Grand Pacific Glacier

There was a time, many years ago, when Glacier Bay wasn’t a bay. It was an ice field. The bay was completely covered by miles of ice. As the ice receded the bay was formed and at the head of the bay we now have the spectacular Margerie Glacier.

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But right next to Margerie Glacier, barely noticed because of its spectacular cousin, is a remnant of that Ice field. The Grand Pacific Glacier lies at the very head of the bay to the right of Margerie as you approach. It looks like land. It looks like dirt. It’s a black line as it reaches the shoreline.

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No pretty blue ice for this granddaddy of glaciers but if it weren’t for this dark and unassuming glacier, we wouldn’t have  the Glacier Bay of today.  Back in the 1600’s  the Grand Pacific Glacier made a final surge, tightening its grip on the area. Before its last push was done the valley was filled with up to 4000 ft. of ice. Then it began its retreat leaving the characteristic U-shaped trench which gradually filled with water giving us the spectacular beauty we see today.

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At this time the Grand Pacific Glacier continues to retreat . As it does it grows Glacier Bay a little each day. Prediction are that by 2025 the Bay may extend another 12 miles.

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As we left Glacier Bay we headed into the open waters of Prince Williams Sound. Our Princess Patter said to keep our eyes open for porpoise and other small dolphins but the more open waters of  Prince William Sound also brought more wave action and the good ship Island Princess began to rock a bit. Not too bad but for someone prone to motion sickness enough to send me to my bunk. Sandy was fine but chose to stick close. I think she used the ship laundry while I rested. My case of sea sickness wasn’t severe, just enough to be uncomfortable.

By dinner time most of the discomfort had passed even though we could still feel the ship’s motion more than I expected from a ship her size. Looking out the windows we could see why. The waves were running  4-6 ft.  They were beautiful and mesmerizing but I didn’t trust myself to watch them for too long. I didn’t want to get queasy again as tonight was lobster night. That’s my favorite  dinner on these cruises.

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I haven’t said too much about the food on board but most of the time  it was quite good and there was always food someplace from the Horizon Grill to the Pizza stand to popcorn by the pool. You certainly don’t go hungry.

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The dinners were excellent, for the most part. We had a wonderful scallop dinner one night and of course the lobster and prawns were out of this world. My Beef Medallions one night were very tough and almost inedible which I found surprising and on our last night I chose the “thanksgiving” dinner of roast turkey. The theme was American but it was obvious that the meal could not have been prepared by an American because it was the worst turkey dinner I have ever had. But that was an exception not the rule.

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By tomorrow we would be in College Fjord so the ship should stabilize as the waters there would once more be protected. I am looking forward to that.

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Alaska Garden Party

I went to a garden party To reminisce with my old friends A chance to share old memories And play our songs again When I got to the garden party They all knew my name No one recognized me I didn’t look the same

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But it’s all right now I learned my lesson well You see, ya can’t please everyone So ya got to please yourself

People came from miles around Everyone was there Yoko brought her walrus

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There was magic in the air ‘N’ over in the corner Much to my surprise Mr Hughes hid in Dylan’s shoes Wearing his disguise

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But it’s all right now I learned my lesson well You see, ya can’t please everyone So ya got to please yourself

Lott-in-dah-dah lot-in-dah-dah-dah

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It was all I could think of…Ricky Nelson’s song Garden Party. Here we were at a Garden Party in of all places, Alaska. Not the first thing you think of when you think about Alaska and we’d certainly come “from miles around” and catching up with my sister included  “reminiscing “.

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But I’m getting ahead of myself. The bus picked us up at the Yukon Suspension Bridge. As we made our way back to Skagway we followed a steep and winding road back through White Horse Pass. We were basically retracing the same path we’d taken on the train up the mountains.

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We arrived at Jewell Gardens & Garden City Glassworks right on time. We stepped off the bus to be escorted right into a little enclosed area decorated like a garden shed.

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We were served tea and salad, then the main course of quiche followed by desert. The tea was good and the salad was awesome. I passed on the quiche and I think I skipped desert as I can’t remember what it was.

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Lunch finished we headed into the gardens themselves. According to our guide the spring weather was about 2 weeks late this year so they were just beginning to plant now. Because of the extended daylight the short growing season translates into gigantic plants. The gardens have been in Skagway since he gold rush when it was one of the few places the miners could get fresh produce.

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One of the vegetables that grows extremely well here is rhubarb. We saw lots of rhubarb beds and vintage pictures lined the  fences showing the huge rhubarb leaves. Rhubarb was the perfect plant because it’s high in vitamin C so kept the miners and residents alike from contracting scurvy over the long dark winter.

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Flower beds and native trees were laid out in what is sure to be a beautiful design once the plants begin to bloom.

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Glass decorations made in their own glass blowing shop  accented the beds.

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And speaking od beds, along the back of the grounds was a series of ramshackle sheds. In each shed was a bed frame with flower seedlings.

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They were meant as a rather whimsical salute to  the shacks the prostitutes used back in the day, the gardens’s “red light” district. 🙂

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Speaking of whimsy, an elaborate  model train was set up and ran all through the grounds. The town and it’s miniatures represented different events in Skagway’s history.

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Last but not least we watched the glass blowing. I’ve seen glass blowing demonstrations before but never one that was so detailed and intricate.

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The finished products were available for purchase in the gift shop.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I60XNolzxuI

Jewell Garden is a certified organic garden. We saw the compost heap to prove it! But seriously, their whole style  is dedicated to  this pure form of gardening and if the quality of the salad we had at lunch is any indication of what organic gardening can produce, well then, keep up the good work!

Haddam Pizza

Following my jaunt around Gillette Castle I decided it was time for lunch. My past experience with off-season dining around Haddam had not been good. So I was up for trying someplace a little different from sub sandwiches or Dunkin’ Donuts.

Right on Saybrook Road before you make the turn to the boat docks was a mostly one story building with the sign Haddam Pizza. When I made my reservation for the Riverquest Eagle and Osprey Boat trip there was an ad for Haddam Pizza on the receipt. It seemed as good a place as any to try for lunch. There were a few cars in the parking lot so I assumed it was open.

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There were 2 doors, neither clearly marked as the main entrance so I used the one that seemed to have a path of sorts to identify it. It led me into the bar area. It’s a pretty nice bar with a nice atmosphere. As I stood looking around the bartender called to me across the room. With a wave of an arm she let me know I was free to sit anywhere.

I was also looking for the lady’s room. The men’s room was right there near the bar where I came in but I didn’t see any ladies room so I turned left down a corridor which opened into another seating area and counter space. The lady’s room was off this area. The 2nd door I had seen apparently opened into this area. People came in and out here to pick up their take out orders.

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To the left off the corridor were booths and a fireplace. I slipped into the first booth and made myself comfortable. The first thing that hit me was the aroma. It was such an amazing mixture of tomato and garlic and cheese, nothing overpowering, it seemed almost to tickle my nose. I ‘ve been in many italian restaurants and pizza shops but this was a more subtle flavorful aroma. It was so nice I had to comment on it to the waitress.

As tempting as the aromas were I chose to try the fish and chips. Haddam is not far from Long Island Sound so I assumed they must get fresh fish.  I continued to look around as I waited for my meal. They weren’t really busy by any means but there was a steady flow of customers, some like me chosing to sit at a booth or table and other picking up.

When my fish arrived it was lightly breaded and fried but there were no greasy puddles on the plate nor did any grease or oil drip out when I cut into the fish. Always a good sign! The fish itself was tender and white . The presentation was attractive too with a curled orange slice and a lettuce leaf along with the lemon wedges and a dash of paperika. The french fries were crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. No complaints there.

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As for the service, the waitress was pleasant and attentive and I willingly left her a 20% tip. I would go back and although the fish was good, the aroma of that sauce has stayed with me and makes me think that next trip I’ll have to try something else. Pizza or an italian dish..not sure which, but I really want to taste that sauce!

What about Skagway?

Port of call # 3 is Skagway.  Skagway is billed as the Gateway to the Klondike; a place where “the romance and excitement of yesteryear linger around every street corner, every bend in the trail”. With that kind of build up it was pretty clear we’d have lots of excursions to choose from. We finally settled on a combo that includes The White Pass & Yukon Railroad and

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The Yukon suspension bridge , ending with a gourmet lunch. The official tour description follows.

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Travel aboard the White Pass & Yukon Route railroad, renowned as the “Scenic Railway of the World.” Against all odds this iron trail was forged through some of North America’s most rugged terrain. Relax in vintage railcars and marvel at the spectacular waterfalls, cliff-hanging turns, tunnels and historic sites you pass on your journey to the summit of the White Pass and beyond to Fraser, British Columbia.

Your trip continues by motorcoach as you travel just a few miles north en route to the Yukon Suspension Bridge. Some of the most magnificent scenery on earth greets you as you step outside, breathe the pristine air, and feel the thrilling sensation of a swaying walkway 57 feet above the churning rapids of the Tutshi River (pronounced TOO-shy). Observe Mother Nature in all her glory from the main platform, then walk through the museum-quality displays that detail the areas unique human and natural history.

Reboard your motorcoach for a scenic drive along the historic Klondike Highway. Discover the area’s amazing landscape from a different perspective as you return to Skagway. Along the way, your guide thrills you with stories of stampeders as you trace their footsteps along Brackett’s Wagon Road, Pitchfork Falls, Dead Horse Gulch and the infamous Tormented Valley. You’ll stop for photo opportunities along the way.

Continue your nature-filled tour to Jewell Gardens, site of pioneer Henry Clark’s family farm. The Clark farm grew produce for the thousands of miners on their way to Dawson City and the Klondike Gold Rush. Stroll the gardens and look for hand-blown glass, created on the premises, artfully placed among nature’s creations and the playful, G-Scale model railroad, built within a model town that looks a lot like Skagway did 100 years ago.

Considered the area’s premier organic flower and vegetable garden enjoy a gourmet lunch overlooking the spectacular blooms. You’ll savor a seasonal soup, organic garden greens and homemade quiche along with a freshly baked dessert. Many ingredients for your meal come from the edible landscape around you. Ample time is provided for you to browse the quaint gift shop before returning to your ship.

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The only problem I have with this tour is that I don’t like quiche. Who would have thought that in the heart of lumberjack country that the main course would be the food that earned the saying “real men don’t eat quiche”. I may not be a man but I haven’t met a quiche that I liked either! I hope the salad is good.

Change

When one door closes another one opens…or so the saying goes. No matter what, change is hard and sometimes scary. These last 3 months have been a roller coaster of emotions; sometimes exhilarating, sometimes sad, sometimes nearly panic only to swing back to excited.

I have worked many places with many people but no other work situation has fostered such close ties. From the dispatchers I shared the office with to the techs in the field it was like a big family. Things didn’t always go smooth. There were disagreements and arguments but there was also laughter, kind words, support and fun and over the years we began to feel like family. This made for great working conditions but now that it’s over there is a lot more emotion than just leaving a job.

This last week has been a concentrated version of the past three months. Everyone seemed to be wearing their feelings on their sleeves, one moment laughing, the next crying and the work demands never let up to give us a chance to come to terms with the “Last Day”.

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This week the  management team ordered pizza, the HR manager brought pizza, even one of the techs spent his own money to bring us pizza. Then the last morning we all brought breakfast food; juice, coffee, sweet rolls, coffee cake, apple fritters, fruit, bagels, muffins…enough food for an army. I couldn’t help thinking it was like a wake or funeral as more food poured in and visitors came by to say their good byes.

At a particularly loud moment it hit me hard. Yes like an Irish Wake without the whiskey and like a funeral after the burial those of us that remained would be…alone.

For all the complaining and groaning that goes on in a normal  day-to-day  give and take, when it was over those of use not going on to Malden would be alone with no place to go on Monday morning. No co-workers to chat with, fight with, laugh with…no work family.

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But then the emotional swing went the other way arching back up to optimism. Look at all the opportunity, a clean slate . This is different because of the bonds made over the last 10 years but the job changing is not. Everything will be fine, not the same but it will be fine.

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It will all work out and the adventure of finding where this path will go is still ahead.