I realize that all of my little adventures so far have taken me into the Everglades…but not the National Park. My first decision is which part of the park to visit. There are 3 entrances and they are nowhere near each other. Since wildlife is a priority I chose the Shark Valley entrance. My GPS put me about 45  minutes away so it wasn’t a bad drive. It was highway for the most part.

I was making good time until I got off the highway and made my last turn toward the park. At least there were plenty of signs so you don’t get lost. What I didn’t know was that the last part if the trip was all under construction so it was one lane…literaly. You stopped for the flagmen who let one lane go , then the other.

The Shark Valley entrance opens at 8:30 am and closes at 6pm. As I got closer I saw snake hunters with their snake hooks searching the perimeter of the park for invasive snakes. The state of Florida is sponsoring a snake hunt for pythons. Latest count is at 31. The hunt ended Feb 8. I’m not sure what the final counts came to. I will have to look it up and let you know in another post.

It was a little after 9am when I saw the entrance to the park come into sight. The entrance fee is $10.00 and is good for 7 days. It’s also good at any of the entrances. Too bad this is my last day in Florida for this trip. I’m flying out of Fort Lauderdale Airport in the morning.

The limited parking was almost filled even at this early hour but the rangers were great helping me squeeze my little rental into a spot that seemed way too small  by directing me in. I collected my gear and walked across the pavement to the sidewalk and almost stepped on my first “gator”…a big one! The ranger laughed and said ” Welcome to the Everglades. Watch where you step.”

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What an introduction! I walked the rest of the way to the information center on the road..not the sidewalk!

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Morning on The Loop Road

We were up bright and early the next morning. The sun seems to rise about 5am and light was filtering in through the small hall window. I believe that’s the “natural” way to wake up…to sunlight but it was still early!

Showered and refreshed we took the car when we went to breakfast. Back to the Great Maine Breakfast but we’d learned our lessons yesterday with the “Lumberjack”. We toned down our orders today. I had the cinnamon – raisin french toast. Soooo Good. I have to say, all the food has been fantastic and filling. I can’t fault the quality or the quantity. Once again I was only able to eat about 1/2 the order but I’d put a cooler in the car so I took the left over as a “doggy bag”.

We picked up some bottled water and headed out to spend the day exploring Acadia National Park. Acadia has a Loop Road that you can drive through the park. Following it will take you to many of the high points if you’re not a hiker.

We pulled off  wherever there was a scenic overlook. The views of Frenchman’s Bay were beautiful. The heat and humidity were back so there was a haze that interfered with pictures even with filters to offset the effect. Still it was breathtaking.

The sand beach was so packed we weren’t able to get a parking spot.

Since there were so many other sights we skipped it for now and headed on to the next big location on our list, Jordan Pond.

We had heard that Jordan Pond was a must see/do especially their pop-over lunch. Walking to the lodge we spotted a “Mountain Garden”.

The Garden was made up of trails, water features and wild flowers native to the area. It was all done so naturally among the trees that it seemed as if you had just come upon it by accident. Each type of habitat was clearly marked.

It was here that I saw the jack-in-the- pulpit.

I was thrilled to spot it because it’s been years and years since I’d seen one.

Another plant I hadn’t seen in a long time was the pitcher plant but there they were. Talk about being taken back in time!

There were benches along the paths and little bridges over the brooks. It was much cooler under the trees too so the garden was a really refreshing break from the heat. Eventually we wandered to the lodge and checked the menu for the Pop-over picnic lunch. I don’t remember the price exactly but it wasn’t cheap and it was vetoed immediately by my frugal friend. Vacation or not, JR was on a budget. Maybe next trip.

Leaving the lodge we crossed a pretty log bridge and explored the Native American museum.

It’s very small but they had a series of dioramas that were very well done. The volunteer was well versed in  the history of the area and the museum. Her husband was also there running the gift shop.

After we left the museum we  headed back to the car. At the time it didn’t occur to me that we never walked down to see the actual Jordan’s Pond!

Next stop was my favorite…Thunder Hole.

Judging from the number of people here it’s a favorite of a lot of people. We followed the signs from the parking area out onto rocky cliffs. Stairs had been carved into the rock and there were metal hand rails.

Following these trails over the rocks let you climb right down to the waterline where the surf came crashing.

At the base was a blow-hole. I’d seen these in Hawaii. The water rushes in and as it exits there’s a whoosh and then the sound of “thunder”…hense the name Thunder Hole.

We spent quite awhile wandering over these rocks and listening to the surf crash and the “Thunder” roll.

Then it was back to the car to find the next scenic pull out.