They That Go Down to The Sea In Ships

Posted on August 20, 2013August 20, 2013 by Dusty Roads

About a week ago I found myself with some time on my hands and a beautiful late summer day. Yes, I say late summer because the heat of July was gone and there was a freshness to the air.

As I thought about my options I got the urge to take a drive to Gloucester. I spent many happy hours scuba diving in Gloucester waters when I first moved to Massachusetts. As I moved farther and farther south my jaunts to the Cape Ann area became less and less. Just as I never went to Cape Cod when I lived north of Boston I now avoid the traffic that makes a northbound trip to Cape Ann so difficult.

But this day I felt adventurous so about 11 am I headed out to make the drive north. The fates must have agreed with my decision because there was no traffic and I made excellent time.

The closer I got to Gloucester the more nostalgic I became. I passed the exit to Folly Cove, one of my old dive spots and crossed the bridge over the Annisquam River, a tidal, salt-water estuary.

Eventually I found myself driving along the harbor following the long, narrow Stacy Esplanade. There ahead of me was the symbol of Gloucester, a memorial to all those thousands of Gloucester fisherman lost at sea in the first three centuries of Gloucester’s history.

The Gloucester Fisherman’s Memorial is an eight foot tall bronze statue of a fisherman dressed in oilskins braced at the wheel of his ship.

The deck is sloping, his face rugged. The statue rests on a granite base. A small plaque on the north or street facing side of the base reads “MEMORIAL TO THE GLOUCESTER FISHERMAN, August 23,1923”

On the front or harbor-facing side is the inscription from the 107th Psalm which reads:

I have seen this statue many times over the years and in between I’ve seen many photos, yet it never fails to move me. It speaks to the hugeness of the ocean and the smallness of man who dares to brave its vastness as well as memorialize those that set sail never to return.

Wave Bye Bye

Posted on August 14, 2013August 14, 2013 by Dusty Roads

National Monument to the Forefathers

Posted on August 12, 2013August 12, 2013 by Dusty Roads

What do you think of when someone says Plymouth, MA? I bet Plymouth Rock and the Mayflower come to mind right away. Maybe you think of Pilgrims and Plimouth Plantation. But I wonder if you knew that Plymouth is also home to the world’s largest solid granite monument,the third-tallest statue in the United States?

As you follow RT 44 into Plymouth there’s a little sign pointing to the National Monument to the Forefathers. I have driven by that sign so many times that I’ve lost count. Every time I drive by I say to myself, “I need to check that out sometime.” but I never seem to take the time. Sometimes fate has to take a hand.

The other night I was heading home just about dusk. As I started up RT 44 I ran into a detour for road construction. The detour routed traffic down Allerton St. As I followed the detour signs I turned a corner and my mouth dropped. I was glad I had the camera with me because I was looking at a huge statue. I had no idea the National Monument to the Forefathers was so impressive. I walked up to take a closer look.

The monument, which faces northeast to Plymouth Harbor (and, roughly, towards Plymouth, England), sits in the center of a circular drive. On the main pedestal stands the heroic figure of “Faith” with her right hand pointing toward heaven and her left hand clutching the Bible. Counter-clockwise from the feet of “Faith” are Morality, Law, Education, and Liberty. Each was carved from a solid block of granite, posed in the sitting position upon chairs with a high relief on either side of minor characteristics. Under “Morality” stand “Prophet” and “Evangelist”; under “Law” stand “Justice” and “Mercy”; under “Education” are “Youth” and “Wisdom”; and under “Liberty” stand “Tyranny Overthrown” and “Peace”.

As I explored this colossus and its little park, more and more cars pulled up and stopped. I bet there were more people visiting the monument thanks to the detour than normally visit all summer!

If you’re coming to Plymouth, MA it will only take a minute to stop by this monument and it is definitely worth those few minutes.

A Simple Flower

Posted on August 11, 2013August 11, 2013 by Dusty Roads

I will be the gladdest thing under the sun. I will touch a hundred
flowers and not pick one.
– Edna St. Vincent Millay

Meet Niles

Posted on August 10, 2013August 10, 2013 by Dusty Roads

It was a nice day for a boat ride but everyone wanted to see whales so there was a lot of clock watching going on. Mumbles about how we’d been sailing for an hour and seen nothing and were we going to slow down to look etc.

I was just enjoying the sun and ride. It didn’t seem that long to me. One lady was here from Louisiana and she was bundled up to her eye brows. She thought it was really cold. She was following the temperatures in Louisiana on her phone. She showed me it was 93 there to our 80. She also talked about how crowded Boston was and expensive…$60 for 3 people to have dinner and the MBTA was twice what they pay for the subway. (I didn’t know they had a subway in Louisiana) I’m not sure what town she was from but she did say it was the northern part of the state and her husband and oldest son were both “in oil”. Oh yes she thought gas process here were insane. I have to agree with her on that point.

By now we were nearing the tip of Cape Cod. We could see the Pilgrim Tower in Provincetown off in the distance. This was just about where we were with Capt’n John.

And just as with Capt’n John we spotted some Minke whales first. Then the naturalist said she could see another whale near one of the other boats. She thought it was a finback. Just then right in front of us (12 o’clock as they say) we had a whale surface and blow!

The captain swung the boat left as she broke the surface again and this time I got a quick look. Humpback! Now it was time to wiggle my way to the rail trying not to throw any little ones overboard.

Humpbacks are identified by markings on their tail flukes and this whale was “fluking” regularly. I couldn’t see the side with the markings but the Naturalist on the bridge could and said it was a female named Niles. She has a squiggly white line on her flukes that someone thought looked like the Nile River so she was named Niles.

We hung out with Niles for the rest of the tour watching her dive and feed. At one point she went under the stern and popped up again right next to us pushing her big head out so we got a glimpse of her nose. The Naturalist said she was filter feeding and that action helps drain the water out of her mouth leaving the food behind.

More and more boats began to arrive so reluctantly we had to leave Niles behind. She was the only Humpback we saw and because we had to go so far to find her we didn’t look for any others. It was time to turn around and head back to Boston.

Going back we were heading into the wind so I was glad I brought a hoodie with me. Most of the folks who had been sitting and standing here in the bow with me retired to the enclosed seats now that they’d seen their whale.

As we entered the inner harbor a plane flew low over the boat and came in for a landing at Logan Airport. The runway they came in on ran parallel to us so for a few minutes we paced the huge plane until it turned away to it’s gate.

It’s hard to believe it’s 5:30. The time went really fast. With the Aquarium closed I’m going to head over the Faneuil Hall to kill some time and let the subway clear out a bit before I head home.